Timing belt and water pump = MISERABLE SEVEN HOUR ORDEAL!

[thecheat]

So my father and I started at 11:30 today doing my timing belt and water pump. I bought the IPD timing kit with the idlers and tensioner. I had bought a water pump later after realizing I should do it at the same time.

We used Ozark Lee's timing belt directions which were quite detailed and we were going along well removing stuff until we got to the accessory belt tensioner. Used a chop saw to cut off about 1.5" of a square cold chisel that was slightly larger than the square hole in the tensioner, then trimmed it down to fit. I don't have any real tidbits to share that weren't outlined in the writeup but I will say that removing things from the "front" of the engine was absolute hell. The water pump was the worst because it had some kind of thread lock compound on long bolts with almost no room to swing the ratchet.

Most of our time was spent on getting the timing marks to line up. We kept getting one tooth off and had to reset the tensioner three times. You can do that fairly quickly if you turn the vise a few degrees till you get resistance, wait a moment, turn again, repeat until it's back in. I suppose some sort of hydraulic goo is in there that needs to squish back in through a baffle or something.

Our final method was lining up the crank marks, turning the intake cam clockwise a little bit to pull back the slack in the belt, then going CCW to line up the intake marks. Then we did the same thing to the exhaust cam, rocking it forward to pull the slack out of the belt and then bringing it back to the two marks. Then we put the tensioner back on, pulled pin, and turned the engine over by hand.

I noticed a few things.. 1. It looks like original Volvo plug with three anodes, are these factory or have they been replaced? Some doofus didn't use anti-sieze in the threads. 2. My water pump bearing was going and the timing idler was wearing out as well. My car has around 140k so it's good I did them now. 3. I need a new accessory belt and tensioner. 4. I have no idea when the timing belt was done but it is the second one and looks pretty good. It was stretched enough to eyeball when held up with the new belt. 5. Oil under the spark plug cover indicates failing PCV system, no?

Butt dyno says that the car is peppier but still smelly at idle - probably the original O2 sensors. The boost gauge has NEVER gone as far over to the right as it did on the way home - which I attribute to the car being more "in tune". The needle was around the 3/4 mark. Car is still a pig off idle, I had no time to adjust the wastegate solenoid.

I could not find Zerex coolant anywhere so I bought the yellow Prestone... I didn't flush the coolant, just replaced what was emptied.

Lee, thanks for the writeup!!! I owe you a beer!

Edit: went out for a quick trip to the store... flooring it gives no wheelspin (isn't there a computer limited boost in 1st gear?), after 2000 RPM the boost lag is gone and the car takes off like it got a kick in the ass and you can hear the turbo spooling up. I used to only go about 1/3 of the way over 0 with the boost gauge but it now maxes out about 3/4 of the way over. I have no idea what that is, .75 bar? Will adjusting the wastegate help with some of the initial lag?

[Ozark Lee]

You can get the Zerex G05 at NAPA - I don't know of any place else in the chain auto parts stores world to get it. In my neck of the woods they normally stock it on the floor. With North American water Prestone won't kill you but I prefer to run the factory spec stuff and G05 meets all of the factory specifications.

Double check you timing marks now that the car has run, you may still be a tooth off on the intake cam - it is a common problem and, while it won't hurt the car mechanically, it will kill performance.

If you are a tooth off be very slow and deliberate while compressing the tensioner before you reinstall it after lining things back up.

The accessory belt tensioner is a real BI-itch. I shelled out the $35.00 for an IPD tool but since I have 4 of these things it was a good investment. MIJ has a writeup in the repair database that details the plumbing parts that you need to buy to make your own from parts from an Ace Hardware store.

...Lee

[thecheat]

Timing seems to be good and power is much higher now that the fresh, unstretched belt is on. I was hoping to get the Zerex from Amazon but it was on 3-5 week backorder. I'm going to do a full flush later in my massive laundry list of little things.

[cn90]

For the serpentine belt tensioner, no need to buy the IPD tool or using coins etc. Here is the $1.00 solution.

1. Go to any hardware store and buy 2 metal plumbing plugs with the square head being 5/8".
Buy the Black Iron (for natural gas piping) or Steel. Usually this is sold as "1-inch plug", which means the thread portion has diameter of 1 inch, but the square end is usually 5/8" in width (bring a ruler and measure this to be sure, but 5/8" is exactly what you need for the Volvo Tensioner).

2. The reason for 2 metal plumbing plugs is that:
- one for glovebox (in case you need it thousands of miles away from home) and
- one for your garage's toolbox.

3. Grind opposite sides of the plug threads flat with either:
- Bench Grinder
- File (yes you can file by hand)
- Belt Sander (turn the belt sander upside down for ease of use).

VolvoTensionerTool.jpg (49.18 KiB) Viewed 12854 times

4. Then use this tool with an adjustable wrench with the wrench on the flattened parts of this plumbing plug.
It works every time for me.
And the fit is perfect in that square hole.

Here is what it looks like. Hope this helps:

[bginty]

I have a 99 s70 T5 with the "CVVT" Cam variable valve timing and I see the marks, but how do you line them up? They do not line up in any certain degree IE: BOTH OF THEM AT 12 0' Clock ..WHat the freak. I am putting the car back together. I am dont get that warm fuzzy feeling that I wont freak it up...........arrrggghhhh . I have all of the parts.... belt, water pump. I just dont want to screw it up... The whole principal is to keep them in sequence, so If I use the marks and keep them aligned with the position of the crank when I put it back together I should be okay , right?

[Pauloil]

I'm sure you did turn 90 degree on way and back the other before uninstall.
would have to search to get the direction.....
did you mark anything in addition to the timing marks? take a picture?

[cknapp58]

Hi I also have a 99 S70 bought it to drive while I replaced the motor in my wife’s 2001 Camry she drove with the oil light on. The car now sits in drive way after the starter went out. I am now replacing starter, pvc system, tons of hoses and now the timing belt, pump idler since I do not know when it was if ever replaced. Boy I was a mechanic for years changed many belts. From what I have read this sounds nuts. I really want to also change all the oils seals. The motor has 200K on it.
1. Should I stay away from the seals.
2. If so can’t I just mark the position of the cams, crank, replace the belt keeping all the slack to be taken up by the idler.
3. Since I also have variable cam timing, will I open up a can of worms pulling the exhaust cam pulley?
4. Is there any good shop manuals out there? I bought the UK Haynes manual that is terrible.
I need to get this thing running, I am driving my 67 mustang on borrowed time.

I don't like geting into a repair with out knowing all aspects and understanding all componets

[precopster]

Hover your mouse over the black/grey bar above where it says Repair Database, you should see a drop down menu where eventually you will find a very good write-up on how to do this work.

Keep us posted.

[tjts1]

A little bit of whiteout before removing the old belt on the 3 pulleys will make your life a heck of a lot easier.

[Red-Arrow]

Its a very satisfying feeling getting the T belt change so well done for saving yourself $600 bucks