Does the Rica softloader clear codes like the MTE/IPD ?
Also I hear once you've paid for the Rica they charge only 100 for each additional tune say you upgrade to a different tune? Is this correct?
From IPD site http://www.ipdusa.com/ipd-Softloader-En ... ls/blog-37
quote:
What systems are accessible through the softloader diagnostics?
ECU (Engine control unit)
TCU (Auto transmission Control Unit)
CEM (Central Electronic Module)
ABS (Anti lock Brake System)
SRS (Supplemental Restraint System /Airbags)
RICA softloader
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
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Call IPD and ask them.
You're not going to leave this killer, ultra low mileage one alone are you?....
You're not going to leave this killer, ultra low mileage one alone are you?....
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
Lol the car is 11yrs I am just seeking to modernize it a bit to current day tech. My mothers a senior citizen and she commented poorly about a few things on the car.
1) she said the engine was lazy and said "isn't this a turbo?"
2) engine vibration
3) said the car was loose and moved side to side to much and either the suspension was bad and need repair or was just crappy and loose from design.
As you can imagine the look of shock in my face and the bump in my throat going down along with the smile on my face thinking I have a great car.
Solution thus far
1) no solution found yet. However gaining traction I order a s60r japan manifold and trying to decide between a Yothers downpipe vs vivaperformance I think the latter is Ferrita. ECU tuning again undecided between ipd/MTE or Rica. May do V70r twin exhaust, Eurosport or Viva I think the last 2 use the same company. Other than a drop in JR filter I am not planning to push this engine any further than that.
2) Posted here thoughts on engine mount. I ordered ALL the engine mounts from the dealer now going to see which one is worn by pulling them out and comparing to the new ones dimension and stiffness.
3) I already have added the IPD sway bars and set the setting to the stiffest rear hole. Need to do drop links and front struts I posted a thread as using Koni FSD in the front.
Thats about it so far. She didn't comment that the braked were soft even though I bleed them already so may do big brake kit but nothing fits under the stock 16" I don't want to go bigger then +1 but I see some brakes don't fit certain wheels. I'm looking at the current choices porsche, brembo, and ap.
I got a quote for the dynaudio speaker upgrade and a cd-901 swap from the dealer.Once these are done I am not doing anything else to this car. I do want to keep it as stock as possible but the car is a bit dated. My mom has seen me in MBZ, bimmers, Porsche etc so this is a change. The economy has hit me as well and its a little tough adjusting to a car that does carry V8 torque and thrust. I'm not into revving the engine unless I need to get on a freeway with a short onramp. I engine just a tap on the pedal and torque doing the work. Less gas less fuss less stress on the engine and i'm not making noise to draw undue attention.
1) she said the engine was lazy and said "isn't this a turbo?"
2) engine vibration
3) said the car was loose and moved side to side to much and either the suspension was bad and need repair or was just crappy and loose from design.
As you can imagine the look of shock in my face and the bump in my throat going down along with the smile on my face thinking I have a great car.
Solution thus far
1) no solution found yet. However gaining traction I order a s60r japan manifold and trying to decide between a Yothers downpipe vs vivaperformance I think the latter is Ferrita. ECU tuning again undecided between ipd/MTE or Rica. May do V70r twin exhaust, Eurosport or Viva I think the last 2 use the same company. Other than a drop in JR filter I am not planning to push this engine any further than that.
2) Posted here thoughts on engine mount. I ordered ALL the engine mounts from the dealer now going to see which one is worn by pulling them out and comparing to the new ones dimension and stiffness.
3) I already have added the IPD sway bars and set the setting to the stiffest rear hole. Need to do drop links and front struts I posted a thread as using Koni FSD in the front.
Thats about it so far. She didn't comment that the braked were soft even though I bleed them already so may do big brake kit but nothing fits under the stock 16" I don't want to go bigger then +1 but I see some brakes don't fit certain wheels. I'm looking at the current choices porsche, brembo, and ap.
I got a quote for the dynaudio speaker upgrade and a cd-901 swap from the dealer.Once these are done I am not doing anything else to this car. I do want to keep it as stock as possible but the car is a bit dated. My mom has seen me in MBZ, bimmers, Porsche etc so this is a change. The economy has hit me as well and its a little tough adjusting to a car that does carry V8 torque and thrust. I'm not into revving the engine unless I need to get on a freeway with a short onramp. I engine just a tap on the pedal and torque doing the work. Less gas less fuss less stress on the engine and i'm not making noise to draw undue attention.
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kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
- Joined: 31 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T AWD
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
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Comments:
1) Something is wrong. A 2.4T should NOT feel "lazy". I wouldn't mess with the downpipe yet because it changes the turbo behavior, and the ECU remap is almost mandatory. A dual cat-back will be a more gentle improvement.
2) Ditto. Vibration could mean weak ignition, worn mounts, or maybe bearings or inner CV joints. You said mounts, did you look at that two-piece lower transmission mount? That's a common cause of vibration at idle. Is there a pattern to when it does and doesn't vibrate?
3) Ditto. This thing should corner like it's on rails, and inspire confidence in every situation. From the description, my first suspect would be the control arms (ball joints and bushings, but it's a one piece assembly), and next the outer tie rods. I'd consider backing off the anti-roll stiffness; the car's passive rear steering depends on body roll. The drop links are a frequent wear-out item, it almost seems designed to be the weakest link. My cousin advocates sticking with OE so they do continue to be the first item to wear out - they're easy to replace. Alternately, the IPD HD's are popular, and VST has an adjustable set.
Brakes. Ditto. Look for worn lines, and maybe replace the fluid entirely.
You do have a great car, just needs a little maintenance. I would choose that wagon over any MBZ, BMW, or Porsche on the road, even if you gave it to me. Just wait till you get it healthy and take it through some twisties with a heavy foot - you'll see what I mean.
1) Something is wrong. A 2.4T should NOT feel "lazy". I wouldn't mess with the downpipe yet because it changes the turbo behavior, and the ECU remap is almost mandatory. A dual cat-back will be a more gentle improvement.
2) Ditto. Vibration could mean weak ignition, worn mounts, or maybe bearings or inner CV joints. You said mounts, did you look at that two-piece lower transmission mount? That's a common cause of vibration at idle. Is there a pattern to when it does and doesn't vibrate?
3) Ditto. This thing should corner like it's on rails, and inspire confidence in every situation. From the description, my first suspect would be the control arms (ball joints and bushings, but it's a one piece assembly), and next the outer tie rods. I'd consider backing off the anti-roll stiffness; the car's passive rear steering depends on body roll. The drop links are a frequent wear-out item, it almost seems designed to be the weakest link. My cousin advocates sticking with OE so they do continue to be the first item to wear out - they're easy to replace. Alternately, the IPD HD's are popular, and VST has an adjustable set.
Brakes. Ditto. Look for worn lines, and maybe replace the fluid entirely.
You do have a great car, just needs a little maintenance. I would choose that wagon over any MBZ, BMW, or Porsche on the road, even if you gave it to me. Just wait till you get it healthy and take it through some twisties with a heavy foot - you'll see what I mean.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
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The XC doesn't have the passive rear steering but even one with bad ball joints and lethargic motor was a ton of fun to toss around on some back roads. Off the line the XC doesn't feel lazy but as it revs the power runs out quickly. The wagon with AWD weighs a lot more than the sedan versions.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
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jblackburn, good to know. I'd thought all the 1st gen vehicles had it.
+1 about being fun to toss around anyway, it can't handle _that_ different than an 850, can it?
+1 about being fun to toss around anyway, it can't handle _that_ different than an 850, can it?
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
I had it inspected by a very well know volvo shop as part of the pre-purchase. All he found was cracked upper mount, said trans fluid was a bit brown and I'm due for a timing belt as I've crossed the 10yrs vs milage.
Engine is solid I've checked all 5 coils no cracks wires are good no abrasion through the plastic sleeving. I just put on new Volvo spark plugs as part of my stage 0. I guess I will have to hook up a boost gauge and make sure I have full boost and no leaks anywhere. I just ordered an PLT obd2 gauge just now that should trick and show me engine diagnostic. But would it throw a code if it didn't sense enough boost? Then that should have shown in pre-purchase inspection and I didn't have an codes in memory.
The vibration is at idle and I can hear a roar inside the car when I accelerate its gone. So thats why I was thinking motor mounts. I will replace the lower trans mount first and see what that does.
Previous owner would have to have been an autocross champ to wear out the ball joints or control arm bushings and quite frankly he's to old and in a home now so thats is not a possibility. But in all sincerity the car swayed a lot around the corners inspection all I could see is one side the back of the drop link there is a white plastic seal at the back of the joint that seals the cover that was pushing out. Bushings looked good all around when I looked from myself no compression and all were symmetrical. Shocks had .25 bounce to them pushing on the bumper. It just didn't inspire confidence and the Volvo mech said this car was great and typical of the breed so I don't know. Its nice now with the IPD sway bars I haven't driven any other v70 to know better. Cj Yothers is about a 20min drive I'm going there tomorrow for this first time to pick up an s60r manifold but I think his car is also modified.
The brakes I power flushed using a complete liter. The pads look 80-90% and no discoloration of the rotors or any unusual wear. The lines shouldn't be bad although 11yrs old it was always garaged the paint and interior looks as new. But I can throw so new lines on and see what happens.
yeah +1 for the back roads I live in suburbia and we have a lot of canyons I like to use them rather than the freeways as I have to make a 90deg and use 2 highways were as if I do the canyons Its a direct cut through and also avoid the parking lot we call freeways around here. Just have to watch out for the motor cops as their hard to sport and they canyon varied from 45-55 and they get you right at the change.
Engine is solid I've checked all 5 coils no cracks wires are good no abrasion through the plastic sleeving. I just put on new Volvo spark plugs as part of my stage 0. I guess I will have to hook up a boost gauge and make sure I have full boost and no leaks anywhere. I just ordered an PLT obd2 gauge just now that should trick and show me engine diagnostic. But would it throw a code if it didn't sense enough boost? Then that should have shown in pre-purchase inspection and I didn't have an codes in memory.
The vibration is at idle and I can hear a roar inside the car when I accelerate its gone. So thats why I was thinking motor mounts. I will replace the lower trans mount first and see what that does.
Previous owner would have to have been an autocross champ to wear out the ball joints or control arm bushings and quite frankly he's to old and in a home now so thats is not a possibility. But in all sincerity the car swayed a lot around the corners inspection all I could see is one side the back of the drop link there is a white plastic seal at the back of the joint that seals the cover that was pushing out. Bushings looked good all around when I looked from myself no compression and all were symmetrical. Shocks had .25 bounce to them pushing on the bumper. It just didn't inspire confidence and the Volvo mech said this car was great and typical of the breed so I don't know. Its nice now with the IPD sway bars I haven't driven any other v70 to know better. Cj Yothers is about a 20min drive I'm going there tomorrow for this first time to pick up an s60r manifold but I think his car is also modified.
The brakes I power flushed using a complete liter. The pads look 80-90% and no discoloration of the rotors or any unusual wear. The lines shouldn't be bad although 11yrs old it was always garaged the paint and interior looks as new. But I can throw so new lines on and see what happens.
yeah +1 for the back roads I live in suburbia and we have a lot of canyons I like to use them rather than the freeways as I have to make a 90deg and use 2 highways were as if I do the canyons Its a direct cut through and also avoid the parking lot we call freeways around here. Just have to watch out for the motor cops as their hard to sport and they canyon varied from 45-55 and they get you right at the change.
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