DIM failure on 02 V70T5 Any options?

BillLeBob · Post by **BillLeBob** » 04 May 2010, 19:16

The DIM in my v70 T5M is conking out. It workes when it feels like it with no real rhyme or reason to why it cuts out. I can tap on the cluster and make it go out though. The wires under the seat seem fine, with no damage. What are my options?
Dealer is last on my list. I know that a used cluster will physically work, but the fun comes when it it hooked up to the computer at the dealer... right? Assuming my car never hits the dealer service bay... would a used cluster work? Could I swap back in the dud cluster on the off chance I would need to go to the dealer? Does anyone rebuild DIM's? I'm a perfectly good home wrench, so service short of stuff like this is no problem.

I would never attemp to sell the car with a used cluster in it, I plan on keeping the car anyway. It is worthless on trade yet still full of miles so I'm planning on wearing it out.

Big first post from a new guy so thanks in advance.

stilito · Post by **stilito** » 04 May 2010, 21:11

I am having this same issue on my '02 S60 I am also very interested in some solutions.

I did come across this: http://www.volvo-forums.com/t13321-dash ... oblems.htm but I am not sure that I believe that it's the voltage regulator.

ChrisatXeMODeX · Post by **ChrisatXeMODeX** » 05 May 2010, 06:46

We provide the complete DIM remanufacturing and upgrade service. Once completed just plug it back in, no software reloads needed. http://xemodex.com/xemodex_016.htm

BillLeBob · Post by **BillLeBob** » 05 May 2010, 07:09

^^^ Now that is what I was hoping for.

Let me clarify my issue just a bit more to make sure.

I have the SRS light when the cluster is lit. Clock is dead all the time. When the DIM goes dark, I loose turn signals, power window controls and steering wheel controls until the car is restarted, then everything but the DIM works ( until it has sat for a while). Is this typical too?

ChrisatXeMODeX · Post by **ChrisatXeMODeX** » 05 May 2010, 07:38

Bad DIM can shot down SWM steering wheel module, when this happens all you steering controls are inactive. Mind you CEM multifunction could exhibit the same symptoms.
We can however fully activate your DIM on CAN network and test to see whether DIM is at fault. And yes we can fix CEM too.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 05 May 2010, 09:50

Hello , I recommend going over to volvo-forums and reading about this. Adding a heat sink and tales of miniature lamp replacement round out the variations of and attack plans for DIM problems. A good informative thread. I'm holding my breath since my '02 now has 108K. The cluster seems to come out easily. No one mentioned it being difficult to remove in 6 pages of DIM talk. Kira

2001VolvoXC70 · Post by **2001VolvoXC70** » 22 Mar 2011, 09:35

@ billiebob and stilito...

What was the final outcome of your dim problems. How did you diagnose and did you do a rebuild or a swap? Any additional programming needed?

billr99 · Post by **billr99** » 23 Mar 2011, 07:02

You can also do a used DIM but there are conditions and caveats to that process. VolvoXC.com also has that info as I have documented the process I went thru there. Do a search on "DIM" and it should come up.

Good luck,

Bill

turbovagen · Post by **turbovagen** » 08 Apr 2011, 10:58

new DIM is 750, vs the 400/500 to repair it.

Post by **IdahoBob** » 13 Apr 2011, 21:43

The DIM, Volvo's name for the instrument cluster is an easy replace, as are the bulbs....

You only need two simple tools and about 10 mintues to get the DIM out.
Drop the steering wheel to its lowest angle.
There are 6 torx screws you'll need to remove. Look in your tool roll, the one Volvo shipped strapped down with your spare (at least on some US models). Some of them have the proper torx headed driver in them (my '02 S80 does, but neither the '02 or '04 XC70 do). If not, dig the one out of your workbench. look up at the top of the black plastic shroud/fairing thing between the actual bezel of the DIM (the "glass" or "plastic" you're looking though to see the instruments). See those two square-ish black platic thing up top?...pop them out by prying the from the streering wheel side, with a flat screwdriver. Remove the torx screw behind each. Sort of twist, pull, turn, angle that fairing thing out of the way and set it somewhere it won't get scratched up...as soon as you get it out, you'll realize how easy it is to scratch it...
Look around the edges of the DIM, at about 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock: 4 more torx screws, same size, interchangeble with the two you already took out. Use your really skinny fingers (or a magnetized torx driver) to hold these things as you pull them out. If you drop one, you won't absolutely need to put it back (three will hold the DIM in just fine), but it will roll around down in the dash until you re-do this.
After you get the screws out, pull the right side forward (pax side, US models) and tilt slightly down.
See that green plug in the back (there is no "cable" to break, it's electric), squeeze the tiny latch onthe top of the green plug and pull it out.
Tilt, turn, slowly pull, and presto, you have the DIM in your lap.
There are two or three differnet size bulbs screwed into the back. My local auto parts store sells the really small ones, but they're about $2.50 each. Watch out if trying to figure out which these are...the ones that work are smaller diameter than most of the bulbs on the store's shelf...the dealer probably has these too, but I'm planning on feeding the kids' reliably, so try to avoid the dealer and his prices...Don't buy bulbs yet, though. See below.
The DIM's seem to die around 180-220K miles (My S80's went at 206K miles). If needles just droped dead and won't budge, or maybe sometimes they jump up and work for a while, then die again, or you have stripes of dead lights and gauges, it sounds like new DIM time.
The dealer wanted $1400 for a new DIM, and told me that a rebuild and or used one would not work. My local indie shop, the good guy every raves about, said $400 for a rebuild, and that a used one would not work. I went to Crazy Akbahr's, my local parts guy, and bought a used one for $79, plugged it in, and it works fine. I scalped out the best bulbs and bezel between the dead one and the used one, and I'm good, done, fixed, etc.
Here's the deal though...Volvo seems to have rev'ed the DIM's just about everytime shift ended or the queen came through town, so you need to get one that's the proper part number for your car, or it will not work. I put in one that was the wrong part number first, and got nada, just black screen. Take yours into the junk yard and show them the number that needs to be matched. The S60, V70, XC70 & S80 all used the same DIM, as long as you get the proper part number for your car. Look at the paper label on the top. The critical numebr, on mine is the code: "YZK P/No 69294-660T" I tried a "-600T" first and it did not work. Hold out until you get the one that matches your ride. You sometiimes see them on eBay, but beware sellers who won't show you a picture of the part number label.
Oh, and some of the writers tell you that the on-board computers in your car will re-set the DIM to the higher of the mileage on your car or on the replacement DIM...didn't happen to me. My car now has 20K less miles than before I swapped the DIM, which means I gotta rememebr this come timing belt changes, etc., etc.
Once you start swapping light bulbs, you may realize you had one or two out and didn't notice. You may want to plug it in and look while it's dark outside, before screwing the whole thing back together...verify that all bulbs are good before re-assembling.
One other writer wrote in that you can heat up the main chip inside the DIM, using a heat gun (something hotter than a blow dryer, like the one you use to bubble off house paint) and re-flow broken solder joints to make yours work. If it does, tell us. I've looked at these under a microscope, and you can see cracks in the solder lines of all used car electronics, so this may be the quick and best fix for you.

Happy Motoring,
Idaho Bob