Tutorial C70 Conv. 1999 Change Rear Shocks & Mounts

[SeeSeventy]

(I am an amateur mechanic and enjoy working on my own car. By attempting to make any of these repairs yourself, you expressly and impliedly assume all responsibility for all damages that may occur as a result. I assume no liability for injury due to making these repairs yourself. This tutorial is for your education and entertainment only and is not intended to be a substitute for a professional repair on your vehicle.)

Replacing the rear shocks and shock mounts is more difficult than the front struts. The difficulty comes as a result of working in tight space with little room to turn wrenches. Having the correct Volvo (or aftermarket) tools will make this a very much easier.

First, remove the bottom cushion of the rear seat by tugging upward on the front edge of the bottom cushion. The metal hook/loop attached to the cushion will snap apart from the black plastic clip that is attached to the seat frame.

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Here's what it should look like with the bottom cushion out (note that the headrests have already been pulled out - I explain how to remove them in the next step):

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Pull the headrests straight upward and they will come out of their white plastic sleeves (hidden in the back rest).

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To remove the back cushion, look in the bottom outside corners of the cushion (next to the female seat belt coupler). Remove the one both on each mount. The nut is welded into the metal car body so don't worry about holding the nut with a wrench.

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Here's what it will look like with the backrest cushion out:

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Now unscrew the speakers using a star socket (provided with your Volvo emergency tool kit). Carefully protect the speaker wires (wrap with a shop rag) as you rest the speakers on the base of the seat frame (the edges of the metal are sharp). The speakers are soldered to the wires as opposed to detachable clips.

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The shock mount is located behind the speakers in a corner:

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Next, go under the car (make sure the car is securely on jack stands and not just on a jack). Unbolt the domed locking nut from the bottom of the shock and remove the washer. Pull the shock away from the bolt. (The bolt is welded to the suspension arm so don't worry about having to hold the bolt with a wrench).

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Now the shock should be completely free from the bottom suspension trailer arm. You will be able to wiggle it around because the shock mount at the top has rubber bushings. The shock will not fall down though because it is still bolted to the upper shock mount.

At this point, you can save a ton of time, headache and sore hands by having the specialized Volvo tools that hold the top of the shock bolt while unscrewing the bolt that secures the shock to the top mount (all in a very tight space). I did not have those tools so I used vice grips and an open end wrench.

I first removed the black plastic boxes (in this picture hanging next to the speaker)that are bolted to the inside of the car body and in your way:

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Here's what unbolting the shock mounts looks like:

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Success! The nut is off the bolt, the shock fell down to the garage floor, and the old mount is sitting there waiting to be easily unbolted. The nuts are welded to the body of the car so you do not have to worry about holding the nut with a wrench on the other side.

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Now it's time to bolt on the new shock mount (I don't have a picture of the newly installed shock mount so use your imagination.

For all of the following nuts and bolts that I reinstalled, I used blue thread locker. I just used it out of common sense - I am not saying whether it is recommended or not.

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Get your new shock out of the box and remove the nut that is included with your new shock (nut is off in this picture). I bought Bilstien TCs and I'm very happy that I did. The Bilstiens came with a top nut that has a locking feature but I also used the blue thread locker gel. Make sure to leave the included washer on the shock top bolt:

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Get under the car and guide the shock up into the shock well - here is a view looking up with the new shock mount installed:

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Make sure that the washer is on the bolt (washer will be positioned under the shock mount) and make sure that you watch the top bolt on the shock enter into the new shock mount hole:

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Now that the bolt has traveled into the shock mount hole, see if you can insert the bottom of the shock onto the suspension arm bolt. If you cannot, you will have to use a jack to raise the suspension arm high enough to allow the shock to slide onto the bolt.

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Put some blue thread locker on the domed locking nut. Replace the washer (OK is it has a little rubber on it from previous shock) and then attach and secure the domed locking nut. I don't have the exact specs but I tightened the nut to about 80nm torque.

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Now go back up into the car and secure the top nut using blue thread locker. Again, the correct tools will make securing the top nut on the top bolt easier but it can be done any way with other tools. I don't know the specs but I tightened to about 50-60 nm torque.

After securing the top nut on the top bolt, get out and lower the car off the jackstands so that the full weight of the car is on the suspension. Now check the nuts on the top bolts to make sure that there is no gap between the bottom of the nut and the top of the metal cup inside the shock mount. There should be no gap as a result of you torquing the nut to 60 nm but this is just another check to make sure the shock is secure to the mount. Re-torque to 60 nm or so just to make sure.

Now the shock is installed and you have to start putting the back seat together. Rebolt the black plastic box and the speaker. Then install the backrest and the head rests. Last, snap the bottom cushion back into the clips in the seat frame.

Now you are done.

(I don't know why this last picture is here below?!)

[FCPEURO]

Awesome write-up!!! I always wondered where those rear shock mounts were hiding.

[writer100]

Nice write up. How do you like the new Bilstein TC's?

[precopster]

It is certainly an achievable DIY repair. Well done!!

Just did this on the rear of the 850 wagon with lowering springs from FCP and Bilstein TCs.

Did you have clearance to leave the shock absorber bolted to the rubber mount and pull it up through the hole by undoing just the two 12mm bolts?? By compressing the shock to full compression it would have been much shorter and this may have been possible. This is how I did it on the 850 wagon which meant I could just throw the hole thing out without having to separate it from the mount, however clearance on the C70 coupe looks darn tight.

Then I did all the fiddly holding of the top of the shock with a vice while I tightened the single shock bolt. Then I just dropped the whole thing down through the hole.

One of the shock mounts was broken in half. The car is firm but handles like a dream; at least in the rear. Front is next.

[SeeSeventy]

Awesome write-up!!! I always wondered where those rear shock mounts were hiding.

thanks for your great products and service!

[SeeSeventy]

Nice write up. How do you like the new Bilstein TC's?

I love the Bilstien TCs - they are perfect, exactly what i wanted in the ride. Between the new shocks, struts, and mounts, it rides better than brand new. It it was relatively easy to replace everything: one night in the garage for the rear two and the next night in the garage for the front struts.

[SeeSeventy]

It is certainly an achievable DIY repair. Well done!!

Just did this on the rear of the 850 wagon with lowering springs from FCP and Bilstein TCs.

Did you have clearance to leave the shock absorber bolted to the rubber mount and pull it up through the hole by undoing just the two 12mm bolts?? By compressing the shock to full compression it would have been much shorter and this may have been possible. This is how I did it on the 850 wagon which meant I could just throw the hole thing out without having to separate it from the mount, however clearance on the C70 coupe looks darn tight.

Then I did all the fiddly holding of the top of the shock with a vice while I tightened the single shock bolt. Then I just dropped the whole thing down through the hole.

One of the shock mounts was broken in half. The car is firm but handles like a dream; at least in the rear. Front is next.

I like your idea of compressing the shock and loosening the two 12mms to bring it up through the top (behind the rear seat). However, as you mentioned, it is way too tight in that speaker hole. Actually, it think that is so tight in there that it is impossible to get the shock out through there. I would have loved to have been able to put the mounts onto the shock on a vice as opposed to installing them with my arms reaching into those speaker holes! Best wishes on the front struts - they are pretty easy and worth the effort!

[Cactuslegs]

I noticed this is on a convertable and that the speakers are behind the seats instead of on the rear dash like how they are on the coupe, do you think the strut mount is still behind the seat on the coupes?

[jimmy57]

the rear shock upper mounts are in the same place but on the coupe you don't have the top storage box dropped down in the way so access through the trunk is possible.

[jenkinskg]

This helped me see how seat back was removed
was able to run a wire and see about putting sub in