The right side display on the S60 went out, coincidentally while the trans was being worked on. Would this be related to that? The shop says no, either a loose cable behind the dash or a bulb out.
Has anyone gone through this? Just wondering what I should expect / plan for before I rip the dash out. We need the car for a road trip tomorrow evening so I want to be ready before I pull it apart.
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jimmy57
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I can think of nothing the trans work would have to do with the right side only going out. If they did something wrong like jumping it off and reversing cables the whole DIM would be off.
DIM's have been failing according to the posts here on occasion so I think the event is unrelated.
DIM's have been failing according to the posts here on occasion so I think the event is unrelated.
It doesn't have a trip computer so there's no knob. It shows gear, time, and temperature.
I guess it could be a bulb or a wire loose. How difficult is it to pull a cluster?
I guess it could be a bulb or a wire loose. How difficult is it to pull a cluster?
Titan LE : S60 2.4t : 91 325i : Spec E30 #33
Der, it's just a bulb. This car eats bulbs.
Any links to where I can buy the bulbs the car uses in the dash? IPD doesn't have one listed. I need the bulbs on the center stack and apparently I'm going to be rebuilding the cluster too.
Any links to where I can buy the bulbs the car uses in the dash? IPD doesn't have one listed. I need the bulbs on the center stack and apparently I'm going to be rebuilding the cluster too.
Titan LE : S60 2.4t : 91 325i : Spec E30 #33
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IdahoBob
- Posts: 97
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The DIM, Volvo's name for the instrument cluster is an easy replace, as are the bulbs....
You only need two simple tools and about 10 mintues to get the DIM out.
Drop the steering wheel to its lowest angle.
There are 6 torx screws you'll need to remove. Look in your tool roll, the one Volvo shipped strapped down with your spare (at least on some US models). Some of them have the proper torx headed driver in them (my '02 S80 does, but neither the '02 or '04 XC70 do). If not, dig the one out of your workbench. look up at the top of the black plastic shroud/fairing thing between the actual bezel of the DIM (the "glass" or "plastic" you're looking though to see the instruments). See those two square-ish black platic thing up top?...pop them out by prying the from the streering wheel side, with a flat screwdriver. Remove the torx screw behind each. Sort of twist, pull, turn, angle that fairing thing out of the way and set it somewhere it won't get scratched up...as soon as you get it out, you'll realize how easy it is to scratch it...
Look around the edges of the DIM, at about 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock: 4 more torx screws, same size, interchangeble with the two you already took out. Use your really skinny fingers (or a magnetized torx driver) to hold these things as you pull them out. If you drop one, you won't absolutely need to put it back (three will hold the DIM in just fine), but it will roll around down in the dash until you re-do this.
After you get the screws out, pull the right side forward (pax side, US models) and tilt slightly down.
See that green plug in the back (there is no "cable" to break, it's electric), squeeze the tiny latch onthe top of the green plug and pull it out.
Tilt, turn, slowly pull, and presto, you have the DIM in your lap.
There are two or three differnet size bulbs screwed into the back. My local auto parts store sells the really small ones, but they're about $2.50 each. Watch out if trying to figure out which these are...the ones that work are smaller diameter than most of the bulbs on the store's shelf...the dealer probably has these too, but I'm planning on feeding the kids' reliably, so try to avoid the dealer and his prices...Don't buy bulbs yet, though. See below.
The DIM's seem to die around 180-220K miles (My S80's went at 206K miles). If needles just droped dead and won't budge, or maybe sometimes they jump up and work for a while, then die again, or you have stripes of dead lights and gauges, it sounds like new DIM time.
The dealer wanted $1400 for a new DIM, and told me that a rebuild and or used one would not work. My local indie shop, the good guy every raves about, said $400 for a rebuild, and that a used one would not work. I went to Crazy Akbahr's, my local parts guy, and bought a used one for $79, plugged it in, and it works fine. I scalped out the best bulbs and bezel between the dead one and the used one, and I'm good, done, fixed, etc.
Here's the deal though...Volvo seems to have rev'ed the DIM's just about everytime shift ended or the queen came through town, so you need to get one that's the proper part number for your car, or it will not work. I put in one that was the wrong part number first, and got nada, just black screen. Take yours into the junk yard and show them the number that needs to be matched. The S60, V70, XC70 & S80 all used the same DIM, as long as you get the proper part number for your car. Look at the paper label on the top. The critical numebr, on mine is the code: "YZK P/No 69294-660T" I tried a "-600T" first and it did not work. Hold out until you get the one that matches your ride. You sometiimes see them on eBay, but beware sellers who won't show you a picture of the part number label.
Oh, and some of the writers tell you that the on-board computers in your car will re-set the DIM to the higher of the mileage on your car or on the replacement DIM...didn't happen to me. My car now has 20K less miles than before I swapped the DIM, which means I gotta rememebr this come timing belt changes, etc., etc.
Once you start swapping light bulbs, you may realize you had one or two out and didn't notice. You may want to plug it in and look while it's dark outside, before screwing the whole thing back together...verify that all bulbs are good before re-assembling.
One other writer wrote in that you can heat up the main chip inside the DIM, using a heat gun (something hotter than a blow dryer, like the one you use to bubble off house paint) and re-flow broken solder joints to make yours work. If it does, tell us. I've looked at these under a microscope, and you can see cracks in the solder lines of all used car electronics, so this may be the quick and best fix for you.
Happy Motoring,
Idaho Bob
You only need two simple tools and about 10 mintues to get the DIM out.
Drop the steering wheel to its lowest angle.
There are 6 torx screws you'll need to remove. Look in your tool roll, the one Volvo shipped strapped down with your spare (at least on some US models). Some of them have the proper torx headed driver in them (my '02 S80 does, but neither the '02 or '04 XC70 do). If not, dig the one out of your workbench. look up at the top of the black plastic shroud/fairing thing between the actual bezel of the DIM (the "glass" or "plastic" you're looking though to see the instruments). See those two square-ish black platic thing up top?...pop them out by prying the from the streering wheel side, with a flat screwdriver. Remove the torx screw behind each. Sort of twist, pull, turn, angle that fairing thing out of the way and set it somewhere it won't get scratched up...as soon as you get it out, you'll realize how easy it is to scratch it...
Look around the edges of the DIM, at about 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock: 4 more torx screws, same size, interchangeble with the two you already took out. Use your really skinny fingers (or a magnetized torx driver) to hold these things as you pull them out. If you drop one, you won't absolutely need to put it back (three will hold the DIM in just fine), but it will roll around down in the dash until you re-do this.
After you get the screws out, pull the right side forward (pax side, US models) and tilt slightly down.
See that green plug in the back (there is no "cable" to break, it's electric), squeeze the tiny latch onthe top of the green plug and pull it out.
Tilt, turn, slowly pull, and presto, you have the DIM in your lap.
There are two or three differnet size bulbs screwed into the back. My local auto parts store sells the really small ones, but they're about $2.50 each. Watch out if trying to figure out which these are...the ones that work are smaller diameter than most of the bulbs on the store's shelf...the dealer probably has these too, but I'm planning on feeding the kids' reliably, so try to avoid the dealer and his prices...Don't buy bulbs yet, though. See below.
The DIM's seem to die around 180-220K miles (My S80's went at 206K miles). If needles just droped dead and won't budge, or maybe sometimes they jump up and work for a while, then die again, or you have stripes of dead lights and gauges, it sounds like new DIM time.
The dealer wanted $1400 for a new DIM, and told me that a rebuild and or used one would not work. My local indie shop, the good guy every raves about, said $400 for a rebuild, and that a used one would not work. I went to Crazy Akbahr's, my local parts guy, and bought a used one for $79, plugged it in, and it works fine. I scalped out the best bulbs and bezel between the dead one and the used one, and I'm good, done, fixed, etc.
Here's the deal though...Volvo seems to have rev'ed the DIM's just about everytime shift ended or the queen came through town, so you need to get one that's the proper part number for your car, or it will not work. I put in one that was the wrong part number first, and got nada, just black screen. Take yours into the junk yard and show them the number that needs to be matched. The S60, V70, XC70 & S80 all used the same DIM, as long as you get the proper part number for your car. Look at the paper label on the top. The critical numebr, on mine is the code: "YZK P/No 69294-660T" I tried a "-600T" first and it did not work. Hold out until you get the one that matches your ride. You sometiimes see them on eBay, but beware sellers who won't show you a picture of the part number label.
Oh, and some of the writers tell you that the on-board computers in your car will re-set the DIM to the higher of the mileage on your car or on the replacement DIM...didn't happen to me. My car now has 20K less miles than before I swapped the DIM, which means I gotta rememebr this come timing belt changes, etc., etc.
Once you start swapping light bulbs, you may realize you had one or two out and didn't notice. You may want to plug it in and look while it's dark outside, before screwing the whole thing back together...verify that all bulbs are good before re-assembling.
One other writer wrote in that you can heat up the main chip inside the DIM, using a heat gun (something hotter than a blow dryer, like the one you use to bubble off house paint) and re-flow broken solder joints to make yours work. If it does, tell us. I've looked at these under a microscope, and you can see cracks in the solder lines of all used car electronics, so this may be the quick and best fix for you.
Happy Motoring,
Idaho Bob
Idaho Bob
67, 71, 85, 98 wagons (sold)
78 coupe (gave to mechanic, thanks!)
02, 04 (X2) & 08 XC70's
before that: 67 Sunbeam, several pre-68 VW's, '41 Buick, '42 Ford Jeep, and some boring stuff
67, 71, 85, 98 wagons (sold)
78 coupe (gave to mechanic, thanks!)
02, 04 (X2) & 08 XC70's
before that: 67 Sunbeam, several pre-68 VW's, '41 Buick, '42 Ford Jeep, and some boring stuff
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