I have a 1995 850 Volvo turbo wagon that is having a slow start when cranked to start and is getting worse (slower to start like a dying battery. Checked with parts store to check but was told that alternator is only giving 30 cranking amps and battery was still good. Connections are tight and no loose wires exposed.
Is this a starter problem? Just wanted to know before I take it in and just order one. Cost is $134.99 with core. Any tips or ideas out there? New to the forum, so I hope this was not too long of an explanation.
Slow start when cranked
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Ozark Lee
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Welcome to MVS,
If the alternator is only putting out 30 Amps on a load test then it is the alternator that you need to be looking at, not the starter.
...Lee
If the alternator is only putting out 30 Amps on a load test then it is the alternator that you need to be looking at, not the starter.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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JRL
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BATTERY CABLES
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
I think you are on to something Lee. According to Volvo's alternator specs it should be max. of 80 cranking amps. Any Ideas out there on where I can find some diagrams or pictures on how to remove the alternator? There's the pesky power steering reservoir on top. It still starts, but I wouldn't trust it to take me up the mountains.
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jblackburn
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I'd pull the alternator out and bench test it before spending the $ for a new one.
As JRL said, the battery cables on these cars get overloaded very easily with age. Your positive cables may be crapping out under load and causing the rest of the electrical systems in the car to be starved for power.
As JRL said, the battery cables on these cars get overloaded very easily with age. Your positive cables may be crapping out under load and causing the rest of the electrical systems in the car to be starved for power.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
I've been busy with work (12 hr shifts)to get a good and proper turn on the wrench. I went with the starter as the culprit. Mainly because there is a mechanic that works on foreign cars down the street and talking to you guys.
The tutorials available on this site are priceless along with a little digital camera that I took pictures with to see where all the bolts were located that needed removed. I had to remove the fan and shroud, turbo hoses, battery, air filter housing and several connections.
There is only two bolts that hold the starter, but if you don't remove the bolt that holds the bracket, it won't budge. That is where the fan and shroud removal was needed for to get a good look at the bolt and get a socket down there. Once disconnected took it to autozone and had it tested. It failed all three tests. Ordered a starter and now I just need to put all of the guts back together.
By the way, the two nuts that go into the starter bracket are different from the original starter so I will probably have to go to a hardware store to get some. All in all, it wasn't too hard of a job. Maybe a 4 out of 10. I kind of would like to replace some of the radiator hoses that wrap around the block towards the bottom and around the motor, but I can't wait to get it back together and cruise. Thanks for all the advise guys.
The tutorials available on this site are priceless along with a little digital camera that I took pictures with to see where all the bolts were located that needed removed. I had to remove the fan and shroud, turbo hoses, battery, air filter housing and several connections.
There is only two bolts that hold the starter, but if you don't remove the bolt that holds the bracket, it won't budge. That is where the fan and shroud removal was needed for to get a good look at the bolt and get a socket down there. Once disconnected took it to autozone and had it tested. It failed all three tests. Ordered a starter and now I just need to put all of the guts back together.
By the way, the two nuts that go into the starter bracket are different from the original starter so I will probably have to go to a hardware store to get some. All in all, it wasn't too hard of a job. Maybe a 4 out of 10. I kind of would like to replace some of the radiator hoses that wrap around the block towards the bottom and around the motor, but I can't wait to get it back together and cruise. Thanks for all the advise guys.
even if the new starter helps, you need to ask the question: why did the starter go bad? because volvo starters usually don't. i postulate your starter cable is bad. so search "voltage drop" and on one of the links you will find the volvo service manual for your car about how to trouble shoot alts. and starters.. it says to start with a voltage drop test on the cables under load.
99 V70XC 158K
95 850glt 188K
95 850glt 188K
Got the starter put back together and started like a champ.
Thanks for the tip Pauloil. Found the link for the voltage drop pdf.
It is a good question why the starter went belly up.
I used to have a 240 Turbo that had a bad starter and man was it a whole lot easier to replace (the starter).
It was located on the bottom of the engine where you can just unbolt it and pull it off.
One thing though...The starter that I put in was not bosch but duralast and the mounting bracket did not fit when I put it back together.
The guys at autozone did ask me if it was for California emissions car or not. I don't live in California so I got the other one and I think it is about half an inch shorter causing the mounting bracket not to reach.
It was about $130.00 with my starter as a core.
It worked fine, just would have liked for the bracket to be on for peace of mind. It does have a life time warranty though.
I guess time will tell.
Thanks for the tip Pauloil. Found the link for the voltage drop pdf.
It is a good question why the starter went belly up.
I used to have a 240 Turbo that had a bad starter and man was it a whole lot easier to replace (the starter).
It was located on the bottom of the engine where you can just unbolt it and pull it off.
One thing though...The starter that I put in was not bosch but duralast and the mounting bracket did not fit when I put it back together.
The guys at autozone did ask me if it was for California emissions car or not. I don't live in California so I got the other one and I think it is about half an inch shorter causing the mounting bracket not to reach.
It was about $130.00 with my starter as a core.
It worked fine, just would have liked for the bracket to be on for peace of mind. It does have a life time warranty though.
I guess time will tell.
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