Getting my V70 back to "0" one slow step at a time.

ed7 · Post by **ed7** » 01 Apr 2011, 21:22

Do the front crank seal since you'll be there. No, you don't have to remove the pump.
Yes, replace idler and tensioner on the timing belt job.
The cam seals are more difficult to change, but not a killer. Remember, the cams turn at half the speed of the crank.
It's likely few if any coolant hoses have been changed. Think about replacing all of the hoses that aren't easy to do.
You'll find that you're doing work that should have been done years ago, which is why you got such a good deal.
Fluids, rubber goods, shocks and many nit picky things will need your attention. Think about what will keep it alive.
There's quite a few more miles left in that car.
Crank case ventilation next.
Pace yourself, enjoy the ride.
Ed

Post by **TRuck** » 02 Apr 2011, 06:37

thanks
but the serpentine tensioner? i will probably let that go this round because of $$'s unless it is urgent?

It's likely few if any coolant hoses have been changed. Think about replacing all of the hoses that aren't easy to do.
You'll find that you're doing work that should have been done years ago, which is why you got such a good deal.
Fluids, rubber goods, shocks and many nit picky things will need your attention. Think about what will keep it alive.
There's quite a few more miles left in that car.
Crank case ventilation next.

...thanks very much, that is a good plan...sort of what i was thinking...and believe me I know & am grateful for the deal I got...going to try to make the most of it.
thanks.

T

ed7 · Post by **ed7** » 02 Apr 2011, 06:56

In your case, the tensioner roller fer sure; the tensioner if necessary.
Ed

Post by **TRuck** » 06 Apr 2011, 17:45

this is what i ordered, and got yesterday...
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/203 FCP is Super super fast! plus went ahead and got the serp. tensioner (Meyle brand)....i'm pretty excited about my project in a week or so....

However, after reading stuff on different sites... about using "only volvo parts"...should i be concerned that my parts are not all genuine volvo?
please tell me these parts will be good for several k more miles?...if not...i will do what i gotta do..
thanks very much for answering my noob questions. I will try to keep them to a minimum.
thanks
T

Post by **kcodyjr** » 06 Apr 2011, 18:14

Re: OEM kit; FCP has two water pump and timing kits. If you got the one that says OEM, the important pieces are OEM.

Re: serpentine belt. Tip, use an allen wrench or spare nail to hold the tensioner forward, there's a hole for the purpose; and simply loop the new belt over the idler pulley last. That one doesn't have an edge lip, so you won't have to stretch the belt, which isn't good for them. I did it from above the car, without removing the wheel well liner, as so:

1, loop under the crank pulley first, with one hand on each "side" of the belt.

2, loop under the A/C pulley with your right hand, maintaining hand tension between it and the crank.

3, loop over the P/S pulley with your left hand, maintaining tension still.

4, loop over the alternator pulley with your right hand, still maintaining tension.

At this point, the belt should be lined up in each of the important pulleys, with the grooves laying in neatly.

5) Use both hands to slip the remaining loop over the idler pulley while still holding tension on the outer part.

Re: tensioner pulley. I tried replacing just the pulley on my 96, and the frickin' Torx bolt refused to budge. I'm going to simply replace the entire tensioner whenever it starts making noise. If you're going to try changing it, temporarily mount the tensioner upside down on one bolt so you don't have to hold it in place while you're stripping that torx bolt in a vain attempt to loosen it.

Post by **TRuck** » 08 Apr 2011, 07:37

thanks thanks

Post by **TRuck** » 23 Apr 2011, 12:28

uh-oh... a little help please? trouble with the TB or maybe cam sprockets. Belt gets slack between cam sprockets.

got the new TB on. All timing marks lined up. Tension on the belt all around seemed pretty good.
I was rotating it by hand to check ..... then i noticed at one point in the rotation the belt gets a lot of slack in between the cam sprockets. Enough to bump the cam cover up, and certainly too much to be right.

I tried re-threading the TB several times to keep tension on it from the crank upward. It is as taught as i can make it.

Then i noticed that the exhaust sprocket has about 1/4-1/2 inch play. Meaning i can rotate it counter CW to pull the slack out. but that also means it will simply turn back CW. The intake does not have this play. The bolts are secure to the shafts. the shaft itself seems to have the play in it.

Please note: i did take the sprockets off to replace the cam seals. i painted the bolts so that i could put them back in exact same place. I also scored a mark on the inside of the shafts perfectly vertical on the lower side so i could keep track. I also painted little marks top of the case and cams so i would know "which end up". And was super careful not to move anything when sprockets were off.

Also, I painted marks on my old TB so that I could count the ridges on the new one ...20. The new belt has the same distance between...20.

Did i somehow not get the sprockets back on right? if so...uh...how do i reset them ?
Is it a matter of being sure they are centered on the shaft? I'm thinking maybe hold something in (harmonic puller bolt-ish) in center and seeing if the radius is the same all around?
Should i disregard the counting of ridges on the new belt?

until then everything was going swimmingly...

open to suggestions....
thanks

MatDesign84 · Post by **MatDesign84** » 23 Apr 2011, 16:18

Sorry I didnt chime in earlier I just saw this. Welcome to the forum, and what a sweet deal on a V70! I will help where I can. Never did the TB, always a mechanic for that one. Question, can someone tell me where I should be looking for cam seal leaks front and back?

Post by **TRuck** » 23 Apr 2011, 21:13

thanks, yeah...great deal, but "free stuff" can still cost ya.
for me, i notice oil staining, & what looks to be leaks at bottom of cam seals. only did front seals right now. will post a pic if i can.
also, i did these now since i am down there and hope to be moving on the pcv next month...but first i have to get myself done with this step.

Post by **Pauloil** » 23 Apr 2011, 21:39

"Then i noticed that the exhaust sprocket has about 1/4-1/2 inch play. Meaning i can rotate it counter CW to pull the slack out. but that also means it will simply turn back CW. The intake does not have this play. The bolts are secure to the shafts. the shaft itself seems to have the play in it."
if you know you put the sprockets on tightly, then unless you can see the gear moving with the shaft staying put, it is ok to move either sproket back and forth a little to help get the belt on tight. if you get the belt tight on the right side and then on the exhaust gear, let the tensioner take up the slack and use the timing marks to tell if everything is lined up. when you turn the motor clockwise twice to recheck, isn't the belt pulling the exhaust side from the intake side and keeping it tight? did you pull the pin in the tensioner?

Getting my V70 back to "0" one slow step at a time.

Re: Getting my V70 back to "0" one slow step at a time.