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Looking for instructions for testing compression...

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Looking for instructions for testing compression...
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jblackburn
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Re: Looking for instructions for testing compression...

Post by jblackburn »

Gosh, yours is leaking everywhere!

I really can't tell on the belt side of the engine if it is the power steering pump/hoses leaking somewhere or that oil is coming up the belt from elsewhere.

On the distributor side, it is definitely your camshaft seals - go ahead and do them both. There's one behind the cam position sensor towards the firewall, one behind the distributor. Don't order "Elring" seals from FCP Groton - get OEM ones only; they are still cheap.

Up top on the valve cover - yours doesn't look nearly as bad as I have seen mine. Is the PCV system clear? Pull out your oil dipstick while idling and check for smoke. If that's clear, replace the oil cap seal (just the rubber ring) and make sure that hose that goes to the top is on tight.

Rear main seal would only be leaking under the car at the weep hole between the transmission and engine. That doesn't look like your problem, and yes it can be a huge pain in the rear to fix if it does blow out - I wouldn't even attempt to fix that one myself.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


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LamboSE5
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Post by LamboSE5 »

Hey,
jblackburn wrote:I really can't tell on the belt side of the engine if it is the power steering pump/hoses leaking somewhere or that oil is coming up the belt from elsewhere.
I called the shop..it was rustcheck/proof... :lol:
jblackburn wrote:On the distributor side, it is definitely your camshaft seals - go ahead and do them both. There's one behind the cam position sensor towards the firewall, one behind the distributor. Don't order "Elring" seals from FCP Groton - get OEM ones only; they are still cheap.
S**T !! I just ordered'em yesterday, Elring, and I even called back and asked about OEM - he was like no these are the exact same. Same rubber/material, same quality, just a bit cheaper. And I think he said they didn't have the OEM's/Volvo ones.
If they don't, where? I'll call Volvo later.
jblackburn wrote:Up top on the valve cover - yours doesn't look nearly as bad as I have seen mine. Is the PCV system clear? Pull out your oil dipstick while idling and check for smoke. If that's clear, replace the oil cap seal (just the rubber ring) and make sure that hose that goes to the top is on tight.
That's good I guess. I have a new oil filler cap coming with my FCP order, and the "tune up kit" (new dist. cap, plug wires etc...) Should I call'em back and say "how about some OEM cam seals please?"

Thanks J,

-J

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Don't sweat it. They are easy enough to replace it doesn't matter too much. People that have used the elring seals have had them not last all that long - but you should get a few years from them.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


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Post by LamboSE5 »

So, I need 2 of each? 2 rear, and 2 front?

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Post by jblackburn »

The "rear" of the engine is the side facing the drivers side of the car.

Are the "front" ones (under the timing belt) leaking? Those ones are much more difficult to replace.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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LamboSE5
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Post by LamboSE5 »

I've done some researching, videos etc.., on engines mostly. Wow, eye-opening. I have a better under standing of how an engine works, rather than a very foggy one.

Anyway, yea, now that I know what the "front", and "rear" are and how to distinguish them ( :roll: ), it's much better.

So, I called my Volvo Dealership and they just happened to have the (OEM) seals - 2 front and 2 rear cam seals. So I took all 4. But I'll probably return the 2 front cam seal ( I was worried for a reason, but it's nothing ).

However, looking at all the tuts (tutorials) where people label the job "rear cam seals" (plural), I only see them replacing 1 rear cam seal... What's up with that?

Knowing what I know now, and how easily you (jblackburn) diagnosed where that oil was coming from, I realize there is absolutely NO WAY the only volvo shop here wouldn't know or suspect my oil problem in that area was a rear cam seal, and tell me it was a "left rear head gasket"...
LamboSE5 wrote:On the distributor side, it is definitely your camshaft seals - go ahead and do them both. There's one behind the cam position sensor towards the firewall, one behind the distributor. Don't order "Elring" seals from FCP Groton - get OEM ones only; they are still cheap.
Any instructions for the one behind the "cam position sensor" seal?
I kinda see where it is (the cam anyway) in some pics, but if you have a link for that specific one that'd help. Also, pretty sure I still have a copy of VADIS (2005), stuff like this should be in that ... maybe? Haynes - doubtful, I'll check. I find VADIS hard to navigate for a newb.
edit - Found It
Peace.
Last edited by LamboSE5 on 29 Apr 2011, 22:03, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by LamboSE5 »

ps. off topic, but any pictures of the connection(s) where the turbo oil cooler lines connect to? Man it'd be cool to do something custom with those stupid connectors.
-pcv wise, the small diameter tubes that run from the turbo intake hose to the box and intake (i think) - either way - could you use something else, like quality silicone tube/vacuum tubing for that application? Instead of the brittle URO brand crap I just put on?

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Post by jblackburn »

Most things I know the answer to is only because I've had happen to me. Which is good I suppose because that's how I learn the best :mrgreen:

I despise VADIS. It can sometimes be useful, but it's usually just a awkward, poorly sorted piece of junk.

Cam sensor:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/1 ... s-of-pics/
(basically just remove the sensor and replace the seal).

Sure, you could use silicone for the vacuum line. I need to put a big post somewhere that says don't buy the URO kit. Mine has only been a total PITA since I installed the thing.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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Post by LamboSE5 »

jblackburn - Thanks

I got home yesterday and saw that I had no license plate...needless to say, I was pissed. So no driving until I get a new plate on Monday.
What else can happen :/

I guess I'll call FCP and ask'em for the OEM brand hoses for the ones you list.. #20, #4 and...I'll search for'em
Thanks buddy, you're (and other MVS members) the most help I've had with this car. I can't say thanks enough.

Can't wait till Monday to tackle this repair!

dray79
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Post by dray79 »

Someone mentioned a factory spec for a compression test. I have a 1996 960 and the only spec I can find for compression is the ratio, which is 10.7. Anyone know where I can get a spec for compression?

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