- Wrench, 10mm socket. *to remove the bolt*
- T40 screwdriver. *to remove the 2 screws*
- Flat head screwdriver *to remove seal and sensor
- Flash light *extra light*
- Rag to clean
Here is where you begin. It is easier to remove the air box just because it gives you some room to move around, I started off with it still in, but I decided to just remove it to make it easier on myself.
This is the rear cam sensor, you must remove the 2 T40 screws in order to get it off.rear Cam sensorOnce you get it unscrewed preceed to getting out your flat head!
This is the second hardest part to do.
Either pry Carefully, or get a hammer and lightly tap on the top screw area from the engine side. Look at pictures.
*note how i have the flat head screwdriver on the bottom screw area as it is easier to go in that way*
You will need to *Wiggle* it out, by prying the top, then bottom, then top, and so on untill it comes out fully.Once it comes off The sensor side should look like this.If you are looking to replace just the sensor, it plugs in here. Just follow the wire. if not, than skip this photo. *Once you replace your sensor, just put the cap back on, line up the screw holes and tighten the screws*Next is taking out the 10mm bolt
URGENT!!! REMEMBER HOW THIS PART COMES OUT!!! I ADVISE YOU TAKE A PHOTO!!! SO YOU CAN REFRENCE IT WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK IN!!, Also, it has to key back in to the position you removed it from.Heres what it looks like once out.
front, and back.FRONTBACK – Once you take that out it reveals the seal.
Your on your own on getting that out, Unfortunitly for me mine did not fall apart like I had hopped. so I had to pry it out. I used my flat head, but wish i could have found my glasses repair kit so i could have gotten it out easier.
Once its removed. No sealNo seal – Take your new seal and place it back in where the old one came out. Make sure it goes in all the way. Should sit flush or even in a little bit.
might have to force it in.Once you get it back in seal it all back up.
MAKE SURE YOU PUT THAT METAL PIECE YOU TOOK OUT BACK IN THE SAME WAY IT CAME OUT!
Once everything is put back in place and screwed shut. *and tools removed from engine bay*
Leave the hood open. Start the car up and let it run for a few.
If when you start the car it turns over and stalls, or just doesnt turn on, DO NOT FREAK OUT. *like i did…. * just remove the cover, unscrew the 10mm bolt and rotate the metal piece. It will only go in 2 ways. one being wrong, and the other being right.
Screw everything back up, and have fun driving.
The ’93 850 is the same. Did mine last weekend. Rob beat me to the pic’s with a really helpful writeup. I’ll add a couple of things, and a few more pics.
First, some bad wrenching left me with a lower Torx screw that was almost rounded out. I used plently of PB Blaster and with help finally got it out. That was almost a project stopper. Make sure you have a good sharp bit to avoid that problem.
The exhaust seal has a metal face—the surface you’re looking at when you remove the back plate with the center screw. That plate only goes on one way. If you try to put it on the other way it doesn’t set flat. That’s because the slot in the end of the camshaft cuts a little below the center line—designed so you can’t install the plate wrong. Rob was lucky I think that turning the engine over with that plate on unevenly didn’t take out his timing sensor (the two come very close when the camshaft is turning).
I bought the long handle seal remover from Harbor Freight and have found a couple of uses for it; but not on this seal. I suggest you don’t try to dig out the seal like Rob’s pic shows. Maybe no harm was done, but you might score the shaft or the aluminum housing that holds the seal. Instead, drill a small hole through the metal face of the seal. I center punched mine first to hold the drill on point. With the hole drilled, find a screw that’s a bit bigger than the hole and screw it in slowly. The screw point will contact the middle of the back of the housing behind the seal. That’s as far as the screw can go. Keep turning the screw slowly and the threads will hold in the seal’s metal face and walk the seal right out.
NEXT: Clean things up in there with a rag wrapped around a prod of some kind—like a screw driver. Make sure there’s no crud around the outside of the seal housing where the edge of the seal needs to be leak free.
Then: Spray some silicone inside the housing and you’ll get some on the camshaft at the same time.
Also spray silicone around the outside of the seal (the rubber rim).
Put some GREASE on the inside rim of the seal where it will contact the shaft. You don not want the shaft to turn on a dry seal.
INSTALLATION TRICK: Hit the PVC bins at your local big box hardware store and get a pvc cap that’s inch and a quarter (1 1/4″)
A sleeve will do. You just want a round cylinder to evenly press the new lubed seal into its seat. It goes in a ways before seating. The pvc works perfectly for this. (If you do the intake seals, I think those are inch and a half. Take your seals with you to the store and just find the pvc fitting that is closest to the diameter of the seal without going over.
Getting the first old seal out was the most time consuming for me until I punched and drilled them. I did not want to scratch or gouge anything in there. The drill worked perfectly. Oh, yeah, I have the close area drill attachment (Harbor Freight has one on sale this week, I think-good to have when you need it).
With the right tools, replacing the seals is quite easy.
PS I did all 4 of mine; the punch and drill worked perfectly on the intake seals as well. (I also did the front main seal while I was at it; getting to it is another story, but the punch and drill to remove it worked there too. So far, nice and dry!