Once you get it back in seal it all back up. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THAT METAL PIECE YOU TOOK OUT BACK IN THE SAME WAY IT CAME OUT! Once everything is put back in place and screwed shut. *and tools removed from engine bay* Leave the hood open. Start the car up and let it run for a few. If when you start the car it turns over and stalls, or just doesnt turn on, DO NOT FREAK OUT. *like i did…. * just remove the cover, unscrew the 10mm bolt and rotate the metal piece. It will only go in 2 ways. one being wrong, and the other being right.
First, some bad wrenching left me with a lower Torx screw that was almost rounded out. I used plently of PB Blaster and with help finally got it out. That was almost a project stopper. Make sure you have a good sharp bit to avoid that problem.
The exhaust seal has a metal face—the surface you’re looking at when you remove the back plate with the center screw. That plate only goes on one way. If you try to put it on the other way it doesn’t set flat. That’s because the slot in the end of the camshaft cuts a little below the center line—designed so you can’t install the plate wrong. Rob was lucky I think that turning the engine over with that plate on unevenly didn’t take out his timing sensor (the two come very close when the camshaft is turning).
I bought the long handle seal remover from Harbor Freight and have found a couple of uses for it; but not on this seal. I suggest you don’t try to dig out the seal like Rob’s pic shows. Maybe no harm was done, but you might score the shaft or the aluminum housing that holds the seal. Instead, drill a small hole through the metal face of the seal. I center punched mine first to hold the drill on point. With the hole drilled, find a screw that’s a bit bigger than the hole and screw it in slowly. The screw point will contact the middle of the back of the housing behind the seal. That’s as far as the screw can go. Keep turning the screw slowly and the threads will hold in the seal’s metal face and walk the seal right out.”