Need help with codes, and free advice

[JRL]

Clear the codes, the CVVT code may not come back
442 is an emission code and MUST be fixed for emission readiness status (as does the 02 code)

[SilverS70]

For the P0442, check the J Hose at the charcoal canister for cracks. Clean the hose and look real carefully. Here is a video on it.

[coldax]

Thanks.

So what's the best of the non-Volvo oxygen sensors? I went to Autozone and they quoted me $259 for Bosch.

Ebay has dozens of cheap ones, as low as $20 which seems hard to believe.

[JRL]

Do NOT use anything but Volvo or Bosch

[coldax]

I see a BOSCH # 15558 for $155. That has the wiring with a quick connector. That sounds easier than cutting and soldering.

[Maasai]

I agree with you. i had my service engine light turned off. Been off for 3weeks plus i had disconnected my battery to install stereo. When i went fro inspection, the system said "not ready" and they gave me an extension told me to drive for a couple of weeks before I return.

if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes it will reset the computer and the check engine light will go off for a few miles

Won't help it pass inspection. The "ready states" in the computer will read "not ready", which they have to be in order for it to pass inspection.

Before you REPLACE ANYTHING (O2 sensors, etc), start looking for a vacuum leak. There is one, and it may be only in the EVAP system itself.

[coldax]

It's been a few weeks since my original post, so here is an update:

I replaced the 02 sensor (pre-cat) with the correct Bosch part. $129 on Amazon. Amazingly it came loose right away. The new one is pre-lubed with anti-seize and has the proper connector. No soldering for me. Nice.

I replaced the VVT solenoid. About $160 from Volvo dealer after core refund and a 10% discount I was able to wrangle. I used the supplied connector and spliced into the wires. Prety simple.

I then convinced the guy at my local Autozone to clear the CEL using his handheld scanner. They won't do it for you anymore because they were getting some flack from the state inspection officals. Drove about 150 miles and no CEL light. Went back to original mechanic who did the inspection, his handheld scanner returned P1670 and P1671. He felt these are emissions-related but said I should drive a few more days and maybe it will clear. He said he wants to connect to his larger computer (not a Volvo system) and see what 1670 and 1671 translate to. I checked on the Internets and someone said these codes translate to an ECM code that means my immobilizer antenna (under the steering column) needs to be either replaced or contacts cleaned. I plan to do that in the next few days.

I have until 5/31 before my car is technically illegal to drive. Not sure what police would do if I am stopped. Definately a ticket or maybe even impound.

I musy say I can feel the difference with the new VVT solenoid. Acceleration from a stop and while moving/downshifting is much improved. That seems to be helping the trans shift smoother. Idle is about the same, seems to have gone up about 50 rpms.

I looked into the EVAP J-hose someone posted above, but mine looks OK. I really hope it's not that. I'll post again when this is resolved one way or another.

Thanks! Coldax.

[coldax]

I'm gonna click my heels and jump for joy, I gotta clean bill of health from Dr. McCoy! (Who can name the source of that quote?)

Yeah Baby Yeah! My car has finally passed NJ state inspection! I had a lingering P1671 code, which turned to be the VVT solenoid sensor wires weren't pushed into the new connector completely. I got the code cleared, drove for a couple of days, and went and got the new sticker.

So here are my 'takeways' from this experience:
1. The Volvo specialist I went to was spot on with his diagnosis. That cost me $100 but it was worth it.
2. I saved about $500 U.S. by sourcing the parts and doing the work myself.
3. I scoured the Internets (expecially MatthewsVolvoSite) for information and brain-picking to help me troubleshoot. Thanks!
4. If I ever get the P1671 code again I will check the wiring first before replacing the $160 solenoid.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice. If I didn't get this fixed I would have had to sell my car for $300-400. Not a good option for me right now.

Peace,
Coldax.

[ONV70XC]

if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes it will reset the computer and the check engine light will go off for a few miles

Won't help it pass inspection. The "ready states" in the computer will read "not ready", which they have to be in order for it to pass inspection.

Before you REPLACE ANYTHING (O2 sensors, etc), start looking for a vacuum leak. There is one, and it may be only in the EVAP system itself.

Haven't got the inspection time yet, but did a reset of computer and had check-engine light off for 600 miles. That is to say to reset, drive for 20...50 miles and if light isn't back on, than you'll be 'ready'.