spindle nut wont loosen

[angelglo]

ive tried and ive tried but the driver's side spindle nut wont come off. the original ones had these three "ears" on them and i cut them off, thinking that they are the cause for it being soo tight, carefully as to not affect the threads. i put some liquid wrench on the nut and around the shoulder area where it meets the rotor. then i use a breaker but to no avail. i dont have use of a acetalyn torch so that is out.

i dont know what to do next. can someone offer some advice? i dont want to take it to a shop to get it removed.

do you guys think the MAPP gas can get it hot enough to loosen?

im almost done with the R and R of a new motor but this is holding me up.

thanks
angel

ps, im turning it the right way, counter clockwise, so that is not the problem.

[dosbricks]

The torque spec for the front axle nut is 89 ft. lb. + 60 degrees rotation, which equals 'umpteen 'hunnert pounds of torque. I achieved the 60 degree rotation with a hefty old Craftsman breaker-bar with a 2 ft. cheater pipe on the handle and standing on the end of that, so you've got to get some muscle on that nut to remove it. By the way, this final tightening should be done with the wheel on and the car on the ground (through The center cap hole).

I wouldn't heat it much 'cause you've got a wheel bearing behind there. Also, they used to "spike" the front of the nut with a chisel to make sure it wouldn't come loose, so that can make it tougher to get off.

The shops use a big impact air tool.

[angelglo]

thats what i am using. a craftsman breaker bar. i was using a cheater bar but it still didnt work. i finally put a jack under the breaker bar and let it sit outside thinking the liquid wrench would finally get into all the crevises. i cut off the ears that the shop would cinch down on.

oh, the breaker bar is bending alot. i think it will actually break if i keep putting tension on it. lucky the breaker bar and the socket are craftsman so i can replace them after i finish this thing.

angel