shocks and struts

[davvver]

I live in Northern Ontario. Roads here are a bit rough so maybe this is normal... I find my 98 V70 hits bumps hard.

I havent checked the records yet but I think the shocks and struts are original. I am assuming there is struts in the front and shocks in the rear?

My question is: How do you know when they need changing? The car feels good (handling, no noises, etc.). The only thing is i find it hits the bumps hard (specifically the rear).

Thanks!

-Dave

[zhenya]

Well, this generation of Volvo was never known for a particularly smooth ride - the suspension has relatively short travel, and paired with fairly low profile tires and somewhat stiff suspension, it's never going to be smooth. Wagons also seem to ride harder than sedans, in part because of the sound and vibration transmitted throughout the open cabin.

That said, if your parts are original, they almost certainly could use replacement. Lots of options available - the trick is that when you start doing all the other stuff 'while you're in there' that it can add up to a substantial bill.

Simple way to check their condition is to compress each corner by bouncing your weight up and down, and watch the action when it returns. does it return slowly and controlled, or does it continue to bounce before settling down? Also, of course look for any signs of oil leaks on the tubes themselves.

[cn90]

FYI,

I wrote BOTH the FRONT + REAR suspension DIYs for the same car 1998 V70:

DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28455

DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Rear Shock Absorber (BilsteinTC) & Shock
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28318

[davvver]

The car is not bouncing now... So i guess i should just wait until i see other signs. What other things are normally changed when replacing the shocks and struts?

[zhenya]

Strut mounts, spring seats, sway bar links, control arms, tie rods and tie rod ends, etc. etc. Since most of the steering and suspension parts are related, there is often a time savings in doing things together when things are already apart.

[ChiNorm]

Your 13 yo car has the original shocks? At a minimum, the fronts are gone, quite likely the rears too. Forget the bounce test, the shocks will be gone far before this test works. The DW just inherited a 2002 V70 w/100k miles, the front end floated and bobbed on bumps instead of acurately tracking the road. We replaced the front struts and the difference is profound.

Just replace them all, along with the parts mentioned by others. Do get the HD front strut mounts. You won't believe the difference in the ride.

Good luck.

[vjaneczko]

Here's what my 13 YO shocks looked like:


Here's a bad shock mount:


And here's a symptom of several things around the strut needing repair:


cn90's write-ups were what I used to replace everything - and I never did suspension work before, so they both are fan-frickin-tastic!

[kcodyjr]

I've heard you want the spring seats for the XC90, OEM new, for any older Volvo.

However, if it ain't broke, don't fix it - yet. Just start accumulating parts so you can do it all at once, without being under the time pressure of a broken car, and thus the financial pressure of doing it quickly. If you plan a massive preemptive parts swap, you have the luxury of getting whatever parts you want. Koni FSD gets good reviews...

My 1996 855 still has the original shocks and struts, and you'd never know they were 15 years old.

I just picked it up from the indy for a PCV, tune-up, and caliper replacement - $45 from Erie - and I can count the reasons you know it's not brand new without taking my shoes or pants off:

* Slight road roughness from Falken on the front and Kelly on the rear, versus Michelin on a new car.

* Single solitary interior squeak somewhere behind the driver, which could have just been my tools, and takes a pretty severe bump to make it happen anyway.

* ABS and TRACS lights on, and I couldn't care less. In fact, is there a permanent disable for this?

* Front seat leather and carpets have been through the wringer, or at least a few wild stampedes.

* Clearcoat totally shot, badly enough to see from the driver's seat.

I'm not leaving anything out, at least, nothing I noticed. It drives straight and true, corners and stops like it's on rails, and keeps admirable composure over the typical Massachusetts crappy roads. The engine is smooth and quiet at any speed, and zips along as well as the anemic 168hp NA ever did.

I've begun to ramble and sorry for that, but, back to my point:

* If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

* If it ain't broke yet but soon will be, plan and buy, but do not rush the replacement.

[Ozark Lee]

* ABS and TRACS lights on, and I couldn't care less. In fact, is there a permanent disable for this?

Yah, Get Matty Moo to fix the ABS Module or solder it yourself. After the module initially fails things go from bad to worse and you will ultimately loose your speedometer. The TRACS function is worthless and I have driven most of the cars in my life without ABS but the speedometer is important when the local constabulary is on your rear bumper.

...Lee

[davvver]

I bought the car with 155000km in 2007 and the previous owner had everything maintained at his volvo dealership. The records show "diagnose/fix" for many items so I assume the suspension must have been done before I got it. Since then I have replace tie rod ends, control arms etc. Suspension seems fine...