Matt -
Now THIS is what I was looking for! Although it's for a different model, I'll bet (hope!) it will translate.
Can't understand why I couldn't find it on my own.....must be the model difference.
Thank you!!
I expect to be back at this tomorrow or Sun. I'll post results.
window regulator replacement - not motor
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Window Regulator Fix S80
Okay, folks - mission accomplished. Many thanks to all who responded.
I spent quite some time trying the adjustment procedure documented in the linked post above with no joy. Couldn't get the front to back tilt out of it. Finally decided to remove the whole assembly.
I first lowered the window far enough to see the rail and bushings, and then used a couple of strips of duct tape over the top of the door with a piece of cardboard under it to protect the weatherstripping. This was a quick and simple means of holding the window in place. Worked great.
After popping the control arms out of the rail bushings - here I found a small right angle pry bar to be very helpful - I lowered the control arms most of the way.
I then disconnected the link to the door latch, and unbolted the assembly. With the control arms in this position, the assembly came out with only a small amount of manipulation.
Upon inspection, it became evident that there was perhaps 1/8" of back and forth play in the front control arm, caused by a loosening of the rivet (for lack of a better term) and the star washers that hold the arms together at the pivot point. I tried peening this to tighten it up, and tried some judicious dimples with a prick punch, with no luck. I considered a dollop of JB weld, but decided that was a bad idea. I decided to replace the assembly with the one in my parts car.
Other than having to bring power to the parts car to operate the window motor, the second assembly removal naturally went much more quickly. Sure enough, there was no play in the corresponding control arm, and when this assembly was installed in the daily driver, all systems were go.
I'm quite sure that I caused the loosening of the control arm when wrestling with this the first time around - I wish I'd found the above linked post before I first tried removing this assembly. Still don't understand why a search on this forum for "window regulator" didn't turn it up, but all is well that ends well. I feel fortunate to have a parts car, though!
Sorry I can't post pics - no camera, no phone. Hope my description helps out someone down the road.
'Til next time, folks!
I spent quite some time trying the adjustment procedure documented in the linked post above with no joy. Couldn't get the front to back tilt out of it. Finally decided to remove the whole assembly.
I first lowered the window far enough to see the rail and bushings, and then used a couple of strips of duct tape over the top of the door with a piece of cardboard under it to protect the weatherstripping. This was a quick and simple means of holding the window in place. Worked great.
After popping the control arms out of the rail bushings - here I found a small right angle pry bar to be very helpful - I lowered the control arms most of the way.
I then disconnected the link to the door latch, and unbolted the assembly. With the control arms in this position, the assembly came out with only a small amount of manipulation.
Upon inspection, it became evident that there was perhaps 1/8" of back and forth play in the front control arm, caused by a loosening of the rivet (for lack of a better term) and the star washers that hold the arms together at the pivot point. I tried peening this to tighten it up, and tried some judicious dimples with a prick punch, with no luck. I considered a dollop of JB weld, but decided that was a bad idea. I decided to replace the assembly with the one in my parts car.
Other than having to bring power to the parts car to operate the window motor, the second assembly removal naturally went much more quickly. Sure enough, there was no play in the corresponding control arm, and when this assembly was installed in the daily driver, all systems were go.
I'm quite sure that I caused the loosening of the control arm when wrestling with this the first time around - I wish I'd found the above linked post before I first tried removing this assembly. Still don't understand why a search on this forum for "window regulator" didn't turn it up, but all is well that ends well. I feel fortunate to have a parts car, though!
Sorry I can't post pics - no camera, no phone. Hope my description helps out someone down the road.
'Til next time, folks!
I had the same problem and after checking with a local shop, I was told it was the blue slider clips that hold the window in place. I purchased both the regulator and clips from FCP Gorton. Parts as follows: Volvo 940 8 Valve Left Front Window Regulator 1992-1995 (Aftermarket)Qty: 1 Price Ea: $129.00 and Volvo 940 8 Valve Window Regulator Sliding Pivot 1992-1995 (Scan Tech) Quantity needed - 2 @ $2.49.
I have pictures of the repair but haven't written out the process yet. Basically the regulator had metal fatigue at the center of the "X" which was the source of the problem. I initially hoped that it was just the sliding pivots which had worn at the top portion.
Replacing those two pivots is done by removing the door panel and lowering the window so you can access the sliders. Pop the clip with a screw driver and then pop the regulator arm knob from the slider pivot. Install new sliders, pop regulator knob in hole, slide in new clip and you are done. In my case, the window still didn't go up properly. That meant I had to replace the regulator. The hardest part was drilling out the rivets but if you ever replaced the door speakers, then you already know what to do. The second hardest part (which I didn't think I had to do) is that the regulator has a white slider arm (not part of the X arms) that is in its own track. There are two #6 bolts holding that track in place. This track and the regulator come out toward once you compress the X arms in order to slide it out the bottom opening. By the way, I found that removing the window helps. Once the regulator was out, you can easily see the center metal connector that holds the arms developed a crack and no longer held or allowed the regulator to close properly. New regulator installed, new clips and glass back in - works as it should.
I have pictures of the repair but haven't written out the process yet. Basically the regulator had metal fatigue at the center of the "X" which was the source of the problem. I initially hoped that it was just the sliding pivots which had worn at the top portion.
Replacing those two pivots is done by removing the door panel and lowering the window so you can access the sliders. Pop the clip with a screw driver and then pop the regulator arm knob from the slider pivot. Install new sliders, pop regulator knob in hole, slide in new clip and you are done. In my case, the window still didn't go up properly. That meant I had to replace the regulator. The hardest part was drilling out the rivets but if you ever replaced the door speakers, then you already know what to do. The second hardest part (which I didn't think I had to do) is that the regulator has a white slider arm (not part of the X arms) that is in its own track. There are two #6 bolts holding that track in place. This track and the regulator come out toward once you compress the X arms in order to slide it out the bottom opening. By the way, I found that removing the window helps. Once the regulator was out, you can easily see the center metal connector that holds the arms developed a crack and no longer held or allowed the regulator to close properly. New regulator installed, new clips and glass back in - works as it should.
DYI Window Regulator
Images for the parts are available at FCP Groton.
Disconnect the battery.
Prey out the three door trim panel base clips (white clips at the bottom of the door panel).
Remove the door marker edge light cover (red) on the panel and remove the bulb.
Remove the speaker cover and speaker if necessary.
Free the arm rest by removing the plastic clip that holds it in place.
Pry out the window switch.
Unscrew the interior lock button.
Last step; free the door panel from the two remaining clips by tugging or prying. Make sure you disconnect the door marker edge light and speaker wires before removing the door panel. The door switch can stay in place.
With the panel removed, removed the bottom opening’s plastic cover (white piece) by pulling it out.
Find the wire running from the window regulator and disconnect it. It should be dead center.
Optional step – remove the window by placing the control arms in a low position so that you can disengage the lift arms from the light blue pivot sliders. Note – you may want to secure the window with tape or a wedge so it doesn’t fall.
Depending on whether you remove the window or not, it is advisable to replace the two light blue sliders. The sliders wear on the top portion or are likely to be cracked. They should be replaced at this time.
You disengage the lift arms by popping out the clip from the each slider. Use a pry bar or long screw driver to pop the control arm from the slider. Once the lift arms are out of the sliders, remove the glass. WARNING – there is a screw that holds the interior lock button in place (Phillips head screw) and sticks out. You may want to loosen that screw so that it doesn’t scratch the window on the way out.
There are four rivets that hold the window regulator in place. They are located dead center in the door at approximately the 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock, 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock positions. You will need to drill out the rivets. No harm in making these holes a little wider as you will see later when you install the new regulator.
If you check the FCP site for the regulator, the new screws are near the spring mechanism. The shortest arm is the portion that is placed into the stop track and has the white washer disc - which is hard to see in this picture.
In additional to the control arms, there is an additional track for the regulator which I believe serves as the window stop. This track is held in place by two metric side #6 nuts. The regulator has a white slider washer that is difficult to remove while still in the door. Removing the track will allow you to use needle nose pliers to make an opening in the track in order to completely remove the regulator (which will occur after you have the regulator removed).
Remove the regulator by compressing the window lift arms. Removal is done at the lower portion of the door (the largest opening).
With the regulator out, now is the time to use the needle nose pliers to make an opening on one end of the stop arm. Remove the white slider arm from the track. Take care of the track as you will be reusing it.
Take the new regulator and install the white slider in the stop track. Using the needle nose pliers, bend back the portion of the track that you used to free the old regulator.
Put the new window regulator back in place with four metric #6 nuts. The part that I purchased from FCP didn’t have those nuts so make sure that your replacement piece has some or get them beforehand. I secured the stop track first and then aligned the four screws in the existing holes. At first try I noticed that three of the holes were not wide enough and I had to drill wider openings for the screws (that were part of the new regulator).
Installation is the reverse of the previous steps. Take caution to ensure that the window is in its track.
Images for the parts are available at FCP Groton.
Disconnect the battery.
Prey out the three door trim panel base clips (white clips at the bottom of the door panel).
Remove the door marker edge light cover (red) on the panel and remove the bulb.
Remove the speaker cover and speaker if necessary.
Free the arm rest by removing the plastic clip that holds it in place.
Pry out the window switch.
Unscrew the interior lock button.
Last step; free the door panel from the two remaining clips by tugging or prying. Make sure you disconnect the door marker edge light and speaker wires before removing the door panel. The door switch can stay in place.
With the panel removed, removed the bottom opening’s plastic cover (white piece) by pulling it out.
Find the wire running from the window regulator and disconnect it. It should be dead center.
Optional step – remove the window by placing the control arms in a low position so that you can disengage the lift arms from the light blue pivot sliders. Note – you may want to secure the window with tape or a wedge so it doesn’t fall.
Depending on whether you remove the window or not, it is advisable to replace the two light blue sliders. The sliders wear on the top portion or are likely to be cracked. They should be replaced at this time.
You disengage the lift arms by popping out the clip from the each slider. Use a pry bar or long screw driver to pop the control arm from the slider. Once the lift arms are out of the sliders, remove the glass. WARNING – there is a screw that holds the interior lock button in place (Phillips head screw) and sticks out. You may want to loosen that screw so that it doesn’t scratch the window on the way out.
There are four rivets that hold the window regulator in place. They are located dead center in the door at approximately the 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock, 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock positions. You will need to drill out the rivets. No harm in making these holes a little wider as you will see later when you install the new regulator.
If you check the FCP site for the regulator, the new screws are near the spring mechanism. The shortest arm is the portion that is placed into the stop track and has the white washer disc - which is hard to see in this picture.
In additional to the control arms, there is an additional track for the regulator which I believe serves as the window stop. This track is held in place by two metric side #6 nuts. The regulator has a white slider washer that is difficult to remove while still in the door. Removing the track will allow you to use needle nose pliers to make an opening in the track in order to completely remove the regulator (which will occur after you have the regulator removed).
Remove the regulator by compressing the window lift arms. Removal is done at the lower portion of the door (the largest opening).
With the regulator out, now is the time to use the needle nose pliers to make an opening on one end of the stop arm. Remove the white slider arm from the track. Take care of the track as you will be reusing it.
Take the new regulator and install the white slider in the stop track. Using the needle nose pliers, bend back the portion of the track that you used to free the old regulator.
Put the new window regulator back in place with four metric #6 nuts. The part that I purchased from FCP didn’t have those nuts so make sure that your replacement piece has some or get them beforehand. I secured the stop track first and then aligned the four screws in the existing holes. At first try I noticed that three of the holes were not wide enough and I had to drill wider openings for the screws (that were part of the new regulator).
Installation is the reverse of the previous steps. Take caution to ensure that the window is in its track.
This post just saved me almost $500. Definitely pull your switches, spray WD-40 in master and slave switches, give it some time to work and then...miracle! Window was frozen mid way and now works like a charm. Also spray the child window lock switch as well. Thanks!
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vbouchar
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 6 June 2009
- Year and Model: 850 GLT 1996 C70 200
- Location: Springfield, VA USA
If you find this post and have disassembled and fixed everything, there is one more problem you might have. I've fixed the window motor and the regulator and it's waiting to be reinstalled, but I have this other unknown part that I found while inspecting the inside of the door with a mirror and flashlight. It had broken off and was laying in the bottom of the door. It turned out to be a channel through which the window slides as it goes up and down, and, after some inspection, I figured out where it belonged. It is attached with one bolt to the door near the reflector light under the door latch and runs from the top of the door frame down to the bottom. It broke away from the clip at the point of attachment and had become a bit mangled. My problem is that searching hasn't turned up any replacement parts--I don't know what it's called to begin with. I need to find one of these gems! Does anyone have any ideas? Also, if your window isn't tracking right, this could be the culprit. Thanks in advance
1996 850 GLT
2008 C70 T5
2008 XC70
2008 C70 T5
2008 XC70
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JimBee
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 9 December 2008
- Year and Model: 93 and 2 96 850's
- Location: Minneapolis
- Has thanked: 25 times
- Been thanked: 42 times
That has happened on a couple of my 850's. I just leave them out; the window still stays pretty much in line when opening and closing. I'd call it the lower window channel. A Volvo parts supplier probably has the official name.
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vbouchar
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 6 June 2009
- Year and Model: 850 GLT 1996 C70 200
- Location: Springfield, VA USA
Thanks, I'll give that a try. I looked around on line this afternoon and finally found it. It's called a window regulator rail and costs about $20-25. Considering the shape mine was in, it probably hasn't been functional for a long time, so I'll try leaving it out.
1996 850 GLT
2008 C70 T5
2008 XC70
2008 C70 T5
2008 XC70
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