1995 into 1999 engine swap thread , Mike 2012

Post by **precopster** » 14 May 2011, 05:10

Well I did the unthinkable & purchased a 99 v70 NA with around 155 k miles and a suspected blown head gasket/seized engine.

Brought her home after she had been sitting around for about a year. The owner knew that the throttle bodies were a problem but used to clean it and it was behaving when he last drove it. He said it overheated one day (cause unknown) and when he towed it back it was "seized".

Had a quick look at her today. Battery was DEAD. Engine turns but sounds as though there's no compression at all. Timing marks appear OK. I tested for fuel at the rail and it's there. Coil pack 1 produced spark, then I dropped a capful of engine oil through the spark plug holes 1 & 2, hooked up a compression guage to cyls 1 & 2 to find ZERO.

I know there was some procedure about not allowing DTCs to be set while compression testing. It looks as though I may have set a DTC because I have LOST SPARK after compression testing 1 & 2, but I don't have a scanner yet, only a Vol-FCR one which does up to '98 years. Any suggestions on purchase of the right scanner for my car would be great.

Does it sound reasonable that compression testing THE WRONG WAY will kill spark?

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 May 2011, 10:08

No, doing a compression test like you did is no different than cranking over an out of fuel engine.
On the early immobilizer cars (especially the Denso management system used on NA) you can get no spark from key being on too long. Did you turn off ignition for 20 or more seconds and then turn it back on again and see if there was spark?
A car parked that long could have relay issues from oxidized contact faces in relays too.

Post by **precopster** » 15 May 2011, 08:03

Thanks jimmy, spark has returned, but after doing wet tests on all 5 cylinders it seems she has about 25-40psi in all five.

The sump was dry; I mean really DRY

and after topping up she is spinning a little easier. Does cranking generate enough oil pressure to lubricate cams, crank etc ??

If bores are ruined this would explain the low compression, however I was told the motor was overheated. Can't see how ALL five cylinders could have gasket breach.

In any case looks as though the head will come off for the final word.

Post by **jimmy57** » 15 May 2011, 09:13

The oil pump is VERY capable on white motors unless the o rings allow air in or oil leak out. The pump will build 25 psi or more during good compression cranking with cold oil, more if the compression is low and cranking rpm is higher.
99's have hydraulic tappets and the low compression across the board can be due to low valve lift and is compounded if the throttle is not physically blocked open to give free air.
Does it hold coolant?

Post by **precopster** » 15 May 2011, 17:02

Thanks jimmy, the engine is original and probably neglected. O ring seals will be done before I get her back on the road.
The cam cam to head seal is bad as spark plug wells had a lot of oil with traces beginning at the cover to head seal, now that I mention it the oil cap was old too.

I haven't topped her up yet but will do so tonight.

On the ETM models should I open the throttle plate manually, then crank?

Post by **jimmy57** » 15 May 2011, 17:36

Yes, pull the hose off throttle and push it open with your finger and put something there to hold open.

Post by **precopster** » 22 May 2011, 06:34

Thanks that added some psi -about 10 across the cylinders on a wet test. On dry test some cylinders couldn't crack 10 psi~!!

You're exactly right jimmy, about the Denso system cutting spark when the ignition is left on too long. Spark returned next time around.

Looks like I'll be looking for another motor.

Any suggestions on what will fit/work?? The current motor has no VVT or VVT solenoid (but has provision for it on the cam cap) and it has ETM fitted. A friend of mine said that the inlet ports were different on my car to the earlier 20 valve engines from an 850.

Can I put an earlier 850 20 valve engine in my '99 ETM V70 or do I need the later block/head combination? (I have the mechanical belt tensioner)

Also I've been offered a S60 motor with VVT. Can I use the S60 2.5 NA motor and leave the VVT solenoid disconnected?

Post by **jimmy57** » 22 May 2011, 11:12

This a tough one.
I would pull the head and inspect before doing any other plotting and planning.
If the problem were to be rusty or stuck valves then the fix is easy.
The cam sensor is different on Denso with different reluctor and the cam I believe to different on rear where the Denso reluctor mounts.
You can't run CVVT unplugged, the cam will still vary a bit.
The Block from S60 with your head is a possibility though.

Post by **precopster** » 22 May 2011, 17:22

Thanks jimmy, that's the info I need. I suspected the variable cam needed some control.

As there are so many variables, I think I'll take your advice and begin to pull the head; only way to be sure. If the engine was overheated then it may make sense the valves are seized in the guides.

Post by **precopster** » 13 Jun 2011, 04:58

So this is the result after four hours of stripping this afternoon. A big chunk of aluminium missing out of the cylinder 1 piston; you can see it at about 2 o' clock.

Yeah, I shouldn't have bothered, but the head and valves look good, no missing bits and the original head gasket and valves with the same factory markings.

I poured water into the engine about three weeks ago and it was coming out and dropping on the road. The cylinders were actually filling with the water and there's corrosion/rust everywhere. Once the block is pulled I'm going to start investigating the possibility of putting a B5252S 10 valve block (with the 20 valve pistons/conrods) as I have one on a stand in the workshop. If the casting and bolt holes are in the same position it will work but there will be some work to rebuilding it as I've yet to compare the crank journals for the conrods. Same capacity and same bore & stroke b/w B5254 & B5252 so it's just a big meccano set waiting to be assembled.

I'm going very low budget on this car as so far it owes me around $800. It requires new PCV, heater core and firewall coupling (half of the coupling came out with one of the heater hoses!!) Also front spring seats are toast. I'll keep posting the progress as it occurs.