2000 S70 - Question about A/C compressor shim fix

[SeeSeventy]

Yes, my 1999 C70 compressor is different from the one on the shim fix. Any way to bread clip my compressor?

[jblackburn]

Look at the post mid-way down the page from malc-c here:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/98 ... try1338798

You will need a Volvospeed login to see the picture, but that should help you for the 1999.

Why they changed so many random things between the 1998 and 1999 is something we may never know.

[SeeSeventy]

That's definitely my compressor and clutch. It looks like they give the method to loosen the compressor a little and then remove the clutch while the compressor is still on the car.

[bobice]

I believed that I need to take the shim out or use the bread-clip when the compressor disengages, but then I knocked the compressor using the wheel lock, after one knock, the compressor was engaged. Then the compressor works over 30 minutes without shutting down. I'll report back low long this will hold. I knocked the clutches toward the driver side - I guess that made the gap correct.

[C@lvin]

The bread clip fix worked great on my 00 V70 for the last three years but the symptoms recently returned. The gap measured .3mm after the initial fix and was now at .5mm. I removed the old clips and measured the gap at about .9mm and decided to use some sheet metal I had from Home Depot (approximately .6mm thick) to bring the gap back to near the optimum .3mm width.

I thought the old clips might have become worn or warped, but after looking at them it seems more likely that either the rubber spacers or the internal components have become worn so that a thicker shim is necessary.

This is a quick and easy job and does not require special tools or loosening or removal of the compressor or releasing/refilling refrigerant. If you have a pre-99 compressor it will look a little different than mine (like the previously referenced picture on Volvospeed) but the fix is nearly identical.

When the gap becomes too wide the magnetic clutch will not re-engage. Eventually, it will not engage at all. In order to narrow the gap to within the .3mm spec, you will either need to remove some of the manufacturer's internal shims or add external shims. Thus the "bread clip" fix was invented by some enterprising DIY individual.

By placing the shims under the rubber spacers that are part of the hub, the springs then push the clutch plate closer to the pulley, thereby narrowing the "clutch gap".

1. Place the car on ramps or otherwise devise a SAFE way to get under the front passenger-side bumper. Then remove the air guide (AKA air dam, gravel guard, etc.). It is held by two bolts - one on each side. It's the large plastic part that covers the front underside of the engine and the radiator.

2. Measure the clutch gap. If you are having the classic symptoms it will likely be .5mm or greater. Classic symptoms are that the AC works great for a few minutes and then blows hot air until you turn it off or turn the engine off for a while. The same thing happens each time you start the car. It may begin as an intermittent problem but gradually gets worse until finally the AC won't come on at all.

3. Decide the appropriate thickness of flat plastic or metal material that will bring the gap back to .3mm. Bread bag clips are popular. I originally used pieces cut from a plastic "For Sale" sign. This time I used sheet metal. Whatever material you use needs to be easy to cut to the desired shape and size.

5. Use a screw driver or other similar implement to place in the space labeled "A" to pry the plate away from the rubber spacer and hub so that you can slide the shim in. You will need three shims. After placing a shim you can just twirl the plate around with your hand to the next spring/spacer. Placing the third shim may be more difficult than the first two because you have removed a lot of the play in the clutch but it is quite doable.

6. Some people put a dab of super glue under the shim. On the post 99 compressor, my opinion is that this is not necessary. On this compressor if you create a large enough shim, the spring will serve to prevent the shim from sliding out from under the rubber spacer. If I recall the pre-99 compressor correctly, it does not provide anything to "hold" the shim like this so super glue may be beneficial in that application.

7. Measure the gap and test the shim before putting the air guide back on. If you turn the air on the plate should engage and spin with the pully. If you turn it off the plate should stop spinning. Take a test drive long enough to assure you that the AC is now working as it should, cycling on and off when it should.

8. Replace the air guide and you're done.

[sbar4660]

Hi Guys,
I have been having this problem for a while now and was just about to spring for a new compressor when I came across this site. I'm hoping to get the garage to de-shim the clutch on Wednesday so hopefully that will solve the problem. Thanks for all your wisdom on this matter. It will have saved me a bob or two hopefully!

[lashunrice]

Hey the reshimming the clutch worked on my 2002 S60! My dad used C@lvin's instructions and it worked! He used some hard plastic (similar to the bread clips) and it worked. Firestone said it was a bad condenser but we tried this ($1100 to replace the condenser and drier). He said it was easy to do. It was a little hard to put the 3/4 plastic "shims" under rubber guards on the hub, but he used is finger nail to get it started and then the screw driver to get it in. Thanks for the tip!

[Dan Hanvey]

Hey Guys,

These fixes sound great - got a question though. I tried pushing my clutch in with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on and coudn't get the clutch to engage.

Had the Freon filled last year and the mechanics did the die/black light test and said there were no leaks.

Any suggestions to what it might be??

[gilhuly]

Yeah, unfortunately you have a leak and you're out of refrigerant most likely. A dye test isn't really the best way to diagnose as not everything, especially the evaporator can be seen viually. Go to an indy garage with a sniffer. They will charge it and sniff the whole system and tell you where the leak is. Evap can be diagnosed through the vents.

[C@lvin]

I didn't have much luck with the broom handle either, but did eventually diagnose the clutch gap as the issue.

Could be low refrigerant but could also be the clutch gap out of spec. Search MVS for instructions to jumper the pressure switch. This should engage the clutch even if the refrigerant is low but do not jumper the switch for very long. If you jumper the switch and the clutch doesn't engage, then it's probably the clutch gap. And/Or you can just measure your gap and see if it's within spec - it's not hard to do.