the pressure tester worked. I found that the leak was in the lower hose that comes off of the IAC and loops up through the intake manifold. I sprayed the hell outta that with both carb cleaner and soapy water, don't know why it didn't show up.
C:\Users\NewUser\Pictures\05231847.jpeg
boost leak? or wastegate issues
- kcodyjr
- Posts: 1236
- Joined: 31 January 2010
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T AWD
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
- Has thanked: 17 times
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It didn't work because, absent real engine load, the intake hoses are at partial vacuum, and suck themselves shut. Your leak was only occuring under positive pressure conditions, ie, when you're in gear and into the pedal - or statically pressurized with a well thought custom-made contraption.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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t5ftw
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 18 May 2010
- Year and Model: 1999
- Location: Virginia, US
- Been thanked: 2 times
When I did my CBV, I only replaced the spring. The stock diaphragm and spring looked new, but I replaced the spring anyway. And that made a noticeable difference. The reason that I did not replace the diaphragm was that the one included in the kit (Mitsubishi kit from ebay) had very weak center catch. It is something that supposed to hold the spring compressed in place until the CBV housing gets bolted back. But it was weak and let spring popping out. So, I had to put the old diaphragm back. Any way the new spring alone made improvement. I noticed that the new spring is slightly taller than the old one (shown in the picture).mojomello wrote:just took off the cbv, and the diaphram seems to be in perfect condition. I'm making a soapy water solution right now and hopefully I'll see some bubbles in an inexpensive, easy to fix area
BTW, mine is 99 S70 T5 with 100K on it.
I am still having boost fading problem. But I had some improvement when I replaced TCV and then more improvement when I replaced CBV spring.
t5ftw wrote:When I did my CBV, I only replaced the spring. The stock diaphragm and spring looked new, but I replaced the spring anyway. And that made a noticeable difference. The reason that I did not replace the diaphragm was that the one included in the kit (Mitsubishi kit from ebay) had very weak center catch. It is something that supposed to hold the spring compressed in place until the CBV housing gets bolted back. But it was weak and let spring popping out. So, I had to put the old diaphragm back. Any way the new spring alone made improvement. I noticed that the new spring is slightly taller than the old one (shown in the picture).
BTW, mine is 99 S70 T5 with 100K on it.
I am still having boost fading problem. But I had some improvement when I replaced TCV and then more improvement when I replaced CBV spring.
Hey,
Do you have any pictures of the Diaphragm replacement? Did you have to remove the turbo? I have a '98 S70, I need to do this repair. Thanks.
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t5ftw
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 18 May 2010
- Year and Model: 1999
- Location: Virginia, US
- Been thanked: 2 times
I did not remove turbo at all.LamboSE5 wrote: Hey,
Do you have any pictures of the Diaphragm replacement? Did you have to remove the turbo? I have a '98 S70, I need to do this repair. Thanks.
I did not change out the old diaphragm. I only replaced the spring. However, you can definitely do them together. I couldn't do diaphragm just because of the quality of new diaphragm.
What I did is as follows
- I lifted the car.
- removed both heat shields and the turbo outlet hose (with pipe)
I removed the lower heat shield (turbo heat shield).
Then, I removed the turbo outlet hose. This will give you full access to
the bolts of another heat shield covering the exhaust manifold.
Then, I removed the upper heat shield.
Heat shield bolts sizes were 13 mm and 12 mm. They were so rusted.
So, I had to use a breaker bar.
Removing the spark plug cover may make it easier to put them back later.
- Now, you can get to the CBV housing. There are three 10 mm bolts
You can access two of them from above.
The other one can be accessed from below. So, this is why I lifted the car.
- However, the bottom bolt is obstructed by a cooling hose.
So I loosened the hose clamp a little bit and slid the hose back about 1/4 inch.
I did not split a drop of any fluid.
This is not difficult job at all although it took me sometime because of the cooling hose blocking the bottom CBV bolt.
Hope this helps.
- Attachments
The picture of the "CBV cover remove" ...The compressed spring sits in the cover with the diaphragm facing out so you cannot see the spring, right?
I had to do this job over a day or two and I cannot remember how it sat back in the housing.
I had to do this job over a day or two and I cannot remember how it sat back in the housing.
The picture of the "CBV cover remove" (above) ...The compressed spring sits in the cover with the diaphragm facing out so you cannot see the spring, right?
I had to do this job over a day or two and I cannot remember how it sat back in the housing.
I already have the cover with the spring + diaphragm as described , just wanted to make sure before I finish bolting it all back together......Thanks for the help...this site is TOPS!!
I had to do this job over a day or two and I cannot remember how it sat back in the housing.
I already have the cover with the spring + diaphragm as described , just wanted to make sure before I finish bolting it all back together......Thanks for the help...this site is TOPS!!
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