Trying to change alternator 2005 XC 90 V8

[wgc2005]

I was able to get a small pry bar on it and wedged it loose. It was rather easy once you know to go slow. I put the end of the bar on the end of the spring housing, and pivoted off of the tensioner pivot. Hard to explain but very easy. I didn't install the new tensioner yet because the 'L' allen wrench I had was not short enough to get in there. I will have to cut the length down. After fighting the alternator, I decided that was work for another weekend since the functionality of the tensioner is still there.

[jimmy57]

The damper feature of the tensioner was a dirty trick. Several makes use that type tensioner on some of their engines and on many there is nothing visual to clue you in on the damper.

[aghadden]

Struggling with my '06 V8. Got the alternator in, but the tensioner won't release far enough to get the belt back on! How can one tell if the tensioner needs to be replaced? Any idea where to get the hex-head tool that will fit into the available space?

[jimmy57]

volvo v8 belt.docx

(155.41 KiB) Downloaded 431 times

I bet you routed the belt wrong if the tensioner is released but belt isn't tight.

[aghadden]

Thanks jimmy,

No, I've checked and rechecked the belt routing. When tensioner is fully released I can't get the belt on when routed correctly (If I re-arrange I can get it on, but I don't want to see what happens). How can I tell if the tensioner isn't releasing to spec? Any help?

[jimmy57]

The belt tensioner on that engine is damped. To get it to move back requires steady pressure and patience as it takes something like 70 ft-lbs force and then 12-15 seconds for it to move fully to the released fully position.

[aghadden]

Thanks. Yes, understand the damping nature of the tensioner. Applying pressure over time is getting the tensioner to release...to a point. It is roughly 70 degrees, and then stops and won't release further. At this amount of release, the belt will not quite fit back on. Another 10 degrees or 1.5 inches of belt would do it. Or if I re-routed the belt so each idler were contacted immediately before and after the crank it would fit. But fully-released and correctly routed, it won't go back on. How can I tell if the tensioner is bad?