Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[Yehuda]

My faulty ETM i tried to fix by myself

direct links

or

[precopster]

Wow great pics of what is a total piece of rubbish made by Magnetti Marelli!!

It's great what some resourcefulness and about 60 hours can achieve!! What was the outcome?

Are you aware of the non-contacting solution provided by XeModex??

[Yehuda]

Firstly you were almost right about time i have wasted, it was More.

i thought it was something with the magnet, so i played with it---solder it, desolder it and vice versa X20 times (that's why you don't see the legs of it--they broke).

then i tried to solder the contacts of the black caps, thought they didn't make contact also did that X20 times or more.

finally went to the WWW, saw don's website and this forum, checked that film resistor------you know the rest!

I'm aware of the non-contacting of XeModex, but out of resources, so i'm giving a try to sacer ltd if you heard about them.

they also have a contactless solution, they sell only the black caps, i bought 4 (min req) for $300, maybe i'll get them next week, then i'll get back to business

BTW now i see that the picture are not fully seen, the direct link is better.

[firstv70volvo]

Hi Yehuda,

I’ve also spent far too many hours attempting to fix the Magneti Marelli ETM and finally did have some success. I’ve been using the repaired ETM for more than 5,000 miles now. I used an off-the-shelf Vishay throttle position sensor and modified the housing and ETM side plate to make it work.

After studying this ETM for some time now I can say any do-it-yourself fixes have to been done with 100% reliability in mind. This is definitely not a simple do-it-yourself repair job. The ETM is a crucial safety component and while many criticize the original ETM design it does have complete redundancy with two independent throttle position sensors. From what I’ve read if one sensor signal is lost there will be reduced performance but if both throttle position sensors signals are lost or corrupted the throttle drive motor shuts down completely and there is very limited power (fast idle) and no throttle control.

Replacing the original sensors with a non-contact type does improve the reliability of the sensor a great deal because there’s nothing to wear but if the non-contact electronic sensor were to fail it would be the equivalent of having no valid throttle position signal and the throttle drive motor would shut down. From what I’ve learned and what I’ve seen with other non-contact sensor repairs, the sensor can only be placed on the side opposite the drive motor due to magnetic interference of the motor affecting the sensor . One non-contact sensor can have dual outputs and dual sensors in one package to improve reliability but it’s still not full redundancy with a single power source and wiring. My opinion (for what it’s worth) is a high quality automotive grade non-contact electronic sensor (like the Vishay sensor) is as reliable as all the other electronics in the ETM, which also doesn’t have full redundancy. Let us know how things go when you get the new Sacer parts. If you have any questions with the repair I may be able to help with some aspects of it so let me know.

[Yehuda]

Hi, sorry for the late reply.

so actually my original ETM has been permanently damaged by me.

i bought an used s80 ETM, it worked, but with higher rpm and didn't shift gears at the right time and pedal doesn't feels as before, it responds strange i need to press it more than before.

SO i bought the exect PN and exect model and year, now shifting gears (automatic of course) works good, pedal respond good also, but engine shakes at idle, has high rpm and when starting the car rpm goes to 2500-3000 for 5sec and than to 1100-1200 and engine shakes.

i thought one of the TPS was bad (the famous resistor problem) opened it up and yes! the resistor was wear (a see through), so i tried the non-contact tps from sacer --- same symptoms. so actually the sacer tps is good because the car is driveing good, no limp home mode, reduced performence or error codes.

today i'll take it to the dealer for ETM RELOAD, hope it will do the trick because i can't see anything else that is causing this problems.

I cross fingers.

[firstv70volvo]

Yehuda, I have a couple of questions about the TPS replacement you did; how did you adjust the the TPS voltage when you installed the new sensor and what did you do about the second sensor on the other side of the ETM? With the problems you're still having I suspect the new TPS voltage levels are not close enough to the original sensor levels or, the new TPS sensor is only supplying an output voltage for one TPS sensor and the other original sensor output is not matching well with the new sensor. Did the new software download help?

From the ETM TPS voltages I've measured (3 ETMs) the fully closed voltage was between 0.58V to 0.65V and between 4.5V to 4.7V fully open and approximately 1.39V after the ETM powers up and goes to the default postion which is about 20% open. The typical range for most 90 degree throtlle postion sensors appears to be from 0.5V to 4.5V. When I replaced the original TPS I tried to match the original fully close voltage level I measued with the new sensor since this voltage level is nearest to the idle voltage needed. During the first start up my idle was rough but it compensated the slight difference in voltage from the original and now idles very smoothly and steady too. I suspect you can be off some with the idle voltage as compared to the orginal sensor but it needs to be close. Also, how did you wire the new sensor? There are two TPS sensors outputs orginally and these sensor outputs track each other (from what I've measured) so each ouput needs to match the other output. I routed the single output from the Visahy sensor I used to both sides. The link below is what I did with the Vishay sensor. Let me know how things go.

http://www.box.net/shared/qc8t8352od

[Yehuda]

YESSSSSSSS the ETM SOFTWARE RELOAD did work, now the car is stable at idle, does Not shake and gives good pedal feedback, well it's EVEN BETTER than before problems started, i guess it's because of the wear resistor the i had on the first ETM.

actually i bought the used ETM on ebay, when i exchanged the tps with the contactless tps, i saw that this ETM has wear resistor also (look at the picture), how much time would you gave it till the ETM had fail? but, now with the contactless tps it should be good for very long time, or forever i think.

i didn't measured voltages, so i can't tell.

i didn't took pictures of the job, i was too excited to see it works, but i now have the used s80 ETM that didn't worked well as the current used s60 ETM, so i'll install the contactless tps on it too, and sell it to "Reduce losses". i'll take pics on this project.

by the calculation i did, i spent on this ETM problem more than $1000: $400 on 4 contactless TPS, $200*2 ETMs + $150 taxes and $200*3 on ETM software reload, that only the last time has succeeded. if i had to buy new one from the dealer i had to pay 5000 NIS($1,462.31) + $300 labor and software + 16% VAT.

so i saved some bucks by fix it myself, without mention the time it took me. so in second thought maybe i didn't saved anything at all

[firstv70volvo]

Good to hear the ETM software reload fixed the remaining problems. You may have not saved any money but you deserve a lot of credit for replacing the TPS and successfully repairing this ETM, not an easy task. Nice work Yehuda.

[Yehuda]

OK, as i promised here are PART 1 pictures of the NON-CONTACT TPS installation.

i'll add more pictures of the actual new TPS installation next time: "PART 2" if you like

[JRL]

NEGOTIATE
I can buy a NEW throttle body from the dealer for about $525 (US) and be done with it
$40 for software then give one of the techs $10 to load it after work!