I've mentioned a cable I made when I replaced the SC-816 in my 850R with an SC-901 and C70 4x100w Amp, and promised a write-up for a long time. I've finally pulled everything out to take pictures and will try to explain it as clearly as possible.
First off, our goal...
To make the above happen, I went to the junkyard and cut out the factory radio plugs (harness) going back about six inches. These are the black plugs on the left. Next, I purchase the aftermarket wiring harness that you would normally wire together with your aftermarket radio and plug into the factory wiring harnesses.
Here's where it gets tricky (only, NOT)... instead of wiring the aftermarket harness to a new radio plug, I wired it back into the factory harnesses I got from the junkyard! I followed the color guide that I got with the aftermarket harnesses and matched each wire to its factory wire equivalent and then crimped them with butt connectors (hehe) and shrink-wrapped each individual connection. The astute reader will notice that I have a big, solid shrink-wrap over everything. If you'd like to end up with this (it sure looks clean, doesn't it?), then make sure you slide that shrink-wrap down the entire wire bundle OR that your big shrink-wrap will fit over the smaller factory plug.
Here's where it gets even trickier (only, again, NOT)... I didn't wire the speaker wires to anything! I just crimped on a female bullet connector (use whatever type you prefer). Later, I cut speaker wire for all four channels to the length needed to reach the Amp under the passenger seat and I crimped bullet connectors onto one end of the wire and spades (for the amp) onto the other.
Here's my speaker wire bundle...
If you've just read through this and thought, "Gee, this seems simple," then all I can say is you're right! But, combing the junkyards takes time and crimping and shrink-wrapping everything cleanly leads to a nice finished product.
Now, really, really astute readers will look at the first picture and say, "Hey! There's a loose wire there!" That's right, there is. I actually ADDED that wire in by cracking open another factory wire harness and pulling that wire out with its little metal connector intact and then I inserted it into this harness. Everything I read tells me that this wire will allow me to send the head unit a signal to go into TELEPHONE mode. I never tested this, but I had grand plans to purchase a Parrot bluetooth phone interface and wire it directly into the system so that call audio was routed over the speakers and the head unit would mute and display "TELEPHONE" on the display whenever the Parrot unit was active.
Curious readers will probably point out that in the first picture one of the factory harnesses only has ONE WIRE connected and the rest are folder over and shrink-wrapped. Yes, that's true. All the folded wires are the speaker connections from the head unit. SC-901s don't have onboard amps and we have to leave these disconnected so we can "insert" our amplified speaker signals into the car-side of this harness. This was the WHOLE POINT of this write-up, after all. Now, that one wire that is connected? I totally forget what it was. I think it was illumination dimming or something similarly neat but not show-stopping.
Readers with cat-like curiosity might even ask, "Why are the two aftermarket harnesses linked together like a daisy chain?" Well, those white and grey wires are for the door and dash speakers which are powered by the same channel in the SC-816 head-unit. It LOOKS like they plug in to completely separate places on the back of the SC-816 - I mean, geez! they're even on different plugs! - but they're wired together internally in the head unit. This is a good thing to note, though, if your car audio plans include using a six-channel amp or something else to allow the door and dash speakers to be powered independently - just cut those wires and hook them up to your individual amp channels. The rear door and deck/D-Pillar speakers are wired together in the back of the car and you'd be better off just running new wires to them if you want to power them separately. Don't think I haven't thought of getting an old-school 8-channel SoundStream or ADS amp and doing just this!
By the way, the fundamentals of this cable - breaking out speaker wires from the factory harness path - can be applied to aftermarket systems with external amplifiers as well, you just wouldn't need factory harnesses from the junkyard.
Questions? Corrections? All are welcome.
Breakout cable to add an Amp to P80 cars - audio centipede
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Breakout Cable to Add Amp to P80 cars - Audio Centipede
- matthew1
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Questions? Corrections? Sorry, none. Why?
You just blew my mind. You're one of those people where car audio makes sense to them
. It just never clicked for me. Resistance, pressure, etc. I just never understood.
I'm going to move this to the 850 forum where it'll get more views. And maybe some questions and corrections. Just not from me.
You just blew my mind. You're one of those people where car audio makes sense to them
I'm going to move this to the 850 forum where it'll get more views. And maybe some questions and corrections. Just not from me.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
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- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
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Thanks! I hope I didn't gloss over anything. If anyone wants more detail on the specific wiring, there's a great page over at VS.
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... inout.html
This layout is taken from a 1995 schematic, I will check newer schematics to see if the lay out and wire colors have changed. 16/1 is the circuit designation for the two connectors.
The two connectors are further broken down to "A" for the 14 pin (larger) connector and "B" for the 10 pin (smaller) connector. Lead colors are shown by letters:
SB = Black, GR = Gray,W = White, R = Red, BN = Brown, Y = Yellow, P = Pink, BL = Blue, GN = Green, OR = Orange, VO = Violet
1A = Dash Left Speaker +
2A = Dash Left Speaker -
3A = Antenna +
4A = Battery + 12V
5A = Not used
6A = Ground
7A = Dash Right Speaker +
8A = Dash Right Speaker -
9A = Not used (Telephone Mute - see post 39 here)
10A = Rheostat +
11A = Rheostat Ground
12A Battery + 12V
13A = ACC +
14A = Ground
Breaking down the 10 pin "B" connector:
1B = Left Rear Speaker -
2B = Left Rear Speaker +
3B = Left Front Door Speaker -
4B = Left Front Door Speaker +
5B = Right Rear Speaker -
6B = Right Rear Speaker +
7B = Not used
8B = Not used
9B = Right Front Door Speaker -
10B = Right Front Door Speaker +
The rear speaker wires supply the rear hat shelf and door speakers if installed, wire coloring is the same for the hat shelf and the rear door speakers.[/color]
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... inout.html
This layout is taken from a 1995 schematic, I will check newer schematics to see if the lay out and wire colors have changed. 16/1 is the circuit designation for the two connectors.
The two connectors are further broken down to "A" for the 14 pin (larger) connector and "B" for the 10 pin (smaller) connector. Lead colors are shown by letters:
SB = Black, GR = Gray,W = White, R = Red, BN = Brown, Y = Yellow, P = Pink, BL = Blue, GN = Green, OR = Orange, VO = Violet
To further break down the 14 pin "A" connector:ojdorson wrote:Wires are either solid or striped. Striped wires are denoted by one color code, a dash and the stripe color code. R-W = Red wire with a White stripe, R-SB = Red wire with a Black stripe.
1A = Dash Left Speaker +
2A = Dash Left Speaker -
3A = Antenna +
4A = Battery + 12V
5A = Not used
6A = Ground
7A = Dash Right Speaker +
8A = Dash Right Speaker -
9A = Not used (Telephone Mute - see post 39 here)
10A = Rheostat +
11A = Rheostat Ground
12A Battery + 12V
13A = ACC +
14A = Ground
Breaking down the 10 pin "B" connector:
1B = Left Rear Speaker -
2B = Left Rear Speaker +
3B = Left Front Door Speaker -
4B = Left Front Door Speaker +
5B = Right Rear Speaker -
6B = Right Rear Speaker +
7B = Not used
8B = Not used
9B = Right Front Door Speaker -
10B = Right Front Door Speaker +
The rear speaker wires supply the rear hat shelf and door speakers if installed, wire coloring is the same for the hat shelf and the rear door speakers.[/color]
- matthew1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14460
- Joined: 14 September 2002
- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
- Location: Denver, Colorado, US
- Has thanked: 2650 times
- Been thanked: 1240 times
- Contact:
I'll put this in the Repair Database... in one sentence, how would you describe what it helps you do*? Or two or three sentences, whatever it takes to describe it.
* Yea, I'm that bad with audio.
* Yea, I'm that bad with audio.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
- Joined: 14 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
- Been thanked: 3 times
This cable makes adding an amp to your car while keeping the Volvo head unit really simple (if you can't find the proper wiring harness at the junkyard). If you got a Volvo amplifier, then you still need the Volvo DIN Amp cable (or wire your own!). If you are adding an aftermarket amplifier, then you need to make a DIN-RCA breakout cable. Write-ups for this exist and I can't do any better than this one... http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/39 ... s-writeup/
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burnout8488
- Posts: 504
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- Year and Model: 1999 S70 AWD
- Location: Endwell, NY
Now that this thread refreshed my memory about the Parrot bluetooth product existing, you may see an addendum to this in the future from me once I take possession of this harness. I may end up adding aftermarket bluetooth, and if I do, I'll use the telephone mute feature and see how it works.
'13 BMW X1 35i M-Sport
'99 S70 AWD/FWD - 198K - FOR SALE!
'99 S70 AWD/FWD - 198K - FOR SALE!
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
- Joined: 14 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
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That'd be great! I found plenty of units that would do it and it'd be AWESOME to have had it integrated with the mute function on the head unit. Since I have an iPhone, I just solved it by getting a TomTom iPhone Dock with enhanced GPS and a bluetooth speakerphone. This worked perfectly when listening to stuff from the iPhone through the radio, but I had to mute or turn off the radio if I got calls when listening to FM/CD.burnout8488 wrote:Now that this thread refreshed my memory about the Parrot bluetooth product existing, you may see an addendum to this in the future from me once I take possession of this harness. I may end up adding aftermarket bluetooth, and if I do, I'll use the telephone mute feature and see how it works.
hello, i guess I may be a little behind the learning curve, but my question is where does everything plug into? where do the junkyard factory plugs go? what does the harness plug into? the back of the HU? I would be very grateful if you would revisit your post and walk me thru it. Thanks!
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ojdorson
- Posts: 322
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- Year and Model: 850R, 1996
- Location: Chicago, IL
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Once you've made the harness, you'll have something like the first picture.
The two connectors on the left are the junkyard factory connectors - they'll plug into the proper places on the back of the head unit. The two connectors on the right are the aftermarket connectors - they'll plug into the wiring behind the radio (connectors identical to the junkyard connectors).
The "loose" wires with the bullet connectors will connect to the speaker wire output terminals on an amp - factory amp or aftermarket, doesn't matter.
Ask more questions if you need, I'll do my best to answer and I'm sure someone else will come along looking for this info.
The two connectors on the left are the junkyard factory connectors - they'll plug into the proper places on the back of the head unit. The two connectors on the right are the aftermarket connectors - they'll plug into the wiring behind the radio (connectors identical to the junkyard connectors).
The "loose" wires with the bullet connectors will connect to the speaker wire output terminals on an amp - factory amp or aftermarket, doesn't matter.
Ask more questions if you need, I'll do my best to answer and I'm sure someone else will come along looking for this info.
- 800artfreed
- Posts: 143
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- Year and Model: 98 S70T5; 99 S70GLt
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Just wondering how you mounted the 400 w amp under the seat. It seems too large to fit. Was it a manual or power adjustment type seat? What did you use for the mounting bracket? I previously installed the 50 watt amp in my v70 with a SC-900. Looking forward to installing the SC-901 and amplifier I just pulled from a C70 into my 1999 S70-GLT.
VolvoVoyeur
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