Silverstar bulbs

[ojdorson]

The PIAA bulbs I got ($15, shipped off eBay) are definitely a massive improvement over what I threw out. Also, with them adjusted properly, the beam illuminates the road much further ahead than most ever other car I've driven.
If you're correct, then I'll see an even MORE MASSIVE improvement if I switch to those Narva's, yeah? I can't wait!

For me, for now, the e-code lenses plus the $15 PIAA bulbs are such a massive huge improvement that I'm ecstatic about the gain-to-cost ratio. Especially since I was replacing a broken lens and would have incurred that cost without even "upgrading."

I wish someone would send me a set of Narva's - I'd be glad to take comparison pictures at night.

[zhenya]

so zhenya, thanks for offering advice, what is your position on e-code lenses for headlights?

The problem with mixing lenses is that the lens is designed for the specific reflector, and the reflector is designed for a specific bulb. Mixing parts will end up with wonky output. Euro-spec lamps use an H1 bulb, which, while still using the same basic axial filament design as the 9006 US-spec low beams, are physically much smaller. This means that their position when mounted in the reflector is going to be set back much further than a 9006. Also, the 9006 uses a black front bulb cap to reduce forward glare, while the H1 does not. Of course the H1 reflector and lens design is produced with this in mind, but it is another example of how the two systems differ.

Lastly, the typical aftermarket euro lenses purchased in the US are made by Scan-Tech - a purveyor of lower-quality Chinese-made parts which includes everything from control arms and bushings, to lighting - none of it made all that well. The optics of a lighting system are extremely complex, and that's why lamps made from the reputable companies - Valeo, Hella, Cibie, etc. cost real money.

The reality is that of all the lighting faux-pas people make, this one is relatively innocuous. It probably isn't blinding other drivers, it's just that it's not doing yourself much good, either. I actually have a set myself, which I used for some time, but eventually realized that I could not aim my low beams properly, and that was what ultimately led me to figure out what was going on.

[BEJinFbk]

For me? The cheap ScanCrap Ecodes on my DOT housings with SS Ultras Just Work Better.
With the stock stuff, I couldn't see. SS's helped. E-codes helped a great deal more!
Now I can actually SEE with my lows and see even better with the highs.
And FWIW - I've never been flashed.

I also find myself wondering if there's any real difference between E-code and DOT reflectors.
Most corporations, even Volvo, usually take note that it costs money to change things.
If the same part can be used twice, the bean counters ( Even Swedes! )will make it happen.
I would almost bet my favorite socks that those reflectors are the same. Money talks...
If the E-code "city lights" are in there, that may mean a hole somewhere, but I'd really
prefer to see a side by side of the reflector geometry before I made a solid call.

Again, for me at least, the FCP E-codes and Silver Stars are Money Well Spent.

[Red-Arrow]

Marketing beats logic any day of the week it seems.

Coated bulbs remove a portion of the light spectrum. Nobody understand what this means?

PIAA are charging a hell of a lot of money for nothing. They put out nonsense like 55w output 85w.

55w from a filament bulb is nothing even close to 5 watts of light energy! so what the fricassee are they talking about 85 watt output. From what I remember not even 1% is converted into light with 99% being turned into heat.

The future is LED bulbs like the CREE 5 bulbs with zoom lenses. These can turn into spots or flood lights in an instant and consume a small fraction of the power used by normal bulbs.

Do not waste your money on expensive bulbs. Clean your reflectors and lenses.

[erikv11]

Clean your reflectors and lenses.

Clean the lenses yes, but clean the reflectors are you sure about that? I have always read to never ever ever touch the reflective surface, do not even think about cleaning it except to blow dust from it.

Looking forward to the day when it is all done with LEDs, lighting will be so much more reliable.

[BEJinFbk]

Marketing beats logic any day of the week it seems.

Um...What? My lights were crap. I did some research and improved them.
Marketing had nothing to do with it. Sure - There's lots of sales hype.
There is also a wealth of user info out there for those willing to look.

Coated bulbs remove a portion of the light spectrum. Nobody understand what this means?

We're talking about Silver Stars here, not the cheap, coated stuff from parts unknown.
Have you seen or used them? 4300K is actually pretty "white". The filtering is not severe.

PIAA are charging a hell of a lot of money for nothing. They put out nonsense like 55w output 85w.

55w from a filament bulb is nothing even close to 5 watts of light energy! so what the fricassee are they talking about 85 watt output. From what I remember not even 1% is converted into light with 99% being turned into heat.

AGAIN - This is a SS thread - Not PIAA. And as a rule of thumb, incandecent lamps are more like 10% efficient.
Not awesome, but very much the norm.

The future is LED bulbs like the CREE 5 bulbs with zoom lenses. These can turn into spots or flood lights in an instant and consume a small fraction of the power used by normal bulbs.

Sure! Of course LED's are more efficient. And they cost a TON of money at this point...
Now, what was that you were saying about wasting money?

Do not waste your money on expensive bulbs. Clean your reflectors and lenses.

Lenses? Sure. They're just glass. But the reflectors are front mirrored plastic and will scratch VERY easily.
One that happens, you're looking at new headlight housings. There's that money thing again...

The real point here is that talking lighting is a lot like talking speakers.
As stated above, it's a subjective thing. Get what works for YOU.
After all - You're buyin'.

[peacock]

a great way to extend life is change your headlight switch to position C so they can be off during the day!

[jblackburn]

Honestly, I like leaving the DRL on. Bulbs are easy to change, and the added peace of mind helps me justify replacing a headlight or taillight bulb every now and then.

[BEJinFbk]

Honestly, I like leaving the DRL on. Bulbs are easy to change, and the added peace of mind helps me justify replacing a headlight or taillight bulb every now and then.

I'm right there with ya, Justin. Mine are on Forever.
If I'm out on the road, I want to Be Seen!

It's pretty much the cheapest insurance out there, next being to
being aware of what's going on around you and driving defensively.
Know what's going on around you, Be Seen, Be Predictable, Be Polite!

And to 90% of the drivers around Fairbanks...
WOULD IT KILL YOU TO USE YOUR TURN SIGNALS !?!?!

OK...Now I'm good...
Thanks for the chance to vent.

[instarx]

I'm not saying that the Silverstar bulbs aren't better than what you had in there before, I'm saying that by design, they must put out less light than their non-coated counterparts. You can't filter a portion of the light and end up with MORE light than you started with!

True, but you CAN filter out some of the wavelengths and see further. I'm not saying the Silverstars do that, but it does not violate the laws of physics that some wavelengths are more easily reflected from fog, dust, water vapor, etc., and removing those wavelengths can give better vision.

It is true that if you take two identical bulbs and coat one of them there will be less total light output, but are the Silverstars exactly identical to other bulbs without the coating? Dunno. So I don't think it is fair to say they must put out less light than their counterpart uncoated bulbs. All that can be said is that a coated Silverstar will put out less total light than an uncoated Silverstar bulb (if there is such a thing).