bob s wrote:
"....i think the throttle plate gets sludge deposits and it doesn't have proper clearances around the throttle bore. when the oxygen sensor is reading the exhaust emissions it then tells the computer how to adjust the air/fuel ratio.."
I think you hit the nail on the head here bob. My thinking too and this is a heck of a lot cheaper cleaning the ETM and vicinity elbows/hoses than having it replaced. I've been using bolt lubricant myself because that is what I had lying around the garage.
I'm getting about 3 months in between ETM cleanings now.
Official Engine Stalling Thread
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Secondary Air Injection System Diagram
-
Francis
Since doing this back in Sept. my car has not stalled once, I plan to clean the tb again in the spring. 1994 850 212000
Francis wrote:I found the tb cleaning, new fuel pump relay, along with replacing several rubber elbows throughout the vacum lines to have fixed my stalling problem. When pulling the throttle body out I noticed several cracked elbows including the two connected to the tb. My car seems to have more umffff now, it's been a week since making these repairs.![]()
Now who has replaced thier own pnp switch
-
bobs,2nd posting
mine hasn't stalled either since cleaning mine(i also fixed 3 small cracked vacuum line in my original fix).
i've been thinking more about volvo owners saying that their dash light went on ,which would happen if your car stalled,even when driving at highway speed, you may have thought it was running when u were actually just coasting, mine would do that when i was cruising on the highway at 65mph,i couldn't feel the stall,just saw the dash light come on and when i pushed the gas pedal ,nothing , but i knew it was stalled,when in reality i was just rolling and would eventually roll to a stop
another owner stated that the car was in cruise control setting, the same stall could very easily happen then also, when your car is set in cruise control and your car is set to maintain a certain speed that you set, any time the car reaches that speed or you may hit a decline grade in the road and your car wants to speed up, then your car will ease up on the gas. it like the same thing as taking your foot off the gas pedal when driving on the highway and you find your speed increasing.
when the throttle closes because of the dirty throttle bore i believe the car is not getting the right amount of AIR. i think what is happening is that the car is running and your foot is only the gas and all of a sudden you take your foot off and the proper amount of AIR can't get into the intake (because of the dirty throttle bore) that the car is actually flooding from the gas, that would also be why the car won't start for 10 minutes after, i would bet that after the car stalled and you took out a spark plug you would find it wet with gas.
has anyone ever put there hand over the air intake on a carburator of a running lawn mower? it stalls instantly. same principle i belive is happening with these random stalls
i've been thinking more about volvo owners saying that their dash light went on ,which would happen if your car stalled,even when driving at highway speed, you may have thought it was running when u were actually just coasting, mine would do that when i was cruising on the highway at 65mph,i couldn't feel the stall,just saw the dash light come on and when i pushed the gas pedal ,nothing , but i knew it was stalled,when in reality i was just rolling and would eventually roll to a stop
another owner stated that the car was in cruise control setting, the same stall could very easily happen then also, when your car is set in cruise control and your car is set to maintain a certain speed that you set, any time the car reaches that speed or you may hit a decline grade in the road and your car wants to speed up, then your car will ease up on the gas. it like the same thing as taking your foot off the gas pedal when driving on the highway and you find your speed increasing.
when the throttle closes because of the dirty throttle bore i believe the car is not getting the right amount of AIR. i think what is happening is that the car is running and your foot is only the gas and all of a sudden you take your foot off and the proper amount of AIR can't get into the intake (because of the dirty throttle bore) that the car is actually flooding from the gas, that would also be why the car won't start for 10 minutes after, i would bet that after the car stalled and you took out a spark plug you would find it wet with gas.
has anyone ever put there hand over the air intake on a carburator of a running lawn mower? it stalls instantly. same principle i belive is happening with these random stalls
-
voltech1
- Posts: 76
- Joined: 7 February 2006
- Year and Model: 2000 V70R
- Location: S E
- Has thanked: 2 times
850 with intermittent dying/hard starting can have cracked solder joints in fuel system relays. Check fuel system relay under fuse panel (four T-25 TORX) it is 103 or J relay I cannot remember. Also check main fuel SYSTEM relay on top of radiator (next to cooling fan relay) the cracks are hairline and hard to spot in some cases.
S/V/C70 cars with electrical issues and hard starting can have corroded B+
cables. Check front fuse panel for copper colored wire connection it should be bright and clean, if not replace it.
All 1999-2001 cars with ETM and your car is dying while driving go directly to the dealership and get it cleaned/fixed. They are under waranty for 10 years 200k miles and can leave you stranded in oncoming traffic if not taken care of.
S/V/C70 cars with electrical issues and hard starting can have corroded B+
cables. Check front fuse panel for copper colored wire connection it should be bright and clean, if not replace it.
All 1999-2001 cars with ETM and your car is dying while driving go directly to the dealership and get it cleaned/fixed. They are under waranty for 10 years 200k miles and can leave you stranded in oncoming traffic if not taken care of.
96 855 turbo 235k
00' v70r 156k w/blown motor
00' v70r 156k w/blown motor
My 95 850 turbo wagon was stalling at any speed, on or off the fuel pedal. I read as much as I could here and decided to target all likely issues. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and the relay. It has been many months now and not a single stall. Which one was it? I have no idea, but the money was well spent and the work was not hard to do at all. Being crunched into the back of the car working on the pump was no fun, but anyone with some skill level can get it done. Read the service manual and this site and it will go well. One point is to keep an eye on the gasket for swelling if you intend on re-using the old one(it was rubber on mine). The terminal wires on the pump did not like coming off after many years in the tank. Be careful there too, I had to put a new connector on. The lines were all quick disconnect for the pump and the filter. The filter was just inside the right rear wheel well. Only issue there was the bolt holding the filter in the braket broke, easy fix by simply attaching another nut and bolt with a lock washer. I left all of the covers off on the inside for a couple of days jsut to check for leaks. I also kept a close eye on the filter for leaks for a day or two as well. Nothing leaked and all is well with the stalling issue. Now I have to pursue the front end wobble and put new struts in the front end....good luck with your stalling issues......without this website life would not be the same, thanks Mathew and all who give input.
-
Graysailor
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 16 February 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: arkansas
Mine has been doing this for several years.javascript:emoticon(':(')
I've read the posts. I'll go check what my mechanic has done and replaced and then compare my notes from this site against that information, and try what he hasn't, since it occurred last week.
It seems to happen, like once or twice a day for one day, and then not again for up to a month. Sometimes when I'm de-accelerating - coming to a stop light (there is one in particular I've actually thought about avoiding) but many times as I'm just cruising down the road from 30 to 60 mph, everything lights up, no power or radio - just coasting all of the sudden. I pull over, and try to restart, generally it won't restart immediately and after reading the posts it seems like it would be best to let it sit for about a minute before trying.
I've read the posts. I'll go check what my mechanic has done and replaced and then compare my notes from this site against that information, and try what he hasn't, since it occurred last week.
It seems to happen, like once or twice a day for one day, and then not again for up to a month. Sometimes when I'm de-accelerating - coming to a stop light (there is one in particular I've actually thought about avoiding) but many times as I'm just cruising down the road from 30 to 60 mph, everything lights up, no power or radio - just coasting all of the sudden. I pull over, and try to restart, generally it won't restart immediately and after reading the posts it seems like it would be best to let it sit for about a minute before trying.
-
Wolverine Fan
- Posts: 42
- Joined: 20 March 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: Janesville, WI
Same problem, '94 850 with 152,000 miles. About 3 weeks ago, car began to stall momentarily, mostly at highway speeds anywhere from 55-75. Recently started stalling at lower speeds too, today died while idling and won't restart.
Had it into the mechanic, no codes from the engine analyzer, they suggested a full tuneup, fuel filter, $750 total. I told them they were nuts to suggest me spending that money for their guess of what the problem was. I need to find a new mechanic.
Purchased a fuel pump relay from dealer and will try that first.
Had it into the mechanic, no codes from the engine analyzer, they suggested a full tuneup, fuel filter, $750 total. I told them they were nuts to suggest me spending that money for their guess of what the problem was. I need to find a new mechanic.
Purchased a fuel pump relay from dealer and will try that first.
-
Wolverine Fan
- Posts: 42
- Joined: 20 March 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: Janesville, WI
Update: Fuel pump relay replacement didn't work. Original was green with "103" stamped on the top. Replacement is red with "103" on top. Vehicle is now being towed to repair shop. Will update with what they find.
-
Wolverine Fan
- Posts: 42
- Joined: 20 March 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: Janesville, WI
Just spoke with my mechanic. As of 5:30pm last night right before towing, the car would not start. When turning the key, it would crank but appeared as if no fuel was being delivered so I had the car towed to the mechanic.
Lo and behold, this morning the mechanic went out and the car started right up. They have had the car all day and have not been able to duplicate the problem.
They are going to hold the car the rest of the day and into tomorrow to see if they can get it to fail. Up until 2-3 weeks ago, this car was great, now I'm ready to shoot it and my bankbook is suffering too. The dealer charged me $90 for a fuel pump relay, along with the $135 diagnostic charge I paid 1 week ago and the latest diagnostic charge today, plus $70 for towing!!!!!
Lo and behold, this morning the mechanic went out and the car started right up. They have had the car all day and have not been able to duplicate the problem.
They are going to hold the car the rest of the day and into tomorrow to see if they can get it to fail. Up until 2-3 weeks ago, this car was great, now I'm ready to shoot it and my bankbook is suffering too. The dealer charged me $90 for a fuel pump relay, along with the $135 diagnostic charge I paid 1 week ago and the latest diagnostic charge today, plus $70 for towing!!!!!
-
Wolverine Fan
- Posts: 42
- Joined: 20 March 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: Janesville, WI
Picked up my car from the mechanic today, he drove it around for a day and a half with no stalling issues. Another diagnostic showed no codes, he's stumped.
After I picked it up, I was pulling into the parking lot at work and the car stalled! Luckily, it started back up again. I think someone has a voodoo model of my car and is playing with me!!!
Anyway, I'm going to start changing out parts one by one based on the suggestions from this thread until I find out what the issue is.
So far, up to $370 in various diagnostic fees and towing, plus $90 for the fuel pump relay.......I need a second job to support my Volvo habit.
After I picked it up, I was pulling into the parking lot at work and the car stalled! Luckily, it started back up again. I think someone has a voodoo model of my car and is playing with me!!!
Anyway, I'm going to start changing out parts one by one based on the suggestions from this thread until I find out what the issue is.
So far, up to $370 in various diagnostic fees and towing, plus $90 for the fuel pump relay.......I need a second job to support my Volvo habit.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






