Volvo V70 XC AWD Fuel Gauge

Post by **schmidm90** » 09 May 2011, 05:44

I recently replaced the fuel pump in my 2000 Volvo V70 Cross Country AWD. I cut the hole through the floor rather than dropping the rear axle, tanks etc... I took the old fuel pump out, put the new one in and it started right up! The car had about half a tank in it so the following day I decided to fill it to check for any leaks etc. I put 15.8 gallons into it and the fuel gauge said I still have almost 5 gallons in it. According to my manual it has a 17.1gallon tank so the math doesnt add up. I checked the part number on the dealer website and it is the correct pump for my car. I was wondering if maybe the pump needs to be aligned a certain way or reset itself when I fill it up? I still have 3/4s of a tank now so I will fill it again when the gauge gets lower and see if the problem figures itself out.

I am averaging 20 mpg and I have about 130 miles so far on the tank. It says I can do almost 280 more according to the computer.

http://www.scantechproducts.com/carpart ... p-unit.php This is the pump I installed. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Post by **VCA** » 09 May 2011, 07:32

Reinstalling a fuel pump on an AWD P80 series car requires the use of a counterhold. I'm hoping that with a picture of the tool and the procedure graphic, you can figure out how to line up your fuel pump unit. It's likely that the pump is turned from its normal position and you're getting incorrect fuel level. I've never done a fuel pump on an AWD P80 series vehicle, so I can't offer first-hand knowledge. Hopefully this gets you going again.

Post by **schmidm90** » 24 Jul 2011, 09:23

So the fuel pump I bought failed(Scantech....) I am replacing it again tomorrow with a Volvo One and will hopefully do a full nice write-up on it. If I had done some more research on this site before buying parts I never would have gone with Scantech.... Thanks for all the help.

Post by **jimmy57** » 24 Jul 2011, 10:36

The LH fuel level sensor is added in series to the RH one. The harnesses can be plugged in wrong easily and it leaves out the LH one. When you do the pump (again) if you do not see any problems with the sender/pump orientation then look to be sure the harnesses are plugged in correctly.

I think the description of ScanTech parts leaves out an important point: they are practice parts. You install them and figure out the best procedures for installing that component and then when the Scantech component's "practice" lifespan is over you get to do the same job again with much higher confidence with a MUCH better part.

What I don't understand is how do you make an electric fuel pump that lasts only 2 months? I guess maybe the brushes were actually pencil leads....

Post by **schmidm90** » 24 Jul 2011, 12:21

I like your method of thinking "practice parts...". I will check those when I install them. It should be installed so the pump and level indicator go up and down vertically correct? Thats how I have it installed now and it is accurate until I have about 1 gallon left and it says I have 2... Hopefully a new pump should correct this problem otherwise I will check the other side indicator and see what the issue is.. Thanks again for the response!! Detailed write up to follow!!

Post by **schmidm90** » 28 Jul 2011, 09:13

So I was successful in installing the new pump and am going to re-orient it a little and see if it is more accurate. Is there a possibility that if the left sending unit is malfunctioning that I can just unplug it? I really would like my fuel gauge to be accurate again. Thanks for all the input!

Post by **schmidm90** » 25 Aug 2011, 16:48

Hello again! So I have my nice new Volvo Fuel Pump installed and it is working great so far. I was wondering if you really fill/top off your tank in the V70XC how many miles do you drive with the tank? I do just about all highway driving and my trip computer says I get around 21-23mpg average. When I actually divide the miles I drove by the gallons I put in I get 4-5miles per gallon higher. I fill up when my miles are around 320-340 and I put about 14-16 gallons in it although it says I can go another 60-80 miles. Any help would be appreciated. I am thinking I will fill up a 5 gallon canister with fuel and carry it with me and next time see how far I can drive before its empty.... then fill it with the 5 gallons. Thoughts?? Thanks again for all your help I really appreciate it!!

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 25 Aug 2011, 17:43

I've always avoided running a dry tank with any electric fuel pump.
From what I've heard, the gas keeps it cooled and lubricated.
And where I live, I never let it run below half anyway.

Just fill it, record the mileage ( or hit the trip odo...)
and do the math next time you fill up. Easy, peasy.

Post by **Xilikon** » 26 Aug 2011, 08:54

BEJinFbk wrote:I've always avoided running a dry tank with any electric fuel pump.
From what I've heard, the gas keeps it cooled and lubricated.
And where I live, I never let it run below half anyway.

Just fill it, record the mileage ( or hit the trip odo...)
and do the math next time you fill up. Easy, peasy.

The pump conception will always ensure there are fuel surrounding the pump even when it's almost dry. When you see the whole assembly, the white part is the reservoir encasing the pump. However, the advice to avoid running try is still true to avoid moving some sediments causing it to get plugged and break.

I will be doing the same job of replacing the fuel pump to a brand new Volvo one (current one was a Scan-Tech POS which always leak even when tightened to perfection using proper tools at a indy Volvo shop). By having worked on this 3 times + the indy Volvo job, I have plenty of experience to do the job properly. That thing already hurt my left thumb nail

BTW, what would be the proper way to hold the pump in the correct orientation while tightening the lock ring ? I tried using a screwdriver but it ended up crooking the fuel inlets so I must try to find a way to hold it from the bottom...

Post by **jimmy57** » 26 Aug 2011, 12:51

Lubricate the unit cap with vaseline. The Volvo special tool counterhold works like your screwdriver method and also can bend the metal lines coming out of cap if the "jar lid" won't turn easily on the cap while tightening.