Turbo Oil Return line - gasket and O ring questions

Post by **jmailloux** » 31 Jul 2011, 23:33

Hi there,

Got a problem and need some help, please!

My 1998 V70R and I am are the middle of doing the turbo oil return line gasket, the one at the turbo. I started this all because I wanted to change the turbo cooling hoses, flush, put new coolant new, etc, and had some oil leak down there, and figured this would be a good time to change out that turbo oil return line gasket.

After about 4-5 hours under car: I have the turbo oil return line disconnected at the turbo; old gasket (falling apart) removed.

Problem: Dealer sold me an orange O ring with the turbo oil return line gasket. Said it when into the end of line where it connects to the turbo. I can't manage to get in into the end of the line because of really restricted, ugly access to that line. The AWD transmission is right in the @@#$% way. I also can't get the all metal, three bolt transmission bracket at the rear of the tranny off either, (top bolt has bad access, can't break it loose), which, if it were gone, would let me get a second hand up at the turbo. The disconnected turbo oil return line only has about 1/4" clearance from its mounting surface, and I can only move the oil line 1/2" laterally in either direction. I have tried moving the oil line in any direction, and about 1/2" is all I get - tranny is usually what stops me.

Question: Does this orange O ring indeed go in the turbo oil return line, or not? If yes, how do I get it in there? Or is the flat green gasket the only seal on this line at the turbo end? I could not see any old O ring in there (with my damn dental mirror!). I can barely get a finger onto the turbo oil return line flange to move the O ring onto it. With my mirror, I can see what might be a small ledge inside the oil return line pipe at the end, might be suitable for an O ring to sit in, but I am not sure. Sure can't get the new O ring in there after trying for way too long, though.

Is this orange O ring actually for the oil pan side of the turbo oil return line? If so, I am probably not going to bother doing that now. Don't see how I could do that one without dropping the transmission.

Any help would be appreciated!
Jim.
Here's my post that started this: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=41290

Post by **jimmy57** » 31 Jul 2011, 23:47

There is only a gasket at turbo and the o ring on the tube where it inserts into side of engine block.

Post by **jmailloux** » 31 Jul 2011, 23:52

Thank You! Wow, driving myself nuts with that one. Gasket only at the turbo, that I can do.

Any tips on how to do the O ring at the side of the engine block? Short of dropping the transmission? Does the oil return just friction fit in there, or are there mounting bolts, etc? Any special way to turn or move this oil return that I have not tried?
Thanks,
jim.

Post by **jimmy57** » 01 Aug 2011, 00:25

The line at bottom just slides into the hole and there are no bolts or other things to retain it.
I usually do the exhaust manifold to cylinder head exhaust port gaskets when I do the turbo drain pipe seal job. The manifold with turbo being lifted up helps with getting some freedom to get the tube into block.

Post by **burnout8488** » 01 Aug 2011, 01:30

jimmy57 wrote:The line at bottom just slides into the hole and there are no bolts or other things to retain it.
I usually do the exhaust manifold to cylinder head exhaust port gaskets when I do the turbo drain pipe seal job. The manifold with turbo being lifted up helps with getting some freedom to get the tube into block.

That's a great way of going about it - I never thought of that. Still much harder than it should be, but that's one of the perks of buying an AWD Volvo that you repair yourself

OP - for future reference, the "AWD Transmission" is referred to as the Angle Gear. I removed mine entirely to do my turbo drainpipe seal job :p

Make sure you blast out the hole with some carb cleaner or any solvent spray before installing the new o ring. That will ensure a leak free seal. Lubing it up with oil will make it a tad easier to slide in as well.

Good luck!

Post by **jmailloux** » 01 Aug 2011, 10:21

jimmy57,

jimmy57 wrote:The line at bottom just slides into the hole and there are no bolts or other things to retain it.
I usually do the exhaust manifold to cylinder head exhaust port gaskets when I do the turbo drain pipe seal job. The manifold with turbo being lifted up helps with getting some freedom to get the tube into block.

How hard is it to do the job above (the manifold to cylinder head exhaust gaskets)? If I am not having a problem there (not sure how to tell if I am having a problem there), should I bother? I don't think I have much of a leak at the bottom end of the turbo oil return line, but obviously I can't get a good look at it. Not sure if I want to do exhaust gaskets just to get at the oil line seal at the bottom, if you know what I mean.

burnout, thanks for the info. I will clean it up if I end up doing that end of the line.
Jim.

Post by **renns** » 01 Aug 2011, 10:30

Jim,

Sounds like you are making progress, but I know it's a miserable job. I ended up pulling out the bevel gearbox on my AWD to give better access to the bottom of the turbo. That top bolt on the bevel gearbox was much tigher than the others in my case. With the passenger's side axle shaft out, I was able to fit an air impact wrench with extensions, u-joint, and socket onto the bolt to finally break it loose.

As for fitment of the oil drain tube, I was able to wiggle it out, and back in, without much difficulty once the two mounting bolts at the bottom of the turbo are removed.

Post by **jblackburn** » 01 Aug 2011, 10:40

How hard is it to do the job above (the manifold to cylinder head exhaust gaskets)?

Very annoying. Unless you suspect an exhaust leak, I'd say just leave it be.

I'd almost say the same for the O-ring - sounds like more trouble than it's worth if it's not leaking (and I haven't seen one leaking - every one I've seen is always the gasket at the turbo itself).

Post by **jmailloux** » 01 Aug 2011, 11:26

Thanks all!
Sounds like I don't want to do the O ring on the lower end of the turbo oil return line unless I find: That it is really leaking bad, and/or I have an exhaust gasket leak. Pulling the Angle Gear box does not sound like fun, and may be a bit more than I want to take on (visions of me calling a flatbed tow truck to the dealer with the angle gear and drive shafts in a pile in the back of the car).

How do I tell if I have an exhaust leak at that gasket? Noisy exhaust? smell? Don't have either one now. (well, I had a smell of burning oil, which was almost certainly from my turbo oil return line leaking onto the cat)

You are right; It does pretty much suck as a job; easily as bad as the TCV, new vac lines to the turbo, and new compressor bypass valve stuff I did a year or so ago. Ack.

Thanks for letting me know that top bolt on the angle gear mount of the three bolts is indeed harder to break loose. I have tried, but I don't have an impact wrench, so I think I will just leave it be and keep on working with my one hand and mirror, etc., and get the turbo oil return line gasket in. I will check for leakage at the bottom end of the turbo oil return line first (as best I can), but if I don't see an appreciable amount, then I am not doing that O ring........

Then I can start on the cooling system, which really started this whole mess........

Post by **jblackburn** » 01 Aug 2011, 11:34

A really noisy exhaust or O2 sensor codes will be your first suspects if the gaskets are leaking.

As much as I've had to deal with stupid leaky hoses near the turbo in my car, I'm SO glad I don't have an AWD model.

I think you were the one asking about the turbo coolant hoses as well, so I'd go ahead and knock those out too while you're under there and frustrated with it.