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Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo 850 Heater Core Replacement Tutorial
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precopster
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Volvo Repair Database Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2

Post by precopster »

Hi there, some of you may recall this post a little while ago and I have been hoping to get this on much sooner but alas, time being the thief it is.... This post should apply to all 850s and gen 1 V70s/S70s. I chose to go with showing how the heater coupling is replaced in addition to the heater core as when I attempted to replace JUST the heater core I had leaking in the cockpit. This may have been in part my badly rusted IRON heater pipes, which I replaced with the newer aluminium ones from V70/later 850. As the inner seal kit is not available the only choice is to replace the entire coupling.

Materials Required:

Torx driver set
New heater hose clamps
Flat screwdriver
Old towels
Zip ties or wire
New heater core part number 9144221 (Behr is OEM & the heater core of choice)
Heater coupling part number 3522035 (comes with all seals and clips)
Heater hoses to suit your vehicle (turbo hoses differ so I'll let you all make your own choices) If you can remove them from the coupling easily and there is little corrosion you can opt to retain them

Step 1
Undo the driver's side kick panel and set aside (from memory 3 torx screws)
Step 2
Undo the black plastic console shield on the driver's side (a torx screw closer to the handbrake) and peel the carpet right back
Step 3
Undo the horizontal torx screws on the heater box as in pic 1 (one on driver's side and one on passenger's side)
Pic 1 Undo the horizontal torx screws (one on driver's side and one on passenger side)
Pic 1 Undo the horizontal torx screws (one on driver's side and one on passenger side)
Step 4
Undo the vertical torx screws as is pic 2 (one on driver's side and one on passenger's side)
Pic 2 Undo the vertical torx screws (one on driver's side and one on passenger side)
Pic 2 Undo the vertical torx screws (one on driver's side and one on passenger side)
Step 5
Place some old towels in the footwell to catch any POSSIBLY HOT coolant. Reach around to where the heater pipes clip into the coupling and while pulling back on the heater core press both clips. The heater pipes should unlatch after a couple of attempts.
Pic 3 Heater pipe clips
Pic 3 Heater pipe clips
Step 6
Before attempting to flip the heater core out of it's sealing rubbers pull the a/c drain hose out of the floor and push it to one side
Step 7
Again place some old towels in the footwell to catch any coolant that may spill and beware if it is hot!! Pull the heater core out and place it on the ground.
Pic 4 The heater core removed and ready for disassembly
Pic 4 The heater core removed and ready for disassembly
Step 8
Undo the four torx screws attaching the core to the outer heater box (refer pic 5)
Pic 5 Undo the four torx screws to separate the core from the heater box
Pic 5 Undo the four torx screws to separate the core from the heater box
Step 9
Undo the large torx screw which attaches the pipes to the heater core (Pic 6)
Pic 6 Undo the large torx screw
Pic 6 Undo the large torx screw
Step 10
Clean up the ends of the heater pipes if they have any corrosion and place new seals over the ends (Pic 7) These seals come with the new core. At this point you'll notice that my pipes change from black to silver. This is because I replaced the iron pipes with some aluminium ones from a wrecking yard because the ends were badly corroded and I didn't want to pull the heater core twice; once is enough!! If you are doing this be sure to ask the wrecking yard for the LONGER torx screw.
Pic 7 Remove the old seals and place the new ones over the pipes
Pic 7 Remove the old seals and place the new ones over the pipes
Step 11
Attach the new heater core to the lower heater box with the 4 torx srews
Step 12
Now for the fun bit!! In the engine bay push both heater hoses clips while pulling on the hoses to remove the heater hoses. Have a bucket under the car to catch the coolant or if your engine is dirty & you don't want to contaminate the coolant just tie them up pointing up.
Step 13
In the engine bay loosen the 2 torx screws (In Pic 8) that hold the metal plate over the heater coupling and remove the plate by prying it off with a flat screwdriver. Push the coupling back through the firewall and while doing this rotate it 90 degrees (this is the key to getting it removed easily)
Pic 8 Undo the retaining plate
Pic 8 Undo the retaining plate
Step 14
In the cabin, while holding the coupling firmly pull it out past the rubber floor backing (if you have rotated it 90 degrees it should clear with just a little effort)
Step 15
Remove the clips/seals from the inner side of the new heater coupling and place them on the ends of your heater pipes as in pic 9 below
Pic 9 Place the clips/seals on the heater pipes
Pic 9 Place the clips/seals on the heater pipes
Step 16
Mark the top of the new heater coupling (refer to the pic of the coupling protruding from the firewall) Remove the clips and seals from the firewall side of the heater coupling to avoid bending/damaging them and pass the coupling from the cabin side tilted at 90 degrees then rotate it another 90 degrees so it faces correctly once it passes the rubber carpet backing.
Step 17
Install the metal holding plate; at this point centre the plate as much as possible and DONT tighten the screws all the way; give them some torque but not enough to budge easily. This gives the assembly some room to move as the heater pipes find their way to the coupling.
Step 18: Go and have a beverage: you've earned it!! Rotate the clips on the ends of the heater pipes so they will match the squared end of the cabin side coupling. Now time to place the heater core back in the car.
Pretty mich a reversal of the dismantle procedure; be sure to re-tighten the coupling plate on the engine bay side, refit your heater hoses and refill with appropriate coolant. Test for leaks, then replace the kick panels.

ENJOY THE WARM COMFORTING AIR IN THE KNOWLEDGE YOU SAVED YOURSELF SOME REAL DOLLARS AND DID A BETTER THAN DEALER-CLASS JOB
Last edited by jblackburn on 07 Jul 2011, 07:02, edited 30 times in total.
Reason: put pictures inline with write-up
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

taxidad
Posts: 51
Joined: 25 April 2010
Year and Model: V70 XC 1999
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by taxidad »

Hi Precopster, might be a dumb question - after replacement do you bleed the air from the cooling system simply by leaving the cap off the coolant recovery tank for a while with the engine running, then top it up slightly?

Thanks for a great write up by the way. A mechanic told me they would have to remove the dash to replace the heater core, more than 1K for the job - I've had it out for a while, but have finally gotten around to getting a new OEM core & coupling. Will be installing it next week using your tutorial. Been shivering a bit in this Melbourne winter lol!

precopster
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Post by precopster »

Just be glad it's not a P2 series 2001 on Volvo as these require the dash removal for the heater core replacement.

My 960 wagon has no heater (but the heated seats have saved my hide) and on this one much of the dash needs to be removed.

With regard to bleeding, yes leave the cap off, but you will need to top up at least another two times after heat up/cool down cycles to be sure it has enough.

Does your low coolant light work? If so you don't need to worry too much.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

taxidad
Posts: 51
Joined: 25 April 2010
Year and Model: V70 XC 1999
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by taxidad »

That was quick, thanks very much for that :-)

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Thank you,

I have no heater core leak (yet) but I might need this DIY some day.

You are right, it probably makes sense to replace the Coupling (in addition to the Heater Core).
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Just to add to your excellent thread, parts diagram can be seen here:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartsResults.aspx

- Heater Core PN 9144221 is about $125.
- Heater Pipe Kit PN 9134978 is $67 (this also includes the Heater Coupler).
- Heater Coupler Only PN 3522035 is $39.

VolvoHeater.JPG
VolvoHeater.JPG (83.52 KiB) Viewed 21010 times
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

taxidad
Posts: 51
Joined: 25 April 2010
Year and Model: V70 XC 1999
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by taxidad »

Another novice question - I received parts today from FCP in the US. Blower, Resistor, heater core & coupling. Should have realised that Left & Right hand drive might matter. It does for the blower at least - that's a bummer! Can't find parts in Aus as cheap as FCP. Haven't pulled the heater core yet. Anyone know if left/right hand drive affects the heater core as well. Looks like the coupling tubes pivot. Stupid mistake, but you live & learn.

precopster
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Post by precopster »

With the blower, you may be able to get away with reversing positive to negative and vice versa to the power leads.

The heater core is universal.

Don't feel too silly about it; I did the same thing with my Volvo 960 and ordered the USA fan blower (with completely different part number to the RHD cars)

To test the theory first see that it looks the same as your motor & has the same mounting positions, second apply power from the battery via some test leads then apply power in reverse polarity and see if it spins (and creates airflow in the opposite direction)

If this works all you have to do is cut the power leads and solder red to black and black to red.

Thanks cn90 for the parts breakup, the thread looks more complete with this!!
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

taxidad
Posts: 51
Joined: 25 April 2010
Year and Model: V70 XC 1999
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by taxidad »

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately the mounting positions are completely reversed. I'd have to somehow take the motors off their respective mounting plates & swap them. If it didn't work I can't send the new one back for a refund, so I think I'll just suck it up, and buy one in Melbourne. I noticed you are from Melbourne, any suggestions for sourcing parts? Sorry to introduce a slightly unrelated topic into this thread. It might help someone ;-) Thanks for your help.

valvster
Posts: 98
Joined: 22 February 2008
Year and Model: 850 1996
Location: Adelaide, South Australia

Post by valvster »

I've used this Pommy mob last year
http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/def ... th=663_865
cheaper shipping charges than FCP but parts are not as cheap.(lotsa Scantech crap but)

Also the UK forum http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=16
mentions some other dealers for genuine & OEM parts.

Here in OZ I've used
http://www.eurocarparts.com.au/ (Mann oil filters)
http://www.hsy.com.au/html/master.html
(they are wholesale only but will sell to you....they bought out VolvSaab parts in Melb.
got some ATE brake discs for $85ea. delivered to Adelaide)
Sadly, just like other retailers, OZ is about 10yrs behind the times for ordering Volvo bits so
I buy most Volvo bits from USA.

Valvster

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