Car does not respond when I press gas (sometimes....))

Bibicha · Post by **Bibicha** » 10 Aug 2011, 09:46

Hi,

I am in a desperate need of help. First, I have no choice but to keep my
car and fix it or try to fix the most important items to buy time
(unemployed now so no way to buy another car).

I took my car last Thursday to a VOLVO dealership for diagnostics. I would
start the car and when I press the gas pedal, there very little power to the
point that I can only drive the car for 10 miles an hour. It started as
once in a while instance that would resolve itself once I shut off the car,
wait and then restart. But now, it seems this temporary solution is not
working. I got to drive home earlier with 10 miles an hour speed.

The service guy at the dealership told me that I had a throttle problem and
the breather box was clogged and that it was not worth to fix because the
car is dying.

This is 99 Volvo s80 T6 with 152K miles. Isn't Volvo for life? or for life
when it's just broken and not driven?

Any way, I thought about it and I have no solution but to fix the car
otherwise it would be $200 at the junk yard. It's still beautiful car that
I drove just like 80 miles an hour on the highway...it drives great on the
highway.

The engine shakes (I think the engine is missing one support) but the rpm
fluctuates and I have been driving with it for the past 4 or 5 years. I
just want to be able to fix it to buy myself time to figure what I should
do. So I would appreciate your help.

I got used throttle that was locked and couldn't be programmed. This repair
shop (Volvo authorized) cleaned the other one and replaced it. I paid $196
and I got it out happy, runny a couple of errands and then again the same
problem the same day. Then I was thinking about putting a new throttle until
I thought about seeking the expertise of some of you here.

I looked at the codes again: it says ETM---no fault (why the dealer says
that it was the throttle body? and then didn't charge me the diagnostics
(felt bad for me as he said).

I am suspecting I have a major wiring problem in my car. Volvo has had a
bad history on this subject. So I am sharing the codes that came out. Once
again, I have no alternative but to keep my car for now (a few months).
what can I resolve urgently to solve the problem of the car/engine not
responding to the gas pedal

Please help....I would appreciate any feedback. Please note that car was
working fine at this diagnostics and responding to the gas pedal. So I am
assuming the 'no active' status is related to my problem. Also, I have a
feeling the dealer service guy was hiding something from me since he didn't
make pay for diagnostics when my car was there for almost 2 hours and half.

ECM-4000 Canister purge (CP) valve - signal missing-----DCT is found active
ECM-4308 Leak diagnostic-major leak - major leak----DCT is found acrtive
ECM-644A Camshaft control -Faulty signal ---------DCT is found not active
ECM-903C Reconfiguration emission system -Information--DCT is found not active
ECM-903F Throttle position (TP) - signal missing---------DCT is found not active
ECM-904C Reconfiguration emission system - Information----DCT is found not active
ECM-904D Text message - Information--------------DCT is found not active
ECM-9190 Throttle position (TP) - Faulty current------DCT is found not active
ECM-91A7 Throttle position (TP) - Faulty control--------DCT is found not active
ECM-91F0 Throttle position (TP) - Faulty current-----DCT is found active

CEM-1A07 15-power supply signal too high-----DCT is found not active
CEM-1A08 50-power supply signal missing------DCT is found not active
CEM-1C02 L-signal signal too low---------------DCT is found not active
CEM-1C05 30-power supply signal too low------DCT is found not active
CEM-2E03 Power steering initiation fault----------DCT is found not active
CEM-6A04 Door locked, right rear signal too low--DCT is found not active
CEM-1A04 X-power supply signal too low---------DCT is found not active
CEM-1C01 L-Signal signal too high-----------------DCT is found not active

CCM- 0003 Fan motor passenger compartment temperature sensor faulty signal--DCT is found not active
DDM-0025 Mirror motor signal missing---------DCT is found active
DDM-003F Control, door mirror signal too high----DCT is found not active

PSM-E003 Configuration fault faulty configuration---DCT is found not active
REM-6C11 Tilt sensor, power supply signal too high----DCT is found not active
SRS-00D0 Seat belt buckle, driver signal missing-------DCT is found active
SRS-00D1 Seat belt buckle, passenger signal missing----DCT is found active
SRS-E003 Configuration fault faulty configuration-------DCT is found not active

UEM-0004 Siren communication fault -----DCT is found active
UEM-0005 Sun roof commication fault------DCT is found active
UEM-0031 Reading lamp signal missing-----DCT is found not active
UEM-0033 Reading lamp signal missing-----DCT is found not active

ETM----no fault found
PDM ---no fault found
SWM --no fault found
TCM---no fault found
ABS ---no fault found
DIM---no fault found

Thank you so much in advance.

Post by **dcarlson12** » 10 Aug 2011, 22:40

Did the dealer clear all the codes and then these were the codes that still showed up? Or did they just read and print out the codes and give the read out to you?

Bibicha · Post by **Bibicha** » 11 Aug 2011, 00:36

No they didn't clear anything as far as I know.

I was shown the one page codes (like this car is not worth fixing).

Also, changed the alternator about a year ago and I do get a low power when I start my car in the mornings.
I get a battery sign which disappears once I press the gas. I am not sure if that's part of it or not

I am lost!

Bibicha · Post by **Bibicha** » 11 Aug 2011, 11:21

Hi again,

This morning, I wanted to see if my car would respond.
It started rough hesitating (not starter but engine area ---shaking)
with the battery sign (EL-power system message). I used to get rid of the message by pressing gas but now, the car does not respond to the gas pedal

Then I disconnected the negative of the battery
to see what would happen (I am a woman that lack the knowledge in cars)
It started better (may be because of this being the second time). The check engine was cleared but I got it right back with the battery sign.

I am not sure if that would help to guess or let me know what you would think about what's wrong with it.
If it's for the sure the throttle, at least I would know.

As you know, I am lost!

Thank you so much

Post by **dcarlson12** » 12 Aug 2011, 01:46

Perhaps someone can chime in and guide you to an independent Volvo repair shop in your area. I am assuming you can get to drive to a shop. Sounds like you need all the codes to be cleared although I think this might happen when you disconnect and leave battery disconnected for a period of time say a half hour. Not sure on this so need someone like jblackburn or Ozark Lee or Jimmy57 or ? to confirm.
Sounds like you may have problems with the charging system i.e. alternator and/or corroded or lose cables/wires
The shop should clear all the codes and then see which ones come back.
The first time I cleared codes on my car, a whole bunch showed up and cleared and only one or two came back.
If you plan to keep the car, you might wish to invest in a diagnostic scanner such as the the PPC diagnostic unit from BSR in Sweden.
See this link: http://en.bsr.se/products/503050/

I bought one and it has paid for itself many times over.
It would allow you to read the codes and then post them here for others to aid you.

groel220 · Post by **groel220** » 12 Aug 2011, 17:32

It really sounds like your throttle is bad. Even if the dealer has cleaned it and reinstalled it, they often don't work, and will result in very similar symptoms to what you are having. I got a unit from Xemodex (http://www.xemodex.com/) and it has worked like a charm after my throttle failed. They cost $550, but they are worth every penny with a lifetime warranty.

If you have a friend or family member who has done some car repairs they could probably take this job on without much trouble. You also may need a new alternator, it sounds like yours may be going out. Once those start to go out they can trip a whole lot of error codes. You may be able to find one at a junkyard for fairly cheap. Good luck!

Bibicha · Post by **Bibicha** » 13 Aug 2011, 02:56

dcarlson12 wrote:Perhaps someone can chime in and guide you to an independent Volvo repair shop in your area. I am assuming you can get to drive to a shop. Sounds like you need all the codes to be cleared although I think this might happen when you disconnect and leave battery disconnected for a period of time say a half hour. Not sure on this so need someone like jblackburn or Ozark Lee or Jimmy57 or ? to confirm.
Sounds like you may have problems with the charging system i.e. alternator and/or corroded or lose cables/wires
The shop should clear all the codes and then see which ones come back.
The first time I cleared codes on my car, a whole bunch showed up and cleared and only one or two came back.
If you plan to keep the car, you might wish to invest in a diagnostic scanner such as the the PPC diagnostic unit from BSR in Sweden.
See this link: http://en.bsr.se/products/503050/

I bought one and it has paid for itself many times over.
It would allow you to read the codes and then post them here for others to aid you.

Thanks Carlson for your feedback. I think you are right on the money when it comes to my alternator.
I changed last year 4/2010 and the work was done by a local mechanic. As soon as I got my car back, I started having that problem. The SRS urgent message came up from the time. I had trouble starting the car and I get EL-power system and a battery sign until I press gas and it gone. I told them at the shop but they didn't know. I should have persisted. I was told that it was my starter but then it only does it in the morning when I am starting it.

The problem that I have thought is that my car has oil leak and it finds itself out the broken oil dipstick. The dealer told me that that has ruined my throttle and will ruin a new one. But we all know that the the throttle is defective as it is. The guy who changed my alternator (lifetime warranty) may refuse to replace it because I have oil splushing on it....

So I think I have to take care of the major leak and the throttle and after the alternator (one thing at a time

)
I am definitely going to think about the code reader device. It seems that's a wise investment. I will get to it eventually after I get my car going.

Thank you so much for the feedback and I appreciate it very much

Bibicha · Post by **Bibicha** » 13 Aug 2011, 02:59

groel220 wrote:It really sounds like your throttle is bad. Even if the dealer has cleaned it and reinstalled it, they often don't work, and will result in very similar symptoms to what you are having. I got a unit from Xemodex (http://www.xemodex.com/) and it has worked like a charm after my throttle failed. They cost $550, but they are worth every penny with a lifetime warranty.

If you have a friend or family member who has done some car repairs they could probably take this job on without much trouble. You also may need a new alternator, it sounds like yours may be going out. Once those start to go out they can trip a whole lot of error codes. You may be able to find one at a junkyard for fairly cheap. Good luck!

Thanks 'groel220' for your feedback. I heard so much about Xemodex that I will definitly get.

Do you know how long it would take to install. That way, I can know how to negotiate

Too bad but my family is not around here and no friends that I can trust with my car but I am sure I will find a local mechanic who can do it. I just need the length of time.

Thank you so much!