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2000 xc se v70 hard start long crank

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo North America Sales in 2024
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Doradokid
Posts: 1
Joined: 2 July 2009
Year and Model: V70 XC 2000
Location: Denver, Colorado

Re: 2000 xc se v70 hard start long crank

Post by Doradokid »

We are seeing hard starting on my 2000 XC. Put on a replacement check valve and the pressure jumped to the point it blew our pressure testing gauge (about 100 PSI) and car starting was even worse. The valve was placed close to the tank and in the correct direction. Removed the replacement. Checking pump pressure, which I believe should be about 35 PSI, we are seeing it go to 10 PSI sometimes, then climb to 20 and then the car starts to fire. Sometimes car starts right up, other times we have long cranking time. The variations in fuel pressure at start makes us think the problem is fuel pump. But if any of you have any other recommendations, we would be glad to hear them.

We will be trying to test electrical connections and current at the pump to make sure the problem is not just an electrical on.

If we were to change the fuel pump and don't want to have to disassemble the rear axle and rip out the rear end, have any of you tried cutting a hole from above to get to the pump? Did it work? Any hints. Saw a link to doing that on a 1998 but it seems the pump on the 98 is not in the same location as on a 2000 XC.

Thanks in advance for any help

Doradokid

User avatar
gilhuly
Posts: 295
Joined: 18 September 2009
Year and Model: 98 V70 GLT
Location: Fairfield, CT

Post by gilhuly »

I have done the cut from above method. The best way to make the cut is probably using an air hammer with a sheet metal cutting bit (quick and no sparks!).

If you have a lift there is an alternative prybar method to lower the tank enough to get the pump swapped and the whole new harness in. With the cut method you will need to splice into the old harness as it is pinned between the tank and chassis.

Get some1.5" strips of sheetmetal to patch back in the cutout with black goo and self tapping screws.
1998 V70 GLT, 15G swap
Fairfield, CT

mrjacobrussell
Posts: 211
Joined: 13 April 2010
Year and Model: 2006 s60R
Location: Southern Oregon
Has thanked: 2 times

Post by mrjacobrussell »

Doradokid wrote:We are seeing hard starting on my 2000 XC. Put on a replacement check valve and the pressure jumped to the point it blew our pressure testing gauge (about 100 PSI) and car starting was even worse. The valve was placed close to the tank and in the correct direction. Removed the replacement. Checking pump pressure, which I believe should be about 35 PSI, we are seeing it go to 10 PSI sometimes, then climb to 20 and then the car starts to fire. Sometimes car starts right up, other times we have long cranking time. The variations in fuel pressure at start makes us think the problem is fuel pump. But if any of you have any other recommendations, we would be glad to hear them.

We will be trying to test electrical connections and current at the pump to make sure the problem is not just an electrical on.

If we were to change the fuel pump and don't want to have to disassemble the rear axle and rip out the rear end, have any of you tried cutting a hole from above to get to the pump? Did it work? Any hints. Saw a link to doing that on a 1998 but it seems the pump on the 98 is not in the same location as on a 2000 XC.

Thanks in advance for any help

Doradokid

from my experiance with working on cars in general sounds like your issue is a bad in tank fuel pressure regulator
2004 S60R AutoX Car
2006 S60R
2005 v70R

2006 v50 t5 AWD M66
2005 v50 t5 AWD for sale

I have a Chinese DICE, works well.
In southern Oregon.

mrjacobrussell
Posts: 211
Joined: 13 April 2010
Year and Model: 2006 s60R
Location: Southern Oregon
Has thanked: 2 times

Post by mrjacobrussell »

JRL wrote:Yes
Google that part.
On Amazon for about $28
Mount it as close to the fuel tank as possible


i had read a few places that people put the heck valve right at the engine is this not recomended ??
2004 S60R AutoX Car
2006 S60R
2005 v70R

2006 v50 t5 AWD M66
2005 v50 t5 AWD for sale

I have a Chinese DICE, works well.
In southern Oregon.

mrjacobrussell
Posts: 211
Joined: 13 April 2010
Year and Model: 2006 s60R
Location: Southern Oregon
Has thanked: 2 times

Post by mrjacobrussell »

ok so here is where i stand. I just got my pressure test i ordered ran out and dd several tests

at warmed up after driving all day the car is 10 psi fule pressure

turned on off on off on off to prime and i watched the needle bounce up and down from the door.

10 psi at off

started car rock solid 60 psi

did the tests again same results

Granted its a cheep tester and the PSI reading might be a lttle off but it was consistant.

So are there any picture of recomended install locations for the SUR check valve ??
2004 S60R AutoX Car
2006 S60R
2005 v70R

2006 v50 t5 AWD M66
2005 v50 t5 AWD for sale

I have a Chinese DICE, works well.
In southern Oregon.

User avatar
BEJinFbk
Posts: 4067
Joined: 5 January 2008
Year and Model: '98 V70 R
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Has thanked: 93 times
Been thanked: 146 times

Post by BEJinFbk »

Doradokid wrote:We are seeing hard starting on my 2000 XC. Put on a replacement check valve and the pressure jumped to the point it blew our pressure testing gauge (about 100 PSI) and car starting was even worse. The valve was placed close to the tank and in the correct direction. Removed the replacement. Checking pump pressure, which I believe should be about 35 PSI, we are seeing it go to 10 PSI sometimes, then climb to 20 and then the car starts to fire. Sometimes car starts right up, other times we have long cranking time. The variations in fuel pressure at start makes us think the problem is fuel pump. But if any of you have any other recommendations, we would be glad to hear them.

We will be trying to test electrical connections and current at the pump to make sure the problem is not just an electrical on.

If we were to change the fuel pump and don't want to have to disassemble the rear axle and rip out the rear end, have any of you tried cutting a hole from above to get to the pump? Did it work? Any hints. Saw a link to doing that on a 1998 but it seems the pump on the 98 is not in the same location as on a 2000 XC.

Thanks in advance for any help

Doradokid
I'm not sure that a 2000 has one, but -
Any chance you put it on the return line?
Just a random thought...
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

daylightmagic
Posts: 1
Joined: 16 November 2016
Year and Model: 2001 V70
Location: La Jolla

Post by daylightmagic »

Fuel gauge not working

I had this problem where
fuel gauge didn't work
rear door doesn't lock
front door can't be unlock with the switch on the driver's side door
rear wiper doesn't work
rear spray doesn't work

DIAOSnx Aluminium Fuel Petrol Diesel Non Return One Way Check Valve
by DIAOSnx®
Link: http://a.co/66uzJAy

Is this what was suggested to try to fix the problem?
Thanks,
Jeff

s70dean
Posts: 22
Joined: 26 August 2016
Year and Model: 1999 awd 1998 t5m
Location: Cambridge

Post by s70dean »

Hey there
I'm experiencing similar issues with long cranking and initial stumble/stall with my 1999 s70 awd 2.4t.
But once the engine is running it runs flawless and rock solid idle.
there's no mil codes showing.
Was the check valve the answer?
cheers
Dean

mrjacobrussell
Posts: 211
Joined: 13 April 2010
Year and Model: 2006 s60R
Location: Southern Oregon
Has thanked: 2 times

Post by mrjacobrussell »

Dean, can you test the fuel pressure after turning key to pos II engine off? If it doesn't stay near 60 psi the internal check valve is bad.
2004 S60R AutoX Car
2006 S60R
2005 v70R

2006 v50 t5 AWD M66
2005 v50 t5 AWD for sale

I have a Chinese DICE, works well.
In southern Oregon.

s70dean
Posts: 22
Joined: 26 August 2016
Year and Model: 1999 awd 1998 t5m
Location: Cambridge

Post by s70dean »

Hey There
So at position 2 the fuel pump will initially pressurize then shut down, correct? And at that point fuel pressure should be a stable 60 psi? I don't have a proper fuel testing rig but i've heard you can use a digital tire gauge? I say digital because that what I have ;-)
Just want to be sure
Thanks Dean

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