Help with Passanger side CV axle replacement for S70 1998.

salviatheart · Post by **salviatheart** » 18 Sep 2011, 07:58

I am new to this forum and never been in another forum before, so I hope I posted this correct. If I messed up in something let me know. I am sure this in the forum somewhere but I thought I ask and maybe find it a little bit quicker. I've done it before but it was a pain and I thought I could find a better way. Also the one I replace before kept leaking from the transmission and the boot by the brake rotor broke already and I did this job about 4 years ago. I want to hopefully do it right this time. Your help will be appreciated.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Sep 2011, 08:40

Welcome to MVS,

The passenger's side is actually the easy one.

Much of your success will be based on the quality of the parts you use. I have used re-built Cardone axles from the auto parts store and I also had a leak at the seal - even though I replaced the seal at the same time. There are also many cheap Chinese axles on the market and they have a spotty track record at best - on more than one occasion the splines won't even fit into the transmission and they seem to have a life span of around 6 months.

If you want to get this job done once and for all call Marty at RAXLES. His axles are more expensive than the competition and you will need to ship back the core (he pays for that up front) but they flat work and work correctly.

I have also used EMPI axles. They fit fine and didn't leak at the seal but I have had a constant vibration under acceleration from the inner CV joints flopping around. The EMPI axles are more expensive than the ultra cheap Chinese axles but they are cheaper than RAXLES.

http://www.raxles.com/

The job is a pain but not that bad. With the car still on the ground remove the nut that secures the axle to the hub. Jack up the car and get jack stands under the frame. From there remove the lower control arm - I have found it easier to remove the two bolts that secure the control arm to the subframe than it is to remove the pinch bolt at the ball joint / steering knuckle junction - but that is your call.

Once the steering knuckle is free and the end of the axle is out of the hub you simply need to remove the cap from the carrier bearing, slide the old axle out, and slide in the new one.

From there it is a matter of reversing things except that you should have the control arm at roughly "ride height" before you torque down the bolts through the bushings. I use a floor jack below the ball joint to raise the control arm to a point where the center of the hub is more or less lined up with the bottom door seam.

I drop the car back on the ground with a steel wheel - the spare will work fine as well - and then do the final torque on the axle nut.

...Lee

salviatheart · Post by **salviatheart** » 18 Sep 2011, 08:56

Thank you Lee! I've already bought a duralast cv axle yesterday. I wish I would have posted this earlier. I think I would try that one and see how it works. I would probably had to do it again in a couple of years but if I do I would try the other brands your suggested. Thanks!

SA

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 18 Sep 2011, 09:48

SA,

Well, lets hope the duralast axle is better then the cardone one. If it doesn't last, I have used the EMPI axles on my 850 and they worked great. The RAXLES axles are very good to so you can really go wrong.

Post by **asc325is** » 18 Sep 2011, 10:04

Lie its been said, its not a hard task, just a bit time comsuming for what it really is. I did mine about 2 weeks ago with an EMPI and it works fine. No vibration, but I may have been lucky.

I will have a new raxels passenger side axle for sale in a short while if you're interested. Im just going to sell it for the price on an EMPI.