CV Boot dead...should I just do the axle?

Sladethesleeper · Post by **Sladethesleeper** » 20 Sep 2011, 15:25

So, even after following the instructions for strut replacement, I got cocky on the 2nd strut (have done this a few times) and didn't protect my CV Boot. Low and behold, I had some issues with the strut and it landed on the CV Boot. Looked fine, drove for a few weeks with no issues. Then the other day heard a weird squeaking from the brakes so I took a look and noticed grease all over the inside of the wheel. No real obvious sign of CV Boot failure, except a ring of grease on the outside, widest part where the clamp is.

SO, guessing its time for a new CV Boot. Did some price checking, and it almost seems easier to just replace the axle wholesale for an additional $80 than to just replace the CV Boot and fight will all of that. Any opinions on that? The CV joint is not clicking. I checked it in a parking lot after I noticed the boot failure. I'm not driving the car for now.

Slade

Post by **JDS60R** » 20 Sep 2011, 15:41

I always do the whole axle. Get one from Marty at www.Raxles.com and you will never be sorry. These are new joints packed with Amsoil grease and very strong boots. If the axle in the car has severed you many miles and you are currently employed then raxles is the way to go. For those on limited budgets it is fine to repack and put on a new boots is no dirt or water has done damage to the joint. Keep in mind that you should only wipe out old grease as the cleaner you use to get out the old grease can ruin the new grease. I prefer Amsoil off road polymeric grease #2 with moly for cv joints.

VolvoTurbo850 · Post by **VolvoTurbo850** » 20 Sep 2011, 16:02

It is about time and money and learning opportunity.

As long as the unit is not damaged, i would rather just replace the boot at about $25. I know there is a good write up here somewhere. This means you can do both sides for less than one axle.

If you do not want to get your hands dirty then go with the boot. Most mechanics just want the axle because it cost them less time to replace the whole unit than replace the boot.

I think i have done about 12 boots now on various cars and i was surprised how easy it was.. messy as ever though!

Post by **precopster** » 20 Sep 2011, 18:17

What side of the car is the axle on? The longer one with the engine block mounted carrier is VERY EASY to change. The other one will be a pain with a stubborn clip that won't let go.

Sladethesleeper · Post by **Sladethesleeper** » 20 Sep 2011, 18:23

Well, definitely not afraid to get dirty. I restore old cars for my hobby.

I always look at things from a time and material price viewpoint. I do my own work on my older cars because I'm too cheap to pay a mechanic. I also have the tools and general know how. I was originally going to do just the boot, but after reviewing some guides and researching price of axle versus boot, I figure it would likely save me quite a bit of time to just swap out the axle wholesale and not worry about any possible damage to the joint. I think the joint is in good shape, but sometimes I get a mentality of "While I am there" and figure it may be much easier to just pay $75 more a new axle with two new boots and two new joints.

BTW, it is the passenger side. And while I'm there, I'll be changing the engine mount out and brakes as well.

kiss4afrog · Post by **kiss4afrog** » 20 Sep 2011, 18:46

The other advantage to the whole half shaft idea is that it comes with a warranty, usually lifetime. Should a boot fail in the future it can be argued it was a "manufacturers defect" and you get a new shaft.
It isn't worth paying someone else to do a boot as what you save on the half shaft you spend in their labor. Doing it yourself you have more choices but doing the complete half shaft gives you a warranty and if you go with new possibly a better redesigned one too.
As for cleaning the grease, once it's clean and you blow it dry there isn't much chance you're going to dilute the grease. If you can't clean and dry the joint properly you probably shouldn't be in there trying to re-boot it.
In your case it's a hard call because all you need to do is take it apart and slide the boot on, transfer what grease you can or try to clean as much out as you can and use new then clamp and reinstall. It wasn't moving, didn't get any water or dirt. It's just a matter of money and convenience. Drop a new one in and you shouldn't have to worry about it for 100K or more. Re-boot it and it's good for ??? maybe 100K also.