1996 855 T refresh: brakes, belts, suspension, etc.

[barneybox]

Hey all,

My sister is taking our old station wagon down to the US. It's been well maintained (we've had it since '97), has low mileage (143k kms, 88k miles), but the car has been sitting for the past few years. We want to put some money into it so it's reliable for the next few years and wanted to get some ideas as to what should be looked at and replaced and if I'm overlooking anything. The car is at the garage right now getting an emission test and a safety as well as an inspection.

Things that we are looking into doing:

1) Brakes. The rear brakes keep dragging and the parking brake cable might be messed up.
2) Full suspension (shocks/struts/springs/bushings/mounts). I've poked around IPDUSA and FCPgroton. I notice the latter has full suspension replacement kits. Are the Sachs replacement shocks and struts ok to use with lowering springs? Or should we look into Bilstein HDs or will the TCs be ok? What's a good combo? I'd like to make the car handle better and get rid of a bit of the wheel gap. The car does not have Nivomat.
3) Timing belt. It was done at 96K kms, should it be done again? What is the service interval for the water pump and how long is the radiator expected to last?
4) Seafoam Tranny tune and Mobil fluid
5) Engine mounts (if necessary). I know there are poly inserts from IPD, but excessive vibration is a concern. Which are the ones that usually go first?
6) Plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, fuel filter
7) There was slight leak from the turbo, but it stopped. I read somewhere there's a gasket that is easily replaceable.
Tires. I'm looking at the Continental Extremecontact DWS in 205/50/16 right now, as it needs to be all seasons. Is there other tire that should be considered.

I know there's a wealth of information out there, but any suggestions would be great, thanks!

[jblackburn]

1) The parking brake shoes or cable are probably rusted on. Change out all brake fluid and bleed the lines as well. Pads are probably OK, but the rotors might have high spots from sitting and will shake.
2) TC's with lowering springs are the direction I'd go if you want better handling. My friend has HD's on a Mini, and it's VERY harsh to ride in.
3) Do the timing belt again. Water pump is every 140K miles, sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on whether or not the coolant has been changed or not. Coolant becomes acidic if left in the car over a few years, and eats away at the radiator, engine passages, water pump fins, etc.
4) Don't put the Seafoam stuff in it. Change the fluid - the Mobil-1 or just standard Dex-III will work fine. Your choice. If shifting is fine at this point, just use standard Dexron-III.
5) I hate the poly mounts and refuse to use them on my own car. The lower engine mount by the crankshaft and upper torque rod bushing are the usual suspects for vibration.
7) Get the tires in 55/16 profile - they'll ride a lot better.

One other suggestion: the PCV system if it hasn't been done already. Check to see if it's clogged first with the engine warmed up and running by yanking the oil dipstick. If you see smoke puffing up the opening, it needs to be cleaned/replaced.

The paint could probably use a good cleaning of oxidized paint and wax, too.

[barneybox]

^Thanks man! The PCV system hasn't been touched, so I'll definitely have to look into that. What's reason why you don't like the seafoam tranny tune? The only reason why I mentioned it was I saw it on IPD's website and people were raving about it. I don't think it needs it as the tranny still shifts smooth, but figured it would be a good preventative measure. I'll look into the 55 series tires. It had a set before, but the last time we put tires on it a few years ago, we went back to the stock 50 profile. The current tires are Toyo Proxes 4s, but they weren't really good in the winter IIRC. The car will be moving to DC.

The paint is in pretty good shape as the car was fortunate enough have sat in a garage most of it's life. But I'm definitely going to bust out the Porter Cable and run some light compound on it. Here's a pic and an explanation for the screenname I picked.

[jblackburn]

Oh wow, that car looks like it's in very good shape!

I wouldn't use the Seafoam stuff unless you're having shifting problems. I just don't like additives if there's no real reason for em.

If DC doesn't get hit with another HUGE snowstorm this year (like the 2 feet all at once last year), you'll probably be fine with any good all-season tires. The 55's are a choice up to you; 50's handle better, but they also make you feel every bump - and DC/northern VA roads are TERRIBLE. That might be another reason you'd rather go with Sachs struts over the TC's.

[barneybox]

Just got it back from the garage and went to the MTO (DMW) and got it a new sticker. It passed emission test with with reading no where near the limit. Sweet!! It passed ontario safety too, so it can transfer easily to my sisters name so she can come up and get it within the next few months. I drove the car around for a bit. It was raining. The wipers need to replaced and the wiper arms suck, but I stumped upon the wiper mod thread. I did feel the motor shifting around when I lifted my foot off the throttle, so I'm going to look into the engine mounts. Brakes are great. 90% pad left.

I understand where you are coming from with the additives.

6170898863_8dff26f92c_b.jpg (320.53 KiB) Viewed 2738 times

The interior is pretty clean, no rips and tears. There's a little wear on the drivers side bolster, but it's not that bad. I'm going to look into some leather conditioner treatment or maybe even look into getting the front seats redyed because the car is in good shape overall inside, except for the shocks on the tailgate and the trim on it that needs a repair kit

The car itself is pretty comfortable and it figure it would be fun to make this car handle better than stock. Will the Sachs lifespan decrease when used on a lowering spring? I'm kinda leaning towards the TCs right now. I'm going to look for a lowering spring thread.... any suggestions?

[jblackburn]

Here's some threads for you.

Springs and struts time to buy koni bilstein eibach

Eibachs seem to be the way most go.

[vjaneczko]

I totally dig that color! That wasn't a factory color, was it?!

[keepersboy]

I used the info on this site to flush and fill the transmissions on both my volvos and it seemed to make the shifting seem a lot smoother. Neither one had been done in some time. Might be an idea for your car, you had mentioned the trans.

[Srini850]

The 55's are a choice up to you; 50's handle better, but they also make you feel every bump - and DC/northern VA roads are TERRIBLE. That might be another reason you'd rather go with Sachs struts over the TC's.

I definitely second this opinion. I live in Indiana and the roads here aren't too great. I've got an 850R and the previous owners put on Bilstein HD shocks and Eibach springs. The car handles great but it is absolutely harsh on any bump or pothole that is bigger than average. I actually take longer routes driving to school just because the roads are too bumpy if I took the short route.

I would go TC's or stay stock.

[barneybox]

Alright, after reading a more bit on the TCs, I'm taking them off the list. From what you guys are saying, the ride will be better with the Sachs. Not to mention, the car will sit higher with TCs.

The tires on the car right now are 205/50/16 Toyo Proxes 4 with 9/32 and 7/32nds left, so they still have usable tread. We'll keep them for now.

Going to read up more on front mounts, but what I've read here and there it's definitely something not to skimp. How are the IPD ones, or is it better to just stick with oem?

I was looking through the service records and the tranny fluid was flushed about 2 years (1000 kms ago).

The paint is all original "420" Amethyst /Aubergine pearl metallic. Pretty "dope" color, lol.

The garage said they may need up to 7 hours worse case scenario with an alignment to swap out with the suspension and quote 4.5 hours for the timing belt.