Check the wiring to your throttle position sensor on the front of the throttle body. You may have knocked it loose or something since you were working around that area.98moulvo wrote:Hey, Thanks for the awesome write up!
I did the PCV system today, and the car started up great. However, it will now not shift out of first gear, and takes much longer to drops rev's. I'm just realizing that i may have forgotten to reconnect the vaccuum line to the intake manifold. might this have an effect on the slow rev drops? I'm stumped about being stuck in 1st gear... going to check the tranny fluid first thing in the AM, any other ideas? I think it had a rough ride off the ramps (my left fog lamp broke) maybe something got jostled out of position?
P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
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jblackburn
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Re: PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Hey, did my pcv yesterday/today....when i started it up i have a hissing and it runs like s%^t. checked all my hoses...all connected...sounds like it is coming from around the right side of maniofold or hoses near the throttle.
1) is an unlit propane torch around the intake manifold an okay way to check that i got it on right?...or will it blow me up?
2) also...seems like the throttle body is moving sluggishly after i cleaned it. WD_40 the buh-jesu out of it...no change..suggestions?
3) the electrical connection to the ptc nipple was not plugged in prior to this procedure. I plugged it back in after cleaning...could this effect it?
4) is it possible i crushed a hose one of the pcv hoses that is held in place by the flange that is on the lower right manifold bolt?
i ran an old vacuum hose from the ptc to the left side of mani ...no change. If i crushed the larger pcv tube would it have this hissing and poor running effect?
thanks
T
1) is an unlit propane torch around the intake manifold an okay way to check that i got it on right?...or will it blow me up?
2) also...seems like the throttle body is moving sluggishly after i cleaned it. WD_40 the buh-jesu out of it...no change..suggestions?
3) the electrical connection to the ptc nipple was not plugged in prior to this procedure. I plugged it back in after cleaning...could this effect it?
4) is it possible i crushed a hose one of the pcv hoses that is held in place by the flange that is on the lower right manifold bolt?
i ran an old vacuum hose from the ptc to the left side of mani ...no change. If i crushed the larger pcv tube would it have this hissing and poor running effect?
thanks
T
'98 V70 (T), 265k miles
what doesn't kill us makes us... bitter.
what doesn't kill us makes us... bitter.
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
There's a small bracket thing on the lower right screw. Take the manifold off and remove it entirely - it's stuck on between that and the gasket.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
AAAAhh....would make sense....will check. have you done this? please say yes and make me feel better.
will have to wait until next weekend. figured i'd have to take it off to figure it out. again to figure it out. crud.
any suggestions with getting the throttle body to move better?....it should really snap back on it's own (while off the car). Right?
and thanks, by the way for the awesome directions on this!
T
will have to wait until next weekend. figured i'd have to take it off to figure it out. again to figure it out. crud.
any suggestions with getting the throttle body to move better?....it should really snap back on it's own (while off the car). Right?
and thanks, by the way for the awesome directions on this!
T
'98 V70 (T), 265k miles
what doesn't kill us makes us... bitter.
what doesn't kill us makes us... bitter.
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
I did it before putting it all back together...but I realized it was wrong earlier on 
Grease up all the linkages on the throttle body with white lithium/silicone grease. If it's sticky on the car, you might just need a new accelerator cable - they get sticky/rusty, and new ones feel SO much better.
Grease up all the linkages on the throttle body with white lithium/silicone grease. If it's sticky on the car, you might just need a new accelerator cable - they get sticky/rusty, and new ones feel SO much better.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Hi Justin, first of all, thank you very much for your wonderful post. I have 98 s70 turbo volvo and replaced the PCV system this weekend by following your detailed instruction even I do not know car well. really appreciate your help! cut story short, I bought PCV kit from FCP ($115.00 plus shipping). I replaced oil trap and the long long hose to PTC. However, after I completed the pcv project and tried to start car, the car sparks and turns over, but not starting, then I got "generator not charging "" and "check engine" lights? what could I do wrong? what should I check. BTW, I lost one intake manifold bolt from left bottom location, then I took intake manifold out, could not find it. I guess it might fall into space between oil trap and engine body. but I did not want take oil trap out again because it is hard to install its left bolt. thanks again for help.
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
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That bolt needs to be there; else it won't seal against the gasket and will create an air leak. The bolts are M5x1.5 hex head bolts or something of the sort - I don't remember the length, but it's an M5 bolt. Go to a hardware store (I could only find em at Lowe's) and get about 5 washers to put in between the bolt and intake manifold for it to fit properly.BTW, I lost one intake manifold bolt from left bottom location, then I took intake manifold out, could not find it.
I'm thinking you must have knocked the wires loose perhaps from the back of the alternator when you were lowering the intake manifold back into place or something.
That left bolt on the oil trap is a pain. I don't think I have one anymore
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Thanks Justin for your great advice! right, one bolt on right should be strong enough to hold oil trap. i will take the intake manifold and oil trap out again to check all wires to alternator (and missing bolt). Thanks again
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
A magnet on a stick may be helpful for reaching behind the oil trap
. But I think the wires to the alternator may be accessible without removing the intake manifold. I can't entirely recall.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
sorry to interupt the current flow but just wanted to post my results, and 2 cents on the pcv repair.
was able to loosen the mani without taking it completly off, and using my magnetic wonder wand pull the flang out and throw it away. put it back together..and
no more hissing or missing. Drove it 300 miles this weekend! No CEL. No oil on top of engine....fingers crossed.
this pcv job took me about 8-10 hours. I did a LOT of cleaning (including the inside of the mani) & 2 bicycle rides to the autozone & lowe's.
Two of biggest pains were the return fuel line, & Getting to the clamp on the big air tube.
To not loose the mani bolts i tried the stick'em stuff, but it no stick. so used the duct tape tecnique with the extendable magnetic wand (always wondered who would use such a gimmicky device....now i know.) just under the bolt in case anything slipped.
universal joints and extensions are a must.
the ratcheting 12 mm helped a lot with mani support bolts. thanks. found it a pain, but not too bad getting the mani support bolts off. And from Top of engine feeling under worked best for me. Did not need to take the fan off....and i have pretty large (farmer size) hands.
The FCP'S vacuum tube, and larger tube to the ptc were almost too short.
The bottom tube on the oil separator to engine almost did not fit.....other people have mentioned these things too.
a few pics for your viewing pleasure. and again...thanks.
was able to loosen the mani without taking it completly off, and using my magnetic wonder wand pull the flang out and throw it away. put it back together..and
this pcv job took me about 8-10 hours. I did a LOT of cleaning (including the inside of the mani) & 2 bicycle rides to the autozone & lowe's.
Two of biggest pains were the return fuel line, & Getting to the clamp on the big air tube.
To not loose the mani bolts i tried the stick'em stuff, but it no stick. so used the duct tape tecnique with the extendable magnetic wand (always wondered who would use such a gimmicky device....now i know.) just under the bolt in case anything slipped.
universal joints and extensions are a must.
the ratcheting 12 mm helped a lot with mani support bolts. thanks. found it a pain, but not too bad getting the mani support bolts off. And from Top of engine feeling under worked best for me. Did not need to take the fan off....and i have pretty large (farmer size) hands.
The FCP'S vacuum tube, and larger tube to the ptc were almost too short.
The bottom tube on the oil separator to engine almost did not fit.....other people have mentioned these things too.
a few pics for your viewing pleasure. and again...thanks.
'98 V70 (T), 265k miles
what doesn't kill us makes us... bitter.
what doesn't kill us makes us... bitter.
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