Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

[tridents65]

I finally had time today to work on my daughters '95 850 volvo. Did the timing belt, serp. belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. With the help of this site I was able to do this fairly easily. Not fast, but spent the day on it. I have not started the car yet because tomorrow I will put in the new plugs and wires.
Here is my question: if some one can tell me if I have a problem or not. When I put the timing belt on I made sure it was tight on the right side (front of car) like the directions said. But I did not seem to get the belt as tight between the two camshaft sprockets. I used the IPD tool to lock the pulleys in place before I started and did not try to remove it to move the pulleys to tighten the belt. I pulled the belt across from the right side to the left (since the right side was tight. Just could not get any more of the slack out of it.
Before I took the old belt off I marked and counted the ribs between each sprocket that were not in contact with the sprockets (15). The new belt has 17 and looks loose to me. Everywhere else is tight as it should be.I hand turned the motor a half dozen times and the timing marks always come up good.
Start it up?

[Ozark Lee]

If the marks come up good after hand cranking it you are golden - Go for it.

...Lee

[tridents65]

that's what I'm thinking too.

[tridents65]

This morning I put in the new plugs, wires, rotor bug and cap. Gave it one more look over, crossed my fingers and hit the starter. Success!! No problems to which I am grateful to the help from the information found on this site! Now I'll study up on the PVC system. Smoke out of the dip stick and found oil under the valve cover. After that I have two torn CVC boots to deal with and then I will have all the known repairs made to this car. I have never worked on a Volvo before. Thinking as long as I'm learning to work on my daughters car maybe I should have one of my own. Maybe one that the prior owner has just had the timming belt and all that goes with it changed though

[JohnInVa]

Hi folks, new to the forum here, and a little confused. I'm helping a friend with his V70 xc that had the TB tensioner give out on him as he was pulling out of his driveway. Working on lining up the pulleys for TB, and he tells me that the 'W's scribed on the cam pulleys are the timing marks. I don't see a reference anywhere in this forum about the 'W's. Is he mistaken? I did see paint marks, as in the photos on page 1 by KC95Turbo, but don't recall right off where they fall when the 'W's are at 12:00 on the cam sprockets. Thanks in advance.

[DouglasTrumbo]

Does anybody have a picture of what the end of the crankshaft looks like that you have to turn to time the car?

[JohnInVa]

The crankshaft is the the one that has the bottom pulley that that drives both of the accessory belts. If you have the pulley off already, you will need to put the nut back on to turn the crankshaft for adjustment. It also is the bottom pulley for the timing belt. Sorry no pic, but hope this helps.

Does anybody have a picture of what the end of the crankshaft looks like that you have to turn to time the car?

[Juan62]

I just got done with a LONG day of working on the Volvo. I feel like I got into a fist fight with the thing. Anyway, I replaced the timing belt, TB tensioner, TB Idler, TB roller, and waterpump while I was down there and thought I would share some pics and info on it incase you were about to do it. If anyone has questions then please ask and I will help with what I can.

Quick list of things I did in order to replace everything:
1. remove sparkplug cover
2. loosen 10mm bolt holding down the fuel lines down by turbo.
3. take out bolt holding the fuel lines up on top of motor.
3. take out 10mm bolts on the top timing cover, leave top timing cover on though!
4: lift coolant tank up and disconnect connector on bottom and put on top of motor, then take out 12mm bolt holding the main side timing cover and remove side timing cover.
5. turn serpentine belt tensioner and lock in a pin to hold it in place.
6. remove serpentine belt
7. remove the two 12 mm bolts holding down the serpentine belt tensioner and remove that.
8. Jack up car and support on stands
9. remove right front wheel
10. remove wheel well cover nut and fold back cover and clamp vise grips on it to hold it in place.
11. put a 30mm socket on the crankshaft pulley and turn clockwise with a BIG rachet until you can find the marks on the cam gears. Those marks were very hard to see, but after a while of looking for it I finally found them.
12. once you line up the marks on the cam gears, look down on the crankshaft gear and look in the valley of the gear for a small notch, it should line up with a mark above it on the block. If you dont see it, turn the engine over another rev and line up the cam marks again and look again for it.
13. once you line up all marks, remove the top timing belt cover and then the top bolt on the tensioner and then the lower bolt, i think they were 10mm. then remove.
14. Remove two 10mm bolts on the timing belt guard on the right side behind the crankshaft pulley and remove.
15. carefully slide timing belt off of cam gears and work it out around the crankshaft pulley, jacking up the motor a little helped give some clearance.
16. now remove the tensioner idler torx bolt (T-45 I believe), that is the only thing holding that in.
17. remove the two 10 or 12mm bolts holding down the TB roller and remove.
18. Drain coolant from radiator, use a 6mm allen wrench and find a hole in the bottom radiator guard, up in there will be a petcock that you take out with the wrench. open up the coolant expansion cap to allow it to drain.
19. Remove the coolant bolt on bottom front right side of motor and allow coolant to drain.
20. remove 7 10mm bolts holding the waterpump down and gently tap with a hammer or similar to break it loose. have a catch can below it to collect some coolant. remove the waterpump.
21. clean all of the old gasket off and then put new waterpump on w/new gasket and tighten all bolts down to 15Ft-lbs.
22. install the new TB roller, TB tensioner idler.
23. work the new timing belt on starting at the right side of the crank and then around to the left until its around the crank. then go around the idler and waterpump. now pull the belt tight on the right side around the roller and start it around the intake cam and over to the exhaust side. when you start the exhaust side you should put a bungee cord on the tensioner idler to give it tension. make sure that the right side between crank and intake cam is TIGHT. If it is then install the tensioner and pull the pin out of the tensioner rod to free it.
24. turn the crankover two full revolutions and make sure all of the alignment marks are still good.
25. the rest is just putting everything back together in reverse order and then refilling the cooling system with coolant.

Here are some pics:
Pic of everything off and about to put new waterpump in:


New parts next to old parts:


New parts on:


Almost Done!:


Well.. there ya go.. after a good 7 hours of work.. I finally finished. Some things that would've helped me:
-IPD serpentine belt tensioner tool
-better work gloves to protect my hands!
-a lower back brace!
-a helper

Battlescars after it was all done...:

[mjfletch]

Thanks to everyone who posted instructions for changing timing belt and water pump. I changed my belt and water pump last weekend and everything went perfectly!!. I was a bit hesitant about doing the job and thinking of all the nightmares of what could go wrong. The only difficulty I had was removing the two bolts holding the serpentine belt tensioner. The top bolt came off without a problem, but the bottom bolt was a bit of a pain. The job took about 4 hours. Initially I was going to do the job myself, but my neighbor stopped by and was so fascinated by what I was doing, he stayed the entire time and helped me with lining-up timing marks and getting the new belt on. Bought a timing belt kit from fcp groton and saved about $550 from the $700 a local mechanic quoted me. I was nervous when I turned the key, but it started right up!

Next job will be replacing the inner and outer tie rods, and then the PCV system. I couldn't have done the timing belt without you guys, so thanks again!

[mjfletch]

I forgot one additional cost...a large pizza and 12pack for my neighbor that helped me!