2000 S40 Oil Pan Removal and O-Ring Replacement

[Choguy03]

I will post pictures and do a write up. Can anyone give me the torque specs for the oil pan bolts? Thanks. (I'm looking at you Bill.. )

[billofdurham]

Oil pan bolts = sump bolts - 17nm.

We are having a buy one get one free so the drain plug is 38nm.

Bill.

[Choguy03]

Thanks! I will post pictures this weekend.

[Choguy03]

I am doing this job to fix the ticking lifters these cars face. Just rebuild the head and I am still getting the ticking, so this seemed like the next logical step.

First, you are going to want to drain both the coolant and oil. Since we will be removing the oil cooler, we will need the coolant drained.

First, we are going to remove the subframe and cross member under the car. Start by removing the 2 bolts holding the cross member on. Once that is out of the way, you will need to remove the heat shield over the rear engine mount.

2 - 10mm bolts

Next we will remove the bolts through the two motor mounts, both front and rear.

Rear mount. 14mm bolt, 15mm nut. I think.

After both mount bolts are removed, you need to remove the 4 bolts from the subframe. Two in front, two in back.

Once the member is dropped, we will move on to the oil cooler. We will leave the oil cooler attached to the oil pan since the o-rings to the oil pan are $10 each from Volvo. We will just disconnect the two coolant hoses. It will have more coolant in it, so be prepared to catch it.

Disconnect two hoses. Note hose positions.

Now, on to the oil pan. Remove the two bolts to the trans, 14 mm. Now, we will loosen all other bolts, but do not remove them. Remove tension. Here are the locations of the pan bolts.

Two outside bolts are 90mm long and two inside bolts are 100mm.

9 bolts. All are the same length.

These 3 bolts are 40mm long.

9 bolts total.

Now, once all bolts are loose, remove all bolts except 1 in each corner. You will leave these on, so you can use a rubber mallet to hit the oil pan and loosen the pan. Once it is loose, you can remove the 4 bolts and drop the pan. It will have to come down then a little toward the trans to clear the oil pickup. Once it is removed, you will see something like this.

10 mm bolts. You can see where the two o rings go. One dropped with the pan the other stayed in the block. You can see the o ring pinched.

Remove the two bolts holding the oil pickup tube and remove.

Now, be sure to clean up both surfaces and replace the o-ring on the end of the oil pickup tube also. Clean the screen also.

Oil pan degreased and mating surface cleaned.

Cleaned up oil pickup tube and mating surface.

You will need to use the anerobic sealer on these parts, so be sure to put a think film on both surfaces. Insert the 4 corner bolts and finger tighten them to make contact between the oil pan and block. Vadis says to install the two 90 mm bolt to 25 NM then 48 NM, but I broke a bolt tightening to 48 NM, so I kept them at 25 NM. The other short bolts should be inserted and tightened to 17 NM in pairs of two working away from the trans. When you get to the 40 mm bolts, just insert and tighten to 17 NM also. NOTE: Be sure to apply thread sealer on the 100, 90, and 40 mm bolts. Replace the two coolant lines to the oil cooler.

At this point, you can start and run the car to check for leaks. When you confirm the oil pan is not leaking, install the subframe . Insert the two bolts through the motor mounts first, then the 4 bolt s(2 on front, 2 on back) of the subframe. Install the heat shield and you are done.

[billofdurham]

Another good, clear write-up.

You must spend a lot of time lying on your back taking photos.

As promised, it is heading for the Repair Database.

Bill.

[Choguy03]

Well, I hope to be spending more time inside the car soon.