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How do I install sway bar bushings? (and repair report)

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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utvol1984
Posts: 40
Joined: 10 January 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Salisbury NC

How do I install sway bar bushings? (and repair report)

Post by utvol1984 »

I will be replacing the sway bar bushings on my 93 850 GLT - the last thing that I think is causing unwanted racket from the front suspension. Has anyone done this recently or know how you do it? I assume the bushings are enclosed and that you have to slip them over the end of the bar and into position? My Haynes book says you have to remove the steering gear to get the bar out. I find that hard to believe and it doesn't look like you need to take the bar out to get at the bushings. Any advice will be most welcome.

At this point I have replaced struts, spring "hats," bump stops, ball joints, sway bar links, tie rod ends, passenger side transaxle, bearing hubs, and passenger side motor mount. I did all the work myself - hardest part was getting the nut off the top of the old struts - you have hold the shaft still and get the nut to turn - had to take them to a guy with an impact wrench. Anyway all these new parts totally elmininated the horrendous klunking and squeaking - and all the old parts were toast - rubber grease cups totally ripped up and the motor mount was totally shot. I still have a squeak from the sway bar - you can hear it when you bounce the car up and down and I can actually feel it when I put my hand on the bushing and have someone bounce the car a little. Also when I had the links out I could jiggle the sway bar a little - sure sign of worn out bushings. Anyway, I got all my parts from FCP Groton and have been VERY pleased with the quality of parts, ease of ordering, fast shipping and their prices are excellent compared to Volvo and seem to be lower than most other online sellers.

White850Turbo
Posts: 923
Joined: 11 April 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Plano, TX

Post by White850Turbo »

If you've done all that other work yourself, you'll have no trouble w/ the swaybar bushings. Basically, have the car jacked up, wheels off and supported w/ jackstands on the front of the subframe, but not on the big bolts at the front on each side. Remove the swaybar links from the swaybar first. Then loosen the bolts holding the steering rack to the subframe. Then you'll want to place the jack under the rear of the subframe and jack it up just so it meets the subframe. Then, loosen the two big bolts at the front of the subframe 3 turns or so. Next step is to remove the bolts and plate the hold the rear of the subframe to the frame of the car. Assuming you loosened everything correctly, you should now be able to VERY carefully lower the jack a few inches, giving you access to the swaybar and its bushings.
-Sean

1995 850 Turbo (Extensively Modded)

1998 S70 T5 (Almost Stock)

utvol1984
Posts: 40
Joined: 10 January 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Salisbury NC

Post by utvol1984 »

Thanks very much for the info Sean - I will tackle it the way you suggest. Bushings should arrive today - perhaps by the weekend I will be completely rattle and klunk free!

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