My car has been acting a little weird lately if the car is cold it starts in a split second but if the car is warm from going a few miles to a store or even on any sort of long trip it takes 4-7 tries to start again. I suck at wire problems but I can not find one so I sort of ruled out melted or melting wire would like some more idea or a starter write up so I can check under the hood again and know what I'm looking for. Or if I'm way off let me know.
Thanks
Chris
Starting problem
Generally, a warm start problem is a coolant temp sensor gone bad. To verify, when the car is giving you a hard time on a warm start pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the starter. The car will start after a short bit and run for 5-10 seconds and die. This tells you that you are running rich for the warm engine which is signaled to the ecu from the cts.
1998 V70 GLT, 15G swap
Fairfield, CT
Fairfield, CT
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850_GLT_Owner
- Posts: 59
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- Year and Model: 93 850, 97 850R
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This sounds exactly like a starter problem I had earlier this year. It always started first try when cold, but when the car was warmed up, I would have to try to start it a handful of times before it would actually start. When you are trying to start the car and failing(those 4-7 times) what is going on? Is the starter cranking the engine but not starting it? Does it sound like the starter is cranking the engine then disengaging, causing the starter to spin freely? In my case, i'd turn the key and the starter would crank the engine briefly followed by the starter disengaging from the engine and the starter motor spinning freely, which ended with a clunk. Sometimes it wouldn't even crank the engine and i could hear the starter motor whirring but not cranking. I would repeat this process until the engine actually started. My starter solenoid was going bad and heat exacerbated the problem. Replaced the starter with a used one and the problems went away...until that starter went bad about a week ago(motor died).
This is one of the easier things to replace in my opinion. It's located below the intake manifold towards the drivers side. Disconnect the positive battery lead. I removed fan and fan shroud for clearance. Two bolts on the transmission side of the starter and one that bolted the starter down to the engine block on the opposite side of the starter from the first two bolts you removed. Remove the positive battery connection on the starter solenoid, and the small clip on wire/plug that is located below and between the terminals on the solenoid. Took me less than two hours first time going at a nice and easy pace.
Hopefully this helps.
This is one of the easier things to replace in my opinion. It's located below the intake manifold towards the drivers side. Disconnect the positive battery lead. I removed fan and fan shroud for clearance. Two bolts on the transmission side of the starter and one that bolted the starter down to the engine block on the opposite side of the starter from the first two bolts you removed. Remove the positive battery connection on the starter solenoid, and the small clip on wire/plug that is located below and between the terminals on the solenoid. Took me less than two hours first time going at a nice and easy pace.
Hopefully this helps.
It cranks over in each case but it sounds as if the battery almost gives out before it starts (the very first time it happened I thought my battery had died but then it started right up). If I have to turn it over a bunch of times it sounds like the starter can't crank the engine all the way.
I just finished with this same problem. I had 5 cold solder joints in the puel pump relay. I had them resoldered up and it solved my problem. The car wouldn't start after it was up to temp. This might be the same thing you are going through.
I am having similar issues as have many others in these groups. I would appreciate knowing the exact location of these
cold soldered connections you and others have mentioned. Are they in the fuse/relay box or inside the relays and if so,
how do you open them to look? Also others have referred to the gray relay on the top of he radiator shroud. Thanks!
cold soldered connections you and others have mentioned. Are they in the fuse/relay box or inside the relays and if so,
how do you open them to look? Also others have referred to the gray relay on the top of he radiator shroud. Thanks!
- rspi
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Contact rspi..
I'm pretty sure they are talking about the fuel pump relay under the fuse box. The relay at the fan is the injector relay.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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bronxnativ
- Posts: 268
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I had same symptoms as OP. My problem turned out to be the starter, ALTHOUGH coolant temp sensor can be the issue. Have your starter checked at an Autozone or Checkers; then go from their.
Al
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