97 850; no turn signals, hazard flashers or high beams

[MadeInJapan]

Thanks Rich...I have the wiring diagram from the extra DVD that came with VIDAS. Problem is I can't read these! I can upload it if you want but will have to dig it out (I never loaded it on my computer) so post back if you want it. In my case, I was able to keep spraying my ignition key opening and fiddling with my key until a spring inside finally got unstuck. Everything is fine now and I can use my key FOB again. I should have posted back as to the resolution of my problem.
Cheers! Dave

P.S. You might put your flasher switches/relays up on the for sale section of the forum. Someone's bound to need these at some point. Maybe a short introduction as to what they are and what happens to a Volvo when they die would be helpful...just a thought.

[ilcalvo]

Dave, you may be right. The linkage from the key/lock seems to be a linear plunger, and it probably is spring loaded. That may be the cause of the need for the Volvo key jiggle.

I think I will put the parts up on the for sale list. Someone may as well get some use out of them!

Thanks
Rich

[ricklesgibson]

This thread seems to describe a problem I'm having now with my 96 850. No high beams, turn signals, hazards along with no high beam indicator lamp on or other notifications. I've tried jiggling but it hasn't worked. Maybe I'm not doing it right. How does one correctly jiggle the key to get it to work?

I think I'll try a few other things but am thinking I'll have to replace the ignition switch as advised here. Would a WD-40 like spray lubricant be advisable?

[jblackburn]

Just twitching the key once it was in position II always worked for me, but I believe yours may be beyond that.

[ilcalvo]

Even though I did replace the electrical switch part of my Volvo's ignition switch, this problem still pops up periodically. My solution is to pull the fuse that protects this circuit, clean the blades on a clean cloth, and reinstall it. The fuse is never blown, but doing this always restores the flashers, turn signals and high beams to working order again. I thnk it's Fuse 11, but don't take my fuzzy memory as authoritative. My car's off at college with my son, and this is what I told him when he had the same problem.

[precopster]

Did you use a new OEM part or a generic copy? This is very important as we've had a few posters who have found a cheaper alternative and still had trouble. The OEM switch costs around $48 and is worth every cent. I've replaced one in the 2 850s we've had and immediately all electrical problems ceased except for the PNP switch which is next on the wife's car

[ilcalvo]

Althouh I changed thhe electrical part of my igntion switch with a good used part, the problem reappears occasionally. If the problem is really the ignition switch, why would the fuse removal and replacement fix the problem? Damned if I know.

[precopster]

By removing the fuse you are stopping the flow of current through the used burned contacts of the electrical part of the switch. Every time you reconnect the fuse the current jumps back across the contacts and presto; it works again.

I NEVER replace something I can't open and inspect with something used. Unless you can see the contacts of the switch how do you know they aren't burned and seeing as the ignition switch is such a common wear item in these cars the only solution is OEM NEW.

[cuhfs]

Posting here for the next guy with this nightmare. Had brake light, signals and all kinds of weird electrical light issues. Replaced one of the rear bulb carriers that was obviously bad, using a part from a junk car... then spends lots of hours looking for a bad ground. Gave up. Took to Indy repair. Indy replaced both right and left bulb carriers with used ones. Problem fixed.