2002 S80 drivers window regulator replacement

EChem · Post by **EChem** » 06 Dec 2011, 08:50

I have to replace my drivers window regulator as a couple of teeth (3rd and 4th from the end) on the gear are broken so the wndow slips and is about 1/8" open instead of fully closed. I was looking at the post from Bajaman from 4/09 in this forum and in the VADIS pdf from vegasjetskier, it mentions that the window regulator has to be initialized after installation. Anyone have any idea as to how this is accomplished?
Also, was wondering if there is enough clearance to use bolts and a nylon locking nut instead of the rivets to affix the new regulator to the door frame. I had the panel apart to see the problem but have now put it back together, and I didn't think about this until after I had reassembled, although I may not have been able to determine until I have the regulator removed. I just thought bolts would be better if have to end up replacing it again, but don't know how much clearance there is from the frame where the regulator is attached to the movement of the gear mechanism.

Thanks.

Post by **yuckuJackD** » 11 Dec 2011, 05:05

Overview:

How to remove the door pannel (pic's only): pic' 1-40

Replacing the sliding shoe, Window lifter (pic's only): pic's 40-84

As I only had to replace the sliding shoes, i didn't replaced the whole lift mechanism. So here you are a how-to taken from VADIS:

S80_2000_Window_Lift_Mechanism.pdf: (280.31 KiB) Downloaded 870 times

Good Luck

T64me · Post by **T64me** » 19 Nov 2014, 20:23

I was able to use machine screws and nuts rather than rivets for 3 of the 4 fastener locations. The bottom 2 are fairly easy to access. For the top left I used duct tape to attach a socket to the tip of my finger so I could reach around and hold the nut as I tightened the screw (sounds crazy but it worked). The upper right had to be done with a rivet. I used a Harbor Freight pneumatic rivet gun for that one. It barely worked. I figured with the other 3 very tight with machine screws, washers and nylock nuts, I could get by with the 4th being sorta snug.

I was told that you need to use new blue slider blocks so I replaced those and sprayed the tracks that they ride in with white grease. All seems to work well now.