1992 960 Wagon - lost head gasket

960brickman · Post by **960brickman** » 17 Dec 2011, 06:50

New member to the forum. My 1992 960 Wagon with 180k miles dumped a bunch of steam while on the highway a couple weeks ago. Next exit ramp it stalled and wouldn't restart. An hour later got it started and drove 20 minutes home - started steam again about 10 minutes into the trip. Next day opened the hood, started car and 5 minutes later steam started dumping out of the heater valve. Replaced valve and steam started coming out of one of the heater hoses. Replaced both heater hoses and steam started leaking from radiator. Took to my trusted mechanic who replaced radiator (and serpentine belt while he was in there). After 5 minutes of running car he saw bubbling in overflow tank. We're pretty sure we need to replace head gasket. Car is now on Craigslist and will sell to the person who gives me closest to what I owe mechanic - $567.60. Heated leather seats (drivers is very worn); new radiator & serpentine belt; roof rack; working leak-free sunroof; fair interior; no rust on body; 3 month old battery.

Oil looks good on dipstick (no milky look) but very small puffs of steam can be seen coming from oil dipstick tube when engine is running and oil dipstick removed.

Thoughts? I'd prefer to get another year or two out of car. What about liquid head gasket repair products?

Post by **billofdurham** » 17 Dec 2011, 11:20

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

It does look like you need a new head gasket which can be an expensive repair on that car if you aren't able to do it yourself. An added expense on Volvo head gasket jobs is having the head checked by a machine shop and skimmed if necessary.

I am not a believer in liquid repair products whether they are for the head gasket, oil seals or any other type of gasket. If the liquid has to block a leak somewhere how do you know it isn't going to block something else?

Bill.

Post by **precopster** » 17 Dec 2011, 14:43

This isn't going to make your day but the 92s were amongst the most troublesome with regards to block design with some of them suffering from a porous block. I'm not a believer in the explanation that it only happens to examples whose coolant is not genuine blue Volvo Type C

I know another 960 user here in Melbourne who purchased a low mileage example back in '97 for $33K from a Volvo dealer here in Melbourne. It had been meticulously maintained by the director of Ansett Airlines (now defunct) and the block failed and was replaced. Mine also failed when I purchased it with around 90k two years ago. Fortunately his was under warranty; mine wasn't and cost me plenty.

Just be aware that if you are having the gasket replaced ask the mechanic to lift up the exhaust manifold and get under it with an inspection light so he can clearly see the block surface as this is where they crack and it's usually a large one extending from the front of the block all the way to the rear. If you have a light you can do this yourself before you take it anywhere.

After having said this I've got to say I haven't driven a smoother engine or enjoyed a car more than this one.

I hope yours is not one of the affected ones. What is the mileage on yours and do you know if the block is the original?

Post by **billofdurham** » 17 Dec 2011, 15:19

The 960 block failures always occur directly beneath the exhaust manifold between ports #4, 5 and 6 and usually appear as a line of pinholes in the side of the block. In extreme cases there can be more than one lot of pinholes. The porous block problem should not be confused with other potential leaks nor with a head gasket going bad.

Bill.