I Found that the replacement connector plug they give you easily comes apart. Then you pull the little green rubber boots back on the new red wires the wires will then insert into the plug far enough to snap into place as designed. Reassemble the plug and install it on the new part. The red/green wire is #1 and the brown/yellow wire is # 2 on the new plug, at least on a 99V70R.
The black marked terminal of the plugs in the pictures is the # 1 green/red wire terminal.
Hope this helps.
Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332
Hi Ed
My V40 seems to have a similer problem as your car, the engine sound like a Diesel but is a petrol 1.8. I get the P0011 code witch is some early timing of the valves. After some back and forward on the internet I found that I should check the CVVT but have some questions to this.
I disassemblyed the CVVT from the Engine and check the gasket. = ok
The Coil inside the CVVT is app 12 ohm, (so this is properly ok) but when I apply 12V DC to the coil, the housing of the coil gives a small sound like a bumb and then nothing hapends. ?
I have imagined that the coil should turn the piston inside the CVVT or get it to move, or something.
When Applying power to the coil do you know what there should happend ?
BR SB
My V40 seems to have a similer problem as your car, the engine sound like a Diesel but is a petrol 1.8. I get the P0011 code witch is some early timing of the valves. After some back and forward on the internet I found that I should check the CVVT but have some questions to this.
I disassemblyed the CVVT from the Engine and check the gasket. = ok
The Coil inside the CVVT is app 12 ohm, (so this is properly ok) but when I apply 12V DC to the coil, the housing of the coil gives a small sound like a bumb and then nothing hapends. ?
I have imagined that the coil should turn the piston inside the CVVT or get it to move, or something.
When Applying power to the coil do you know what there should happend ?
BR SB
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Indy V70 XC
- Posts: 20
- Joined: 7 January 2013
- Year and Model: '99 V70XC, 2010 XC90
- Location: Indianapolis, IN, United States
Why not try using a used solenoid (ebay-$35) with new gasket (12.99), as the used solenoid will have the standard connector, so that no splicing is required?
Current: 1999 Volvo V70XC (Silver/Gray) - 153K miles - Gray leather interior
2000 Volvo V70XC (Silver) - Sold 154K miles
1999 Volvo V70XC (Black) - Sold 156K miles
1987 240 (Blue/Blue) Sold - Odometer stopped at 291K, car did not
2000 Volvo V70XC (Silver) - Sold 154K miles
1999 Volvo V70XC (Black) - Sold 156K miles
1987 240 (Blue/Blue) Sold - Odometer stopped at 291K, car did not
Could be wrong: Heard that the new solenoid is newly designed that it will not trap debris.Indy V70 XC wrote:Why not try using a used solenoid (ebay-$35) with new gasket (12.99), as the used solenoid will have the standard connector, so that no splicing is required?
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blandis
- Posts: 113
- Joined: 29 May 2009
- Year and Model: 99 S70 T5
- Location: Dallas, TX
- Been thanked: 3 times
Did this repair on my 99 S70 T5 today. Took about 20 minutes. New gasket has a screen filter in it where the old one does not. Should help trap any debris that would get into the unit. That being said should that gasket be a maintenance item? If it becomes plugged I would think it would starve the unit for oil.... leading to failure?
I used the supplied harness to see if I have issues. Used a bit of grease on them to make sure they seat well, and listen for the "click" when plugging the wires into the supplied harness. Will drive it a few days and see if the code comes back.
When looking for the numbers on the harness.... please note they are very, very small. They are on the end of the new harness which is grey. By end I mean where it seats to the new unit.
I used the supplied harness to see if I have issues. Used a bit of grease on them to make sure they seat well, and listen for the "click" when plugging the wires into the supplied harness. Will drive it a few days and see if the code comes back.
When looking for the numbers on the harness.... please note they are very, very small. They are on the end of the new harness which is grey. By end I mean where it seats to the new unit.
Brad
Nashua, NH
2017 XC60 AWD
2006 XC90 2.5T
Nashua, NH
2017 XC60 AWD
2006 XC90 2.5T
-
allenzachary
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 9 August 2013
- Year and Model: 2006 XC70
- Location: Columbia, SC
Couple of comments:
I have pulled several CVVT units out of wrecked junkers with great success. I've sold at least half a dozen on ebay, each with 60-day full-refund warranties and never heard a peep out of my buyers.
You can easily test your CVVT module with an ohm meter. Set the scale to 200, put a lead on each of the two pins, check the reading. It should be steady and below 100 ohms. If it is above 100, fluctuates wildly, or has an infinite reading, the unit is bad. Steady below 100 indicates a good unit. I've found light staining of the business end is ok, as look as it isn't gunked up with dirty oil and grit.
I have pulled several CVVT units out of wrecked junkers with great success. I've sold at least half a dozen on ebay, each with 60-day full-refund warranties and never heard a peep out of my buyers.
You can easily test your CVVT module with an ohm meter. Set the scale to 200, put a lead on each of the two pins, check the reading. It should be steady and below 100 ohms. If it is above 100, fluctuates wildly, or has an infinite reading, the unit is bad. Steady below 100 indicates a good unit. I've found light staining of the business end is ok, as look as it isn't gunked up with dirty oil and grit.
allenzachary
2006 XC70, 2002 XC70
2006 XC70, 2002 XC70
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treestone27
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 26 April 2014
- Year and Model: s80t6 2000
- Location: United States
nice thread! thanks! I replaced mine on my 2000 volvo s80t6, and i rewired it in the process as described above. I did this in conjunction with Mass Air Filter (maf) replacement and breather system redo (not sure that's the right phrase for it), in addition to replacing some top pipes. The RPMs quick vacillating at low RPMs, but now they're jumping between 2k and 2.5k RPMs - any ideas? i'm going to post a separate thread for that. thanks!
Hey Guys, thanks for an awesome thread and site!
I recently changed the solenoid my self, but the car is still going rouge, I had the p1332 code before I started so I know it was the solenoid.
I marked "1" on the new one and and connected with green/brown.
and same with "2" with yellow/brown.
Maybe the cables don't have good connection enough, still?
Could I harm the solenoid if I try to switch the cables apart to see if there is any difference?
Thanks from Thomas in Sydney/ Australia
I recently changed the solenoid my self, but the car is still going rouge, I had the p1332 code before I started so I know it was the solenoid.
I marked "1" on the new one and and connected with green/brown.
and same with "2" with yellow/brown.
Maybe the cables don't have good connection enough, still?
Could I harm the solenoid if I try to switch the cables apart to see if there is any difference?
Thanks from Thomas in Sydney/ Australia
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