Timing belt/waterpump (time required).

tomatoes4all · Post by **tomatoes4all** » 18 Dec 2011, 03:02

Hi all,
It is time to change the timing belt and tensioner on my 960, 6304S series. I bought the kit from FCP while the 15% off sale was on, discount paid for shipping to Australia! Anyway, how long should it take an experienced Volvo specialist to change timing belt, tensioner and water pump? I was quoted 4.5-5 hours by phone, but that sounds overly slow. I do not have the courage to tackle this myself yet.https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... e=post&f=2# I am usually keen enough, but to hear 24 valves destroying themselves due to my lack of skill would be pretty permanent...Can anyone shine a light on how long this should take? Thanks in advance, Regards, Erik.

Post by **precopster** » 18 Dec 2011, 04:01

Let's face it. In Australia there aren't as many 960s around as we'd all like (especially when it comes time to sourcing parts)

Many dealers may remember that it's basically a 850/V70 setup which WOULD take 4.5-5 hrs.

The 960 setup is so easy to access once the thermatic fan and accessory tensioner is removed (5 mins for both) I can probably replace the whole lot in 3.5-4 hrs. The water pump's mating face is easy to get to (being the most time intensive part to clean the old gasket off) being right in front of you.

Perhaps you can call them again and remind them it's NOT an 850 and is much quicker to access perhaps their memory can be jogged.

The offer still stands to fit them if you're in the area, Eric

Post by **billofdurham** » 19 Dec 2011, 12:20

The book quotes 1.4 hours to replace the timing belt; 1.6 hours to replace the timing belt and tensioner and 1.6 hours to replace the water pump. However, as replacing the water pump necessitates removing the timing belt, that time can be cut considerably.

Perhaps that "Volvo specialist" doesn't want to print his own money, just take it off unsuspecting customers.

Bill.

Post by **rspi** » 27 Dec 2011, 19:04

You can replace it yourself. Use my idiot proof instructions. Took me 4 hours and I'm pretty slow.
http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyi ... g_belt.htm

tomatoes4all · Post by **tomatoes4all** » 29 Dec 2011, 02:09

Hi rspi,
Thank you, these are excellent instructions. I am getting more confident to tackle this myself. All seems logical, but how do you turn the crank 2 turns? This must seem like a silly question, but I rather ask now than pull my hair out during the moment of truth...
Hi Precopster, can you add something for the not-initiated? I can use all the help available.
Thanks both and best regards from New South Wales, Erik.

Post by **precopster** » 29 Dec 2011, 03:40

Ok so you're turning over a six cylinder engine by hand which is harder than a five.

On the harmonic balancer or crank pulley as it's called you'll see a very large central nut but I don't bother with using this nut, I just turn one of the four 13mm bolts to rotate it. Always turn the engine clockwise.

Get used to turning the engine by hand to reach the timing mark on the crank. If you go past it just go around another 2 times to reach it again. Remember it's 2 turns of the crank vs one turn of the cam sprockets.

When the motor is timed cylinders 3 & 4 are roughly 1 inch or approx 25mm under the top of their travel. You can assess this by removing spark plug 3 or 4 and placing a coat hanger in there to find uppermost piston travel. Piston 1 has nothing to do with TDC. It will be down quite low.

I'm assuming you have a new hydraulic tensioner which makes this very easy. If you're replacing the front cam seals scribe the 10mm bolt holes on the cam sprockets by scratching them with a blade or a permanent marker. Mark the camshaft AND the sprockets and their relationship to each other. TAKE PHOTOS. Also on the exhaust cam you'll have a dampener behind the cam sprocket. Mark which side is the front and which is the rear and make sure you place it back the same way.

If you're replacing the water pump there are 2 10mm bolts holding the plastic timing cover on. One is quite visible on the front, the other one is hiding in a hidden area near the idler pulley on the right of it. I always remove the plastic cover once all the timing components are removed so I can get a better look at the block face so I can scrape the water pump gasket and do some degreasing.

While doing timing just keep tension b/w crank pulley and inlet sprocket, then use the slack to wrap around other components in an anti clockwise direction.

Before starting put the engine on TDC and take a photo of exactly where the marks are in relation to the upper timing cover (the small cover with the timing marks) this way you can refer to the photo when placing it back together.
Don't bother with the rear cam seals if they aren't leaking. They are a PITA and VERY hard to reach. Besides you'll need a cam seal driver for the rears.

Let us know how you're going.