850 140k Major Maintenance

[geokilla]

Hey guys, I was supposed to have this 140k (240k km) service done a year ago, and I did, sorta. I brought it to a Volvo specialist to get it done and they said nothing needed to be replaced because everything was all good. Well the car now has 263k km and I'm starting to get a bit worried, due to my suspension and brake recommendation thread. Did I get screwed over and it's now coming back to haunt me? The dealer said everything else is still fine except for the normal wear and tear items so should I just wait it out till the next major service, which is 25k km from now, at 288k km?

[jblackburn]

The timing belt interval on a 2000 is 105k/7 yrs. Assuming the timing belt was done back at 105k miles like it should have been, whichever of those comes next is when the belt needs to be changed again.

[jt74]

Hey gang....

7 hours working on the car makes your back ache. Got the new water pump in, changed out the expansion tank, cap and the hose, upper radiator hose, ( Have the lower hose but didn't have enough time to change it) new thermostat, flushed the trans, oil change and filter, wiper blades, and gave her a bath.

I really wanted to get the timing belt and accessories done but didn't have enough loot to do it in one shot. Will hit it in the next couple of weeks. I really needed to get that other stuff taken care of as I got that new gig so I will be driving over the Pali daily for my commute to work. New radiator and my cooling system will be brand new.

I have never changed out a waterpump like that before and was kinda nervous about doing it, especially because I usually have my buddy helping me with major stuff but was going at it solo this time. That being said, Lee, your instructions are perfect and for anyone that can read and turn a wrench, it's very manageable with your post.

I know the thing is $30 bucks, but I have to tell you the piece of mind that it gave me was well worth it, especially after I was done and hand turned the crank twice to find the timing marks were spot on.I guess they printed the labels on these things upside down as I have read that some other people could only get it in that way as well.



Another thing that really helped was getting the expansion tank out of the way.



Using vice grips on the wheel well flap saved me a lot of frustration.



For the serpentine tensioner I didn't have the IPD belt tool. I tried the coin trick but it didn't work for me so I used a 6'' cold chisel and crescent wrench and it worked perfect.

Don't think I would have had as much success without your instructions Lee. Thanks a whole heap!!!

[polskamafia mjl]

Thanks a lot Lee for the write up. The hardest part for me was finding a tool(s) to release the serp belt tensioner and then reinstalling the new serp belt. Other than that, everything was just like you said.

- Marcin

[chax]

I apologize if this has already been mentioned: I didn't read all the entries in this thread.

Note that a piece of 3/4" hollow steel stock will fit perfectly into the recess on the serpentine belt tensioner. It will actually wedge itself into the recess pretty good. So good, in fact, that I hammered it in so it would be as secure as possible...and left it there. Also note that a 19mm spanner fits the 3/4" stock almost perfectly.

[IceTurbo]

I just want to thank you for making this, but after replacing my belt, I have one thing to add.

Remember to thread the belt around the rubber appendage on the bottom of the crankshaft. You cant see it, but if you put your hand down there, you can feel it. If you don't the belt won't go on and you'll spend a great deal of time swearing and yanking on the tensioner.

Good luck, and once you get the tensioner idle roller off, this job is a piece of cake!

[ArtCan]

98 S70 GLT 235,000 kms, made in Belgum for Canada.
This is a very helpful post. Thanks Ozark Lee.
I don't know who last replaced my timing belt, but when I position the crank at its timing mark - the cam marks are 2 teeth out of position, i.e. late getting to their marks when the crank is turned clockwise. Am I reading the crank marker incorrectly? Is it possible to verify that I'm reading the crank position correctly by placing #1 piston at TDC using a dowel in the spark plug hole? Is piston #1 at TDC with the crank on its correct mark?
There is no interference with valves with the belt in its old position, nor in the position with all marks lined up, but I expect it'll run best with the belt mounted correctly.

[taxi]

I would also like to thank you for your guide, and add pictures of my cam/crank locking tools, they are a life saver if its your first time and you want to be absolutely sure (they only fit one way)

First the cam locking tool, note that it locks the cam SHAFTS, not the cam gear. Before applying the tool, you losen the three bolts that holds the gears on the cam shafts. Ater this, the marks on the gears are useless, make new ones!


Then the crank shaft locking tool:


Inserted behind the starter:


When the tools are in place, you put the new belt on, release the tensioner and then re-tighten the cam gear bolts! And you can be 100% sure the engine is timed perfectly!
If the old marks dont line up, dont forget to make new ones!
And please tell me if you can buy these tools in america, australia or great britain? I know of course you can by them quite cheaply in scandinavia, but if they are expensive in other parts of the world I can stop talking about them!

[rspi]

Lee, you mention that you got some bad parts in the past. Are you saying parts that did not fit properly or failed very quickly?

Do you guys think there are move belt failures with belts simply breaking or roller failures?

[Ozark Lee]

Lee, you mention that you got some bad parts in the past. Are you saying parts that did not fit properly or failed very quickly?

My problems have been with tensioner rollers from FCP. They are sold as "OEM Manufacturer" and they do have INA cast into the side but they are obvious counterfeits.

The casting itself is warped and causes the belt to track off of the front of the sprockets by 1/16" to 1/8". The mounting bolt is another problem in that the shoulder on the bolt is flush with the back of the casting which causes the roller to bind to the face of the block and not swivel like it should. Since it does not swivel it does not maintain proper pressure on the belt itself.

I would put them into the "did not fit properly" category. I reported the problem to FCP and I was surprised when I got the same junk 6 months later. What I wound up doing is stealing the bearing and roller off of the FCP replacement and then mounting it back onto the original OEM casting with the OEM bolt. I have two of them that are coming up on their belt service interval again and I will check the bearings for play then but I haven't heard any bad noises from them.

...Lee