Hi Folks,
I have a 2004 S40 (62K miles) and when inserting the key and moving to positions 1 and 2 there is no problem. However, moving to position 3 or cranking the engine the key catches just before it cranks. I have to turn it off and turn it back on several times before it will finally move to position 3 and crank over.
I saw the post for the ignition switch issue for the 1998 V70. I'm posting this because I want to be sure the issue is similare.
I called the dealer I described the issue as I did above, and they are saying I need to order three different parts.
1. Tumbler Lock Cylinder: $113.02
2. Column Lock: $170.55
3. Bracket Kit (This has the Shear Pins in it.) $41.47
4. Labor at 2 hours ($120.00 per hour): $240.00
Cost: $565.04 (This doesn't include coding the 2 keys that come with the tumbler set).
Can anyone help me here with perhaps detailed instructions and pictures how to replace? I can typically fix little things like replacing brake pads, hoses, and small parts. Would this be very complicated to repair? What of the three parts do you recommend I order to start with?
I'm thnking that the Tumbler Lock Cylinder and the Bracket Kit is a must. Do you agree?
Can't start the car....Julmans
2004 S40 Ignition Tumbler Lock Cylinder Issue
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BerniniCaCO3
- Posts: 39
- Joined: 5 February 2010
- Year and Model: V70XC / 2001
- Location: Towson, MD
have you fixed this yet?
I do not have an encyclopedic knowledge of volvo models and years, so forgive me if something's a little off.
I've done just a couple ignition (lock) cylinders and can't remember which year/model volvo it was.
I've done one column lock, on an S40 in fact.
It's not the column lock.
That locks the steering, so someone stealing your car won't be able to steer it. If it's enabled, it also disables the starter, so you just hear a *click* but the starter doesn't turn over the engine. You'll get a notice on the DIM about "steering lock enabled, please turn the steering and try again" (paraphrasing).
I just did one last week. That's not your problem.
You can probably do the ignition lock. I think I did it on an XC90, not the same chassis, but it ought to be a similarly inspired design.
Pull the steering wheel all the way down and out and relock it.
Remove the three trim screws from under the the steering column. They'll be T25 torx. Use a little plastic prybar (harbor freight sells an excellent, cheap little set of trim tools for $8- but I imagine a parts store will have 'em too) to first pry the rubber flap off the top, then the top trim cover from the bottom, since you have the screws out.
Now you should see it all. I can't remember, but you'll figure out how the actual portion that starts the car, on the left, separates from the ignition lock.
In fact! Now, you can start the car. If the key is in position 2 (so security functions are disabled, it recognizes your key), you can separate the white plastic ignition switch and manually turn it clockwise with a little flathead screwdriver and start the car. Which is what the key should have been able to do, but for the lock cylinder.
We do that to get the car into the shop: disassemble it to that point if it was towed in, so we can start it and drive it into the shop bay, then resume work.
Next, you need to simply remove the lock cylinder.
The shear pins can be a pita. You need a quality, sharp drill bit to take the head off the shear pin, and then we usually use right angle pneumatic drills to fit in there-- a regular hand drill will bump into the center console. Or get a right angle attachment for your drill.
Or, what also works, is a small metal chisel and a small hammer, and start tapping around the flat edge of the shear pin as far off center as it still bites, and start turning it out (ccw). It might be cheapest, before you run out and buy a right angle air drill and air compressor! And it almost as fast. Hopefully, broken loose, you can just thread it out by hand after that.
I realize that's incomplete, and there are no photos.
But yeah, you can figure it out.
By the way, are you *sure* it's 2 hours labor? It only takes us 30 minutes. I'm not flat rate yet, so I have not paid attention to labor times on this job...
And, what the hell is the bracket kit? The shear pins are always included with the lock cylinder if I recall correctly. There's no bracket you should have to service. For that matter, if you don't care, why get shear pins? Just match the thread at home depot and get something more serviceable. Note, that the shear pins shear at a fairly low torque, so remember not to overtighten a regular bolt. And note, that your car is easier to steal now. I think that's a main reason for the shear pins. But you don't need to have them, and I don't know how many thieves are drooling over a 2004 S40 on the off chance that having removed the steering column trim, they might find regular bolts in your car of all cars!
Also, and again I'm trying to remember as i only did one or two and it's been a few months, but I want to say that the metal part of the key can just be transferred over to the plastic fob that contains the computer chip? Pop off the back of the key with a tiny screwdriver, and probably disassembles with tiny torx. I don't think you need to reprogram keys when you do ignition cylinders, in fact, I'm almost certain of it. If you've now got a new cut pattern on your new key teeth with your new lock cylinder, just transfer the new key teeth to the old fobs.
I do not have an encyclopedic knowledge of volvo models and years, so forgive me if something's a little off.
I've done just a couple ignition (lock) cylinders and can't remember which year/model volvo it was.
I've done one column lock, on an S40 in fact.
It's not the column lock.
That locks the steering, so someone stealing your car won't be able to steer it. If it's enabled, it also disables the starter, so you just hear a *click* but the starter doesn't turn over the engine. You'll get a notice on the DIM about "steering lock enabled, please turn the steering and try again" (paraphrasing).
I just did one last week. That's not your problem.
You can probably do the ignition lock. I think I did it on an XC90, not the same chassis, but it ought to be a similarly inspired design.
Pull the steering wheel all the way down and out and relock it.
Remove the three trim screws from under the the steering column. They'll be T25 torx. Use a little plastic prybar (harbor freight sells an excellent, cheap little set of trim tools for $8- but I imagine a parts store will have 'em too) to first pry the rubber flap off the top, then the top trim cover from the bottom, since you have the screws out.
Now you should see it all. I can't remember, but you'll figure out how the actual portion that starts the car, on the left, separates from the ignition lock.
In fact! Now, you can start the car. If the key is in position 2 (so security functions are disabled, it recognizes your key), you can separate the white plastic ignition switch and manually turn it clockwise with a little flathead screwdriver and start the car. Which is what the key should have been able to do, but for the lock cylinder.
We do that to get the car into the shop: disassemble it to that point if it was towed in, so we can start it and drive it into the shop bay, then resume work.
Next, you need to simply remove the lock cylinder.
The shear pins can be a pita. You need a quality, sharp drill bit to take the head off the shear pin, and then we usually use right angle pneumatic drills to fit in there-- a regular hand drill will bump into the center console. Or get a right angle attachment for your drill.
Or, what also works, is a small metal chisel and a small hammer, and start tapping around the flat edge of the shear pin as far off center as it still bites, and start turning it out (ccw). It might be cheapest, before you run out and buy a right angle air drill and air compressor! And it almost as fast. Hopefully, broken loose, you can just thread it out by hand after that.
I realize that's incomplete, and there are no photos.
But yeah, you can figure it out.
By the way, are you *sure* it's 2 hours labor? It only takes us 30 minutes. I'm not flat rate yet, so I have not paid attention to labor times on this job...
And, what the hell is the bracket kit? The shear pins are always included with the lock cylinder if I recall correctly. There's no bracket you should have to service. For that matter, if you don't care, why get shear pins? Just match the thread at home depot and get something more serviceable. Note, that the shear pins shear at a fairly low torque, so remember not to overtighten a regular bolt. And note, that your car is easier to steal now. I think that's a main reason for the shear pins. But you don't need to have them, and I don't know how many thieves are drooling over a 2004 S40 on the off chance that having removed the steering column trim, they might find regular bolts in your car of all cars!
Also, and again I'm trying to remember as i only did one or two and it's been a few months, but I want to say that the metal part of the key can just be transferred over to the plastic fob that contains the computer chip? Pop off the back of the key with a tiny screwdriver, and probably disassembles with tiny torx. I don't think you need to reprogram keys when you do ignition cylinders, in fact, I'm almost certain of it. If you've now got a new cut pattern on your new key teeth with your new lock cylinder, just transfer the new key teeth to the old fobs.
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