signs and symptoms of possible cracked head

anthonyhicks · Post by **anthonyhicks** » 14 Jan 2012, 14:48

2003 2.4 s60T 103k miles. I have developed a slow coolant leak and a few weeks later my car shut off while parked and idling. The next day on my way to work there was a compression released steam burst under my hood on the passenger side. After I got off work the car started fine and had no abnormalities and then the oil temperature gauge began heating up to the extremes; the computer screen read " No Oil Compression" & "Low Oil". I fear the worst.

anthonyhicks · Post by **anthonyhicks** » 14 Jan 2012, 17:22

I checked under oil cap and oil dipstick and there are no signs of residue. Radiator coolant is completely empty after filling yesterday before driving home.

Post by **JRL** » 14 Jan 2012, 18:56

C'mon you know the drill, fill it and do a pressure test

Post by **precopster** » 14 Jan 2012, 20:48

A blown head gasket, or even a hole b/w cooling area of the transmission oil cooler and engine coolant can behave the same way until you investigate further.

Have you some basic tools for testing the engine?

anthonyhicks · Post by **anthonyhicks** » 15 Jan 2012, 16:57

If I knew "the drill" i wouldn't be seeking assistance.. This is my first car, I am a mechanically inclined intuitive college student so if its possible to perform the Pressure Test with standard tools that'd be awesome! Thanks guys

Post by **precopster** » 15 Jan 2012, 17:49

Are you sure you have an oil temperature guage, perhaps you mean coolant temperature?

You may need a coolant contamination testing kit to see if burned gases are escaping past your head gasket and into the coolant.

These kits may be called a Combustion Leak Detector. It consists of a blue fluid in a glass beaker which turns green when contaminated.

Otherwise check for water in oil, dipstick etc. You may have a coolant in oil breach or a gases in coolant breach.

When the engine is running can you see many bubbles in the overflow tank?

anthonyhicks · Post by **anthonyhicks** » 19 Jan 2012, 00:27

Can somebody tell me how these prices sound.. head resurface $200 gasket kit $200 water pump $50 timing belt kit $150 and labor costs $350... also any recommended sites to buy parts

tjf · Post by **tjf** » 20 Jan 2012, 05:50

You can fit my mechanical abilities in a shot glass, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

I would be surprised if your engine was otherwise operating without abnormalities with a cracked head or blown head gasket. I did that on an old Fiat in college (caused by a rotten water pump and apparently significant overheating) and when I tried to start it up, it was like a bucking bronco (of course, the gasket was not only blown, the head was warped).

Good luck.

Sorry, I missed your last post. I assume from the pice quote that the head is shot?

Post by **precopster** » 20 Jan 2012, 06:28

Better to get a Clearwater Head which has new stem seals, resurfaced/new valve seats, possibly some new guides and possibly some new valves as well as valves/seats being lapped in.

I just got a head machined/STRAIGHTENED for $160, but the machinist asked me how I was going to handle the NOW out of alignment valve to seat surface after re-straightening. So I let him remachine the valve seat angle to match the valve guides and put in the new stem seals that I supplied. I'm now parting with $600.

If your head was badly bent & requires re-straightening this is what you face. If it's just a light skim that it needs you should be fine but should be cheaper than $160

draser · Post by **draser** » 20 Jan 2012, 17:12

Before spending the money I'd do some testing, like suggested, any shop should be able to do compression and rad pressure. A warped head is usually the result of overheat, so since you experienced that then it's posssible. Depending on the severity of the overheat the block may be warped as well. You may fail a compression test and decide to have the head removed. Then you may find that both the head and block deck are warped. Or you may get lucky and have just a blown head gasket, hard to say. If you do the work yourself it's just wasted time, otherwise the shops will charge you good money. Can you id where that puff of compression came from?