Like splicing into dash light switch wires to add power to a boost gauge, etc?
For that I cut existing wires, stripped off the ends, spliced in the wire going to the gauge, then finished it with one of those wire nuts (small).
Questions: What should I buy (tool + connectors) to do this sort of thing regularly? Was the wire nut a bad choice? I usually see those in home 120v applications.
What kit should I buy for doing car electric work?
- matthew1
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What kit should I buy for doing car electric work?
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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fazool
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Wire nuts are not really the best choice. They are relatively large and clunky and you have to twist the wires from the same direction (which pulls them tighter).
If you have a snug wire and cut it, then resolder or splice it in line you dont lose much. If you have to turn one cut end around to twist the same direction as another you lose length.
For auto applications and max reliability, I prefer to solder my connections. Get a GOOD quality pencil soldering iron. Use GOOD quality electrical tape. ANother option is crimp in place connectors like these:
http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/cgi- ... _ETC110x25
You also want some extra paired wiring and test clips. A cheap voltmeter. Shrink tubing.
If you have a snug wire and cut it, then resolder or splice it in line you dont lose much. If you have to turn one cut end around to twist the same direction as another you lose length.
For auto applications and max reliability, I prefer to solder my connections. Get a GOOD quality pencil soldering iron. Use GOOD quality electrical tape. ANother option is crimp in place connectors like these:
http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/cgi- ... _ETC110x25
You also want some extra paired wiring and test clips. A cheap voltmeter. Shrink tubing.
2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
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Jack Rock
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I would only use these for non-essential things like radios and gauges but they are really fast, easy and not too bulky.
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1997 850 T5 (gave up at 324,000km)
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
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D_V_ENT850R
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^^^^^^ we call those comeback clips. Those are fast but if your not careful it can cut the wire cause excess resistance and in some cases cut through the wire! If anything just use regular butt connectors heat shrink tubing will make it more permanent! They do make heat shrink butt connectors! But nothing is better than soldering the wires and covering with heat shrink! Just depends on how you would rather do it, half assed or good! The next person that works on it will comment on the repair either way....... Just my thoughts but yes I have all the tools to do it properly. If you are going to maybe need to change something out later butt connectors without heat shrink is easier to clip and reconnect! If I think I may need to get back in there for something I would put some extra length of wire in there for further use! My $.02!!
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