My morning disaster - how done am I?

[LamboSE5]

1) this is the tensioner and pulley right?http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-e ... 30638277-1
2) Hmm
3) if I'm buying a new head, I don't need new valve stem seals do I? Thought all that was part of the head. I don't see any brand other than Reinz and Elring (no OEM).
4) I'll find it, thanks
5) Ok.
6) Little tiny squirt of PBblaster on the head bolts maybe? I think my breaker bar is 16" to 18" long. I'll look for a cheap (stanley is what I have now) impact socket/set for that thanks.

I wish I wasn't also having to fix up this other T5, it's eating my time, and money too.

Off to call FCP after B-fast

[erikv11]

(1) That is just the pulley. I don't know if your car has mechanical or hydraulic tensioner. Maybe you want this kit http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... it252wp-oe
or here is a smaller one that makes it easy to see the tensioner http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... kit252-oem

(3) On the head, if you are getting a rebuilt from somewhere you are good, right. I thought you were going to reman the one in there now sorry.

(6) I would probably try the Stanley you have now, if it isn't heavily used and stretched out or beat up. Wait til you get in there to see if it works.

[LamboSE5]

1) It has mechanical tensioner. Engine serial number is 1347790 (off timing belt cover)
Guy at FCP said that the tensioner pulley IS the idler roller...So.. I just need the tensioner, and that idler pulley/roller, like in the kit. I guess.
3) Ok cool, no worries.

6) Ok, I'll just wait till I'm in there.

There's an impact wrench (electric) on sale at can.tire. do I need to remove an axle (axle nut)? Maybe I should get it.
FCP was very helpful on the phone, I have to make my order later.

I'm also trying to figure out my best option for heating the garage for this job. Thinking I might rent a propane heater. It's $20 a day, plus propane - which will last about 20-24 hours depending on the outside temp. I have to do my best to seal up the garage vents a bit as well. (maybe not too much - those heaters produce Co2, don't they? Don't wanna get poisoned - hah).

[rspi]

I usually heat the garage with another car. If you pull a car in the garage that is warmed up, it will heat the garage up about 30 degrees for around 3 hours. You may want to consider using a kerosene heater that people purchase for homes. I had one for a while and it will run about a week on 5 gallons of kerosene.



I thought all of the '98's had the hydraulic tensioner. I guess everything prior does. Our '98 had the hydraulic tensioner.

I usually don't replace water pumps that are not leaking.

[LamboSE5]

I was thinking this propane heater: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3 ... ?locale=en

Hydraulic tensioner is better, no?...easier?

I read through the whole head gasket tutorial by tracys soaps last night. Now, I'm feeling more intimidated.

-Do I have to take the harmonic balancer off? (and that's not the "crank pulley" is it? Seems like it's only done to change the oil pump gasket(s) and crankshaft seal. Is that all necessary?

-I got to the part where he gets reallly detailed into the cleaning of he whole engine block and thought "wow". I don't know how comfortable I am with getting engine degreaser and diesel in every orifice of the engine and then drying it out or whatever, you know? Is this necessary as well? I mean I know I have to clean off old gasket, and I guess cleaning out the head bolt holes would be a good Idea. It's all a good Idea.. but - "do I gotta"? I was just thinking degrease/gasket remover for the block surface. Hah..... 

[rspi]

I would not take the crank off unless you see an oil leak there. I also would do a little cleaning but not to much. Just make sure you get that old head gasket off without scratching the block.

[rmorse]

FWIW, my 98 V70 N/A does not have the hydraulic tensioner, but my 96 855R does.

[LamboSE5]

Well, I'm getting led astray now completely.

Where I thought I was going to be able to get a head, remanufactured & planed, ready to go, was BS.

There is used heads there, and one on kijiji. The shop that was supposed to have had his 'imaginary' head for me also just told me that it's $50 a valve (exhaust) valve, and that I'd need all (10) and that "that's $500 right there"...!
I'm trying to think what I can do now...engine swap, s**t.

Vance Hanes didn't have any heads, OR engines for me - redone or otherwise.

I guess my options are:

-Try to locate an engine to swap in
-Try and take the head off mine and redo it (?harder than just a head swap?), have it planed and throw it back on. I duno if that'd be cheaper, the same, or more expensive than buying a reconditioned head that's ready to go?

I was told the ready to go, planed head I was SUPPOSED to be getting was gonna be $500. But it doesn't exist now.

That's about 'clearwater' price - right? Except I duno where clearwater is...and shipping a 50-60 head would be pretty expensive right.

I'm getting tired of people telling me one thing, and it being completely the opposite. (not here on MVS - to be clear)

WTH am I gonna do, I don't know.

EDIT: Last time I called clearwater (when I first put this thread up) they told me I needed to give them this number off the block, which I didn't find near the exhaust mani. they said it might be ON the block itself - i.e.: under the head on the block surface. Can anybody with a similar Car/Engine that knows theirs just give me that number so I could get an estimate and some information from these guys. I understand if you don't want to. Mine is a 1998 S70 SE5 (T5) SE, with engine B5234T3 (T3 right, not T6), engine serial number is: 1347790. I'd really appreciate it.
I'm running out of viable options, and time.

Thanks

[erikv11]

Try Clearwater Cylinder heads out of Florida. Nothing but good reviews from people on this site.

[LamboSE5]

So,

I called the machine shop here, who apparently do top notch work, just now - and gave brief explanation of what I needed. He said around 400-500 bucks. But didn't know if he could get the parts (valves). So, I'd have to get them from FCP for about $20-22 each and that's assuming its just exhaust valves I'd need...for 10 it would be about $200, on top of the work I guess. So maybe clearwater is the better option. I was a little surprised, I thought it would be more like 200-300 for the work...including valves. But what do I know.
I just thought I recalled threads where people took off their head, brought it to a machine shop and had everything fixed, planed, and leak down test done, etc.. for around $200.

I called clearwater again, they asked for that number engine # or stamp number which apparently is near(?) the exhaust manifold, "below the cover lip", and/or somewhere near the intake manifold. They said it should be 7-9 digits and start with "100..xxxx".

I took out the mirror, and lit up the engine bay. I didn't see any numbers on the back of the engine, around the exhaust manifold/turbo flange (I don't think anyway). I did see the one on the fuel rail... but, I don't think that's it. Is it the "Engine Serial Number" they're looking for I wonder. I have that, and it's 7 digits long - but found on the timing belt cover as I'm sure you know

EDIT: I just called clearwater again... The guy said it's the "Cylinder Head Casting Number" that he needs. Then engine serial number and the VIN number aren't useful to them. He said it's usually on the exhaust manifold side of the head.
Duno how I'm gonna find this... maybe I'll have to get into the head removal before I can even see the friggin' thing .... Which I'm starting tomorrow.

Thanks for any suggestions..or pics/description of where I need to be looking.