Wiper Linkage Adjustment (write-up on p 2)

[holler1]

Try Advance Auto, another auto store or Sears and get a metric tap and die kit with several sizes. I think you can get one for around $20-30 with 4 or 5 sizes. Use the next smallest one and a nut to match.

If the post is really worn, too much to use a die on, a helicoil might work if you can find the right size. Usually the helicoils are used in a threaded hole, but they have threads on inside and outside and they are pretty much self threading. I know auto stores have them in spark plug sizes. If there is a "fastener" store like Fastenal, they might have smaller sizes. I researched this when I had to put a spark plug insert in my Ford truck engine.

[MadeInJapan]

Thanks but I called around today and ended up buying the "transmission" or wiper "linkage" out of an wrecked 850, so I'm in for a swap. I think it will be much better. It was pouring rain- would have been cheaper for me to go out to the yard and pull it myself but for $40 they did the work for me. Let's hope that everything is in order and this swap goes without a hitch. Just checking email, etc. and I'll get started on this in the next little bit and hopefully get things completed soon too. I'll report back as to how things went.

[JRL]

Well, I guess it did become dreaded after all!

[MadeInJapan]

3 hours- the transmission has been in and out of the car 3 times- it is out of whack...wants to go down and not up and I've followed VAdis instructions on adjusting them. I need help- Highly Frustrated... S..O...S.... HELP!!!!

[MadeInJapan]

Well, it's back together...had major problems with just about all parts of this job... I think VADIS instructions are wrong.
Anyway, if you turn the wipers off, they park at the top of the arch. If you make that the bottom, the wipers want to go backwards. The contraption is too strange to make sense to me, so at least my son has wipers that work. If he wants them parked at the bottom, he'll have to turn the engine off when the wipers hit the bottom. Some day we may correct this issue, when we figure out how to. I did a search on this "adjustment" and all I can find is bending the arm to make better contact for the wiper blades, etc.

[MadeInJapan]

The more I think about this, I should fix this right (again) this weekend.
Does anyone have any ideas on how?
I though the motor wasn't in the "stop" position, so the last thing I did was hook it back up and just let it run a few times before I attached the linkage (transmission) to it again... I followed the VADIS instructions on "If the arms are out of position" after this, and that's how I ended up with the mess I posted above.

[MadeInJapan]

I'm still looking for answers.
the Haynes manual does not have a diagram but it says that if a new frame and linkage (transmission) is being installed, then make it so the connecting piece to the motor and the linkage arm directly above it are parallel (after making sure the motor is in the "stop" position and then secure the connection to the motor. VADIS has a big X through a diagram showing that the above is not acceptable and is the incorrect way to install the new linkage.

Btw, every google of this issue only brings up the old driver's side wiper blade issue- not the adjustment/alignment for the linkage arms.

[MadeInJapan]

Okay folks- I'm sorry I'm the only one posting in my thread.
I can't believe this hasn't been an issue for anyone else and that someone doesn't have the "official" solution.
A diagram or pictures of the setup would be helpful (linkage arms go exactly like this when you bolt on the motor).
When I get it right, I plan on taking pictures and a description and post it up so that NO ONE has to go through what I've gone through with this- seems like such a simple thing, but a slight misalignment and wipers don't work right AT ALL.

[MadeInJapan]

I got it done- got a bit smarter this time- never installed completely and put the nuts on without the arms, and made white-out marks on them so I could see how the wipers would wipe without the unit going nutso against the windshield or flopping around and breaking something (without being fully installed). The first time, I followed the pattern from the eBay picture (as close as I could)- the arms would have gone all the way down and come up about 10degrees before parking from their pictures- so it was off (a smidgen). Next I followed the Haynes Manual instructions (the two arms closest to the motor should be parallel)- this doesn't work either- the arms park midway up...I just finagled with things myself after this until things were right. BTW, the VADIS instructions are yet different from Haynes- they have you putting the pivot point of adjoining arms at 166.1 degrees....inverted and at 167 if you have an early chassis # 850 (why this would matter, I don't know unless motors were different for these). Anyway, VADIS instructions either way were off the most- the arms would have parked at the top of their arc or would have actually traveled downward instead of up (I have the earlier chassis #), following their advise. So, I have finally figured out the configuration (at least for my car) and am uploading pictures in my next post here (soon- it will take me a few minutes). This may be worth pinning as I know no other instructions on the web for when you don't measure the linkage before you take the motor off...

[MadeInJapan]

It's been so long that I've been on here...haven't done this in such a long time but going to try to put this in the repair database.

As far as I can tell (I've searched extensively), there is no such write-up or explanation on how to adjust your wiper linkage (also known as transmission or frame) anywhere on the web. My adventure was very frustrating to say the least but finally I got things working like they should. The following is a culmination of determination, hardheadedness and refusal to give up and take it to a Volvo mechanic.

Basically, you should be careful when you pull the old Linkage out to mark it or take a picture so when you replace it, you can get things aligned right without much headache...if you screw up here, you're in the same boat as I was. Remember that with this contraption, just a little adjustment goes a long way and can mess up not only where your wiper blades will end its cycle but also the direction as to which way they will travel (my first screw up was that the wiper blades started at the bottom of the windshield and wanted to go down (not up) into the engine compartment. So you won't have to go through all of this craziness, I have written this tutorial and tips on what and what not to do. Don't fret- Below is how to get things right again:

Before you start, make sure the motor is in the "parked" or off position (arms at the base of the windshield). If you aren't sure of this (even if you've already taken the wiper arms off), connect the motor back up and turn the lever on for the windshield wipers a couple of times and to the off position before turning the key off for your car. Stopping the wipers by turning the key off DOES NOT put them in the "parked" positions. This is vitally important and something I probably did wrong my first time.

1. Forget VADIS if you have it- none of what was in VADIS worked on my 850 (although- disclaimer- it could work for your car).
2. Haynes Manual is correct but imprecise- you do have to adjust things so that the brass section connecting to the motor is "parallel" to the next linkage just above it, but they should have said that the brass portion that connects to the motor extends out from the next closest linkage arm. Don't put the section that connects to the motor under and parallel to the linkage arm above it or your wiper blades will "park" or stop on the upswing.
3. Hold the brass knob looking portion that is at the highest level with an open ended wrench (I used an adjustable- worked fine) as a counter hold while you take off the motor and when you put it back on. Sockets won't work- you need a spanner here, trust me.
4. Make sure that the linkage arm (closest to the actual turning shaft that the arm attaches to on the driver's side) conforms to the frame of the device- in other words, not jutting out in the opposite direction- this was one of my issues early on as well. Hope this makes sense.
5. You can use some thread lock on the main nut to the motor if you're worried that it might work itself loose after awhile. I would stay away from the "red," which really locks things up as you might have to make minor adjustments as you go.
6. Taking the cowl and drain hoses off is the easy part but you don't want to have to do this over and over again (like I did) until you get things right. Also, only two bolts hold the linkage frame in- one end slides into a spongy bushing- twist back and forth to get it out- no need to tug on it. A big trick for me that worked great was to put the nuts on the shaft, mark them so you can see them rotate and leave the arms off until you're sure you have things right- this way you don't have to go through doing and undoing everything over and over and you lessen your chance of screwing up things on the shaft by taking the arms on and off.
7. Take the trim piece off from under the windshield glass while you try to put the motor and linkage back in...you can always put the trim on after these are in place. I chipped mine by leaving it in place- after years of being there, this piece gets brittle. No biggie, as the view of this piece is somewhat obstructed, but still it doesn't look good when chipped and chipping it causes grown men to curse.
8. Put the passenger side wiper arm first (leave the driver's side off) and turn the motor on and make adjustments. When things are right, then stop the wiper motor by turning the car key off with the wiper blade at the very top of its arch. Then attach the driver's side wiper arm with the edge about 1/2 inch from the edge of the glass. Note that the driver's side wiper blade is suppose to be slightly up on the glass at the stopped/lower position compared to the passenger side.
8. Finally, three views of the Volvo 850 Wiper Linkage adjusted properly below- so that the arms park as the bottom of the windshield and go up to the top as they ought to. Note the brass pieces and how they are turned and positioned.

Here is the entire linkage w/ frame- notice the arm link at the far right...it conforms to the frame,not jutting out on top.

Closer view of the connections you have to undo and put back together. (btw, I have no idea about the white dot- means nothing)

Notice the alignment of the brass pieces with the longer arms...this is vitally important