After a false start which wasted some time I was finally able to get the bolts out and the caliper loose. However, I couldn't pull the caliper off easily, I think because there is a nice rim on the rotor (Which is why I'm replacing them) that the pad catches on. Since the sun was going down and it was getting colder, I called it a day. I'm going to try again tomorrow, but the the question is: I should be able to insert a flat head in between the rotor and the pad and compress the piston back enough so I can pull the caliper off correct?
Thanks,
JP
'07 S60 - Advice for Replacing Brakes
- regent
- Posts: 1319
- Joined: 22 February 2010
- Year and Model: 2015 XC60 T5
- Location: Under the Hood
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Correct.
Rims are the result of normal rotor wear because the pad does not ride all the way to the perifery of the rotor.\
When using the "Poor Man's Piston Compressor Toolset", flathead screwdrivers that is, please make sure that you apply even force to avoid wedging the piston against the caliper. I use two screwdrivers and patiently pry with equal force on both sides of the same brake pad (usually the outboard). This method should only be used when you are replacing the pads AND the rotors (there will be some indentations on its braking surfaces from the screwdriver which may render it unusable).
You may have to retract the pistons even further when time to insert the new pads comes. They will be way thicker than the old ones
And you won't forget to have that coat hanger ready when you disengage the caliper, right?
Rims are the result of normal rotor wear because the pad does not ride all the way to the perifery of the rotor.\
When using the "Poor Man's Piston Compressor Toolset", flathead screwdrivers that is, please make sure that you apply even force to avoid wedging the piston against the caliper. I use two screwdrivers and patiently pry with equal force on both sides of the same brake pad (usually the outboard). This method should only be used when you are replacing the pads AND the rotors (there will be some indentations on its braking surfaces from the screwdriver which may render it unusable).
You may have to retract the pistons even further when time to insert the new pads comes. They will be way thicker than the old ones
And you won't forget to have that coat hanger ready when you disengage the caliper, right?
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that
2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired
1987 340 DL - retired
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michaelbrooks
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 13 February 2012
- Year and Model: 01 V70 T5
- Location: United States
Thanks to all for the info in this thread so far. I'm hoping to change the rear pads on my 01 V70. Is there anything different from what has been posted here?
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fazool
- Posts: 746
- Joined: 6 February 2010
- Year and Model: S60, 2007
- Location: buffalo, NY
- Been thanked: 7 times
Coincidentally, I also have a 2001 (an S60 not a V70) but between 2007 and 2001 everything is identical (at least from S60 to S60).
2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)
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