Code Errors after Timing belt change ---Are they related?

[regent]

Our engines are interference type, and timing is critical. I think that if your timing is off, the offset is going to be off by just one tooth. Anything greater than that would be difficult to imagine (that is probably why your Mech said 'that the engine would not run with incorrect timing' -- he had in mind drastical offset, like by several teeth). I would not say anything conclusive about your engine (like having been damaged or not) at this point without knowing the exact condition of your timing gear.

It appears that your belt has a mechanical type tensioner that requires very careful and precise adjustment of the force that keeps the belt tight, which is best carried out at ambient temperature of 20 degrees Celsius (or 68F). It is sometimes possible to overlook this step (nobody is perfect), and as a result the belt could become loose thus allowing the engine to 'jump time'.

But like I said, this is only a speculation, and the real picture will be revealed under the timing belt cover.

You may want to review the attached procedure to get an idea of what this is about, and to know what to watch for while the inspection is being done. Especially the step "Check. Checking The Markings"

[rmmagow]

Seriously, you need to bite the bullet and bring it to Volvo or trade it in. This mechanic of yours sounds like a hack and will do more damage than good to the car. I see you are in MA, DALZELL Brothers in Foxboro on Rt1 just a little south of the football stadium. They are extremely good and fair. I have used them in the past with 100% satisfaction. If you want to trek to RI, there's a place called The Car Emporium in Warwick RI, top shelf Volvo mechanics. Although I do as much of my own work as I can I would trust my car to either of these shops. I also have an independent mechanic that I've used twice this month, timing belt and axle removal. He's also in RI but he might be a little hard to schedule. If you're interested I can provide contact info. The other two, however, can be found on the Internet and you can talk to them directly. you really need to have the car professionally examined by Volvo people.

[rmmagow]

Sorry, forgot to mention, do not confuse Dalzell Brothers in Foxboro with Dalzell Volvo near Boston. Dalzell Volvo does not have a very good rep. Dalzell Brothers is a seperate entity altogether.

[Bibicha]

Our engines are interference type, and timing is critical. I think that if your timing is off, the offset is going to be off by just one tooth. Anything greater than that would be difficult to imagine (that is probably why your Mech said 'that the engine would not run with incorrect timing' -- he had in mind drastical offset, like by several teeth). I would not say anything conclusive about your engine (like having been damaged or not) at this point without knowing the exact condition of your timing gear.

It appears that your belt has a mechanical type tensioner that requires very careful and precise adjustment of the force that keeps the belt tight, which is best carried out at ambient temperature of 20 degrees Celsius (or 68F). It is sometimes possible to overlook this step (nobody is perfect), and as a result the belt could become loose thus allowing the engine to 'jump time'.

But like I said, this is only a speculation, and the real picture will be revealed under the timing belt cover.

You may want to review the attached procedure to get an idea of what this is about, and to know what to watch for while the inspection is being done. Especially the step "Check. Checking The Markings"

Thank you Regent for explaining the stuff for me. I now get it better. I have to see the timing belt and how it became after the 1700 or so miles driving the car. This will show me the damage and also how much it is off, by one or two teethes.

My plan is to tell him to fix it and if he refuses, then I have to get a mechanic to take the pictures.

I am suspecting that if he said that the car won't run, he wants to deny the whole thing. Because when I asked him why I got the misfire of cylinders code (the day after I picked up my car after the timing belt change), he replied that he didn't know. When in fact, it's obvious it is the timing belt that is offset.

I really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this.
Thank you so much

[Bibicha]

Thanks Rmmagow for your ideas and feedback.
I would like to have your mechanic's phone number. The 3 locations are not convenient for me at all since I live in Malden MA. But I need to unclog the breather box so I will use one of them. May be if I go there for the day, I can manage. But I cant leave my car and come back.

Trading the car is oput of the question since I was laid off and now just tutoring a few hours a week (not even making my living expenses). I decided to spend the money on the car, since I can't a cheap reliable car without the headache of repairs. So unfortunately, I have to stick to it for now until I figure it all out.

If he refuse to fix, I am going to invest in taking the pictures and report him.

Thanks so much

[Rustypig]

With those two codes, I highly suspect the variable valve timing is not set correctly. It the timing belt/gears were way off it would have eaten intake valves as soon as it was started the first time. It's very easy to not set the VVT right if following the guide out of a repair manual (kind of confusing). Bottom line is that with the timing marks all aligned correctly...loosen the three outer bolts to the VVT cam wheel and turn the center torque nut fully clockwise as far as it will go and tighten the outer nuts while holding it. That should make the timing codes go away...not sure on the STC issue though.