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Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Delta Link Repair DIY
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MadeInJapan
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Re: Rear End Suspension Link Replacement

Post by MadeInJapan »

Part ordered and the sound is getting worse- just waiting for some free time and some warmer, non-rainy weather.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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LamboSE5
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Post by LamboSE5 »

I wish I still had pictures of when I did this job. I had to return the macbook pro they were on and I couldn't save them.

I followed Lee's original instructions, plus his answers to my questions. I drilled a few holes, heated...heated more, then broke out the mini sledge - 6.4 lb or something like that and struck it a few times from one side, then the other. It took a while.

Reason I'm back here now is, I'd like to take them out - without damaging them this time though - to put in my new S70. That means I can't drill and heat them :D , or whack them quite as hard (though the old ones stood up to some punishment last time).

So, aside from unbolting them, using my best spray lubricant and trying to tap tap one side, tap tap the other side, and repeat until they're out (should that ever happen), what else do you think?
I can't find or figure out a puller tool that would be suitable for this application. I've found lots of threads where people are looking for one though :wink:

Maybe, find a machine shop and ask them "hey can you make me a puller tool like this one", and show'em the picture of the actual tool...?
If I do end up checking that out, I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Until then, I'd love any suggestions on how to get them out without damaging them. :mrgreen:

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

I have not done the job yet- took my car to a friend mechanic last week to get him to eye-ball the job.
He put a pry bar under each side of the delta link and both of them move about an equal amount...up and down, about an inch. He's not convinced that this is the issue. How much should they move? I have only popping sounds over subtle dibs in the road, or small pot holes and some creaking on that side (rear of the car) and we can't figure out anywhere else the annoying sound would be coming from. Any takers?
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

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LamboSE5
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Post by LamboSE5 »

When mine were (both) shot, one much worse than the other, it consistently made a knocking around noise, and contributed to this feeling of drifting or swaying from side to side while doing 50km/h or more (along with bad control arms.

They're moving up and down within the.."socket", or do you mean the whole transverse arm on that the side being pried moves up?
-Transverse arm bushing/mount?

Here's how I decided to get my delta links out without damaging them, and also - at the same time - be prepared to fix my mishap where I twisted of the lower shock mount bolt by replacing the transverse arm:
IMG_2279.JPG
Plus, I can do the transverse arm bushings/mounts at that time too.
Don't be too jealous of my "work table" :D

delquattro
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Post by delquattro »

My girlfriend, Kristen, is out of town for her daughter's volleyball tournament, and so, I took advantage of the freedom to change my end links, today. I no longer fear replacing end links, but I had hoped to be able to change the bushings at the other end of the Delta arm.

I began as Grendel suggests by drilling into the rubber, but I got real lucky. I did my work in a friends garage, and I found a home made open end wrench made of 1/4" steel, with an approximate size of 1 13/16 (It appears to have been cut out free hand.) I slipped it in between the steel yoke and the the rubber of the bushing with a down ward twist. Then I smacked it with a mini sledge. The end link came out in three blows.
Home made wrench that I discovered at my buddy's garage.
Home made wrench that I discovered at my buddy's garage.
Since the home made wrench worked so well I looked forward to seeing if it would make the install easier. It didn't at first. I managed to wedge a piece of 2x4 in between the frame and the Delta arm. With the arm in a more favorable angle, the end link was inserted with less than ten blows of the hand sledge. I alternated blows to each side of the hand made wrench and walked the bushing into the Delta arm.

I changed the fuel filter while the bracket was loose. This is the easiest and most pleasant fuel filter replacement that I have ever done! You gotta love Volvo engineers! Since the car had been sitting while I worked on the bushing, a little bit of fuel got my hand wet when I pulled off the first fuel line.

After discovering how helpful the home made wrench was, I attempted to replace the driver's side end link without drilling. After drilling, as I had done on the other side, the home made wrench seemed to have lost its magic. That is until I squirted some oil in between the Delta arm and the rubber bushing. Then it came out in around ten blows of the hand sledge.

I started at 1 pm, and finished the passenger side by 4pm. I started the driver's side at 4:30pm and finished before 6pm.
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1998 Cassis C70 2.3L T3 auto 131k

vjaneczko
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Post by vjaneczko »

Checkout this post, where you can borrow the Volvo tool:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =7&t=46417
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woolshire
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Year and Model: C70 HPT Vert 2002
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Post by woolshire »

I started this job today and am running into an issue with the main bolt that holds the fat end of the link onto the body. I can get it halfway out easily, but then it stops. I have PB Blasted the hell out of it, let an impact beat on it and put 240 ft-lbs of torque on it (probably lucky it didn't break already).
Anyone have any ideas what I may be running into? Could it be getting bound, or ???? I have screwed it back in for now...any suggestions would be appreciated.

mtd240
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Post by mtd240 »

Where is the best place to put the jackstands while you do this?

Also - I went ahead and purchased the Volvo tool to do this job. When I am done with it, I think I will start up a thread on here where we can just "sell it" to each other over and over. The other "rental" thread ended with someone not returning the tool - so perhaps just buying/reselling is the best way to get it around. That way, we end up paying $15 to use it :)
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

mtd240 wrote:Where is the best place to put the jackstands while you do this?
Are there photos showing jack stand placement mtd240?

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Post by matthew1 »

Tool Sharing page is up, https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/mvs-to ... ng-program and the delta link tool is available.
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