This chick wanted a nice car and.... Well read more...

chipmunkbug · Post by **chipmunkbug** » 25 Feb 2012, 20:24

So I've always loved the Volvo s80's. I'm a college student,full time mom, full time employee and figured, "What the hell, I want to buy the car I've always liked." With all of that being said, I'm sure one can gather that I do not have a lot of money to blow on a car, nor do I have the monthly income to screw myself with a monthly car note. Anyhow, last week I bought a 2000 Volvo S80 2.9 with little knowledge on just how many problems this car has given people. (Now I know.

) I noticed AFTER I drove the car home that the transmission is stuck in 2nd or 3rd hear. Wtf? So I take it to rinky dink Advanced Auto to get a scan and it gives me the ever so popular P0751 and p1618. I have pretty much spent all of my free time researching both or these and have stumbled upon this conclusion:

P0751 = TCM-000B Aka Shift Solenoid S1 - Hydraulic Fault
P1618 = ECM-530D Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in another control module
ECM-530D Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the transmission control module (TCM). Faulty signal
ECM-530D Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in transmission control module (TCM). Faulty signal
ECM-530D Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), transmission control module (TCM). Faulty signal
ECM-530D Speed signal. Signal too low

SOME INFORMATION:
Ok, so from all of this information I have gathered via this website among many others, including loosely translated websites via google, I am on the path of electrical repairs BEFORE any transmission repairs. This car was impounded. The people who had it left the key in the ignition with the switch on until the guy came to tow it. This uninformed tow man jumped the car off of the battery in the trunk. (I've heard that is a no-no.) The battery looks as though it has a watery substance on the top. (I'm a bit scared to touch it.) There is a loose piece of plastic in the steering wheel that catches sometimes when turning- preventing the wheel from turning farther or straightening out. The battery will not hold a charge. It's stuck in limp home mode. The ETM could need cleaning/replacing. I tried to change the tranny fluid by myself, but I am a girl and need a man's help. I've heard tranny flushes could harm your tranny. Is this true or should I just take the damn thing to get it flushed? Maybe that will help with the TCM 000B? And I am sure this car needs some code resetting.
I just don't want to get screwed by some mechanic who makes $85 an hour to babble lies into my ear. And oh, they will do it all day to a female. So gentlemen, please be of some assistance to a somewhat mechanically savvy chick. I just want to know if the TCM-000B is a hydraulic fault, could that be caused from an electrical issue or could it be fixed with a fluid change/flush? Could this all be caused from the ETM? Could I just be over analyzing all of this information? Any help is appreciated.

chipmunkbug

Post by **fazool** » 25 Feb 2012, 21:06

Im not able to give you particulars - my expertise is not that model but what I *can* tell you is what you don't want to hear. The early model S80's are notorious lemons.

Flushing the tranny fluid wont clear the code for you.

I think any battery issues are likely unrelated.

How long have you had this car? I know in NY State you can return any purchase withing 3 days

Post by **dcarlson12** » 26 Feb 2012, 16:11

If you can't return it for refund, try to at least get all the codes cleared and see which if any come back and go from there. Possibly at an independent shop who specializes in Volvos.

Post by **xHeart** » 26 Feb 2012, 17:37

First item is battery and alternator resolution. If this car is drivable, stop by at the local WALMart. OR...
Start the car take the battery terminals out:
- if car stays idling, then your alternator is OK. Replace the battery.
- if the car shuts down, the alternator need repair.

Eliminate one item at a time, you will see the daylight.

chipmunkbug · Post by **chipmunkbug** » 27 Feb 2012, 12:47

So just to give an update, I found a transmission shop that is going to check the car out for me. I dropped it off today and they will let me know the outcome on Wednesday.
I should have done more research before buying this car. I was mainly looking at the MPG and safety aspects of the car. I'm hoping that the problem is something electrical and NOT a transmission problem EVEN THOUGH THIS MODEL IS NOTORIOUS FOR TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS. My fingers are crossed.
I will keep you guys updated. Who knows, maybe this information will help someone else out.
Thanks for all of the replies!

Post by **dcarlson12** » 27 Feb 2012, 14:09

I may be wrong but I don't believe you should do what XHeart has suggested. I believe removing any battery terminal from a running vehicle will cause the alternator to fry itself because it's voltage will go HIGH. Other electrical gurus can chime in hear. When we purchased a low mileage 97 850, the one battery clamp was loose and I didn't realizie that this would cause problems. When we reached our home after driving the vehicle for about a half hour from the previous owner's location, the alternator was literally smoking from the stator coils being so hot. The alternator died soon after. i.e. don't want infinite or near infinite resistance between the battery cables/alternator output.

Post by **regent** » 27 Feb 2012, 14:40

Never disconnect the battery on a running engine, (unless it is a model year before 1960...)
There are lots of bad things that can happen due to a voltage spike in such a complex electronic system.

The proper functional test of the charging system involves a meter.
Shortcuts usually cost more (been there...)

chipmunkbug · Post by **chipmunkbug** » 27 Feb 2012, 15:00

To be honest, I wasn't going to try that. Thanks for the reply, but I don't want anything else messing up! I'm slowly finding out how dishonest people can be and may I say, it's sad.
I did however check on the lemon laws in Georgia and the Lemon Law only applies to New vehicles with New on the title. (Mine is a used.

)

My main concern is figuring out why the car is in limp mode. I've called numerous Transmission Specialists only to hear them tell me that I have to bring the car in for testing. What is so hard about someone telling me why a car goes into limp mode and what possible ELECTRICAL components can send the car into limp mode? Everyone seems to want to make that extra dollar. I've been thinking about taking a Auto Mechanics class after investing in this vehicle. Wouldn't that be snazzy?

xD

Post by **regent** » 27 Feb 2012, 15:20

The "limp home mode" can be triggered in instances where a safety critical componenent is at fault. This is a system protection feature that will supposedly prevent further damage or an accident. A failed transmission as well as a faulty ETM can be the culprit but it is not always possible to pinpoint without closely inspecting the car and pulling the codes. It is like a flow chart with many diverging points, and nobody would risk making an assumption with this many unknown variables.
It is best to leave it to someone you trust.

chipmunkbug · Post by **chipmunkbug** » 27 Feb 2012, 17:01

I totally understand one not wanting to make assumptions and that many components are involved, but my question is:

What all electrical and mechanical components can make a car go into limp home mode?
Can the ETM send the car into limp home mode?
Can a sensor send the car into limp home mode?

The codes are stated above. I will know Wednesday if there are more or if they are different.

I can't ask the right questions without background knowledge of auto mechanics, but I am xxxx good at piecing puzzles together. Does someone have a chart of all components electrical and mechanical that effect the limp home mode engagement?
I know I ask a lot of questions, but those who never ask will never know! Thanks so much guys!