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Questions on 2001 transmission failure (planning ahead!)

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
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This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Questions on 2001 Transmission Failure
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fazool
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Re: Questions on 2001 transmission failure (planning ahead!)

Post by fazool »

jda2000 wrote:so, if you haven't refreshed the fluid yet then do a drain and refill x3, 200 miles apart that will refresh your fluid about 95%.

Add a magnefine tranny filter to collect those pesky metal shavings and you should be good for another 30k miles. Then repeat the process.

I thought there was no filter in these trannies. WHere does the magnifine get installed?

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Post by jblackburn »

You would splice it into the lower transmission line.
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Post by JRL »

I wouldn't touch the damn thing!
If you have gone 145K and it's perfect, knock on wood, leave it alone.
You're in the 5%'ile DON'T TOUCH IT!
You flush it or do drain and fills and you know DARN WELL it will fail right afterwards.
Drive it until it blows up, it may never do so.
This is that rare time I would say "let it be", let sleeping dogs lie
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Post by fazool »

JRL wrote:You're in the 5%'ile
I think you're right:

I did some reading on (previously linked) Howard's Volvo Page and found that the transmissions with the B4 solenoid cover failures are within (chassis) serial number range 036000-to-067100. Mine is remarkably close and just outside (newer) than this range so I have one of the first cars "cured" of that problem :o

So....maybe I got lucky all around.

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Post by xHeart »

The English translation would be like this, do not D&F if last 6 digits of VIN# is less that 067100, and higher than 036000. Yes?
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Post by fazool »

Well, I'm not sure about D&F advice in particular, but one common design flaw was a washer breaking loose under the B4 solenoid. Apparently this is limited to that range of cars, meaning if your VIN is lower or higher than that range, you will not need to do the B4 solenoid cover fix.

If you are within that range and have tranny troubles, that is a quick cheap fix and should be an early effort in repairing it.

I think

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Post by regent »

It is a fix for CERTAIN troubles only (like those related with 2-3 shifr flare). There are quite a few other 'bugs' that the B4 Servo Cover Update by itself won't cure, and it is great that you do not have any of those.

I am glad to hear about another flawless Aisin 5-speed transmission in existence (like mine '02) :D
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Post by Marcobrick »

By all means stay away from a power flush machine but if your fluid looks ok now, I would start on a replacement cycle. Tranny fluid has a finite life despite what manufacturers would want you to believe. Some of you speak about your transmissions as if they are sentient beings just waiting to stick a knife in your back if you screw with their nice dirty fluid. Never seen evidence of this myself. I have flushed an AW30-40 that has never been touched in 410,000km and I can tell you she really appreciated it!
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Post by xHeart »

A follow up to Fazool's post, within the chassis range, the first 3 digits of the serial number on the affected transmissions are between 01C (March 2001) and 01L (December 2001).

IPD suggests a software update (regent noted above) before replacing the B4 Servo Cover. Does this replacement remedy the design flaw you point to Fazool?
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Post by MoVolvos »

DYI Flush
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... php?t=8767

Machine Flush


If the transmission is not having any problems then the first thing to look at is the color and smell. If the color and smell is OK then the transmission is a candidate for the DYI or Machine Flush that uses the cars pressure to circulate fluid. There are perhaps machines that use added pressure for flushes but it may not be likely as it is obvious to a Manufacturer that added pressure can move potentially very dirty debris in a badly worn transmission and circulating it causing more problems. Assuming both method above only use the vehicle's own pressure either should be fine.

Transmission fluid is high in detergent and like kerosene and diesel has been used as a flush though not close to the effectiveness of the later two. I have seen diesel used as a flush and heard of transmission fluid as hand cleaner by old timers.
Discussion Title: Transmission Fluid to flush an engine
http://www.askautoinfo.com/discuss/clus ... age_1.html

With that said if your fluid is fairly clean you know your transmission is not wearing a flush should be OK.

I was asked by a friend to do this work last week. He was getting codes and was not able to permanently clear them. Even when the code was cleared the OBDII still did not have all green but the yellow light flashed. This is all to say that even though his fluid was pretty clean there was a build up over time (174,000 miles) and the Dealer and Transmission shops only remedy was to rebuild. He found the link below and now it is good as new so I think if you drain and fill and there is nothing on the magnet you should replace the fluids.

http://www.xayberoptix.com/images/code_ ... lenoid.jpg

http://www.xayberoptix.com/fix_code_p0740.html

Swepco's 714 Transmission Oil can be used as a substitute for engine oil and the forum above in the discussion verifies that although it needs no verification. If you put the 714 in your Volvo you can go 100,000 miles though I would look at it to see the color and smell as transmissions do fail. Brought a barely driving 88 Mazda back to life. Fix a slipping 88 Camry with 258K miles to normal driving condition and a 1995 Plymouth Caravan never gave a hiccup with it. Read the attachment on temperature drop/difference by the Tranny builder. You should be able to buy it directly but I get it from the local rep. When I was in Food Manufacturing the Stain Steel Manufacturers use to use there oil for drilling stainless for reduced bit wear and ease of cutting.

Customer Comments:
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/comments.htm
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/highperf.htm

Use 20W
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/sho ... o_pg10.htm


http://www.paragon-products.com/Swepco_ ... /sw306.htm
We've all heard of Swepco Gear Oils, they've been standard issue for Porsche since the 935 was raced. So why should you consider Swepco Motor oil? Zinc and Phosphorous are important anti-wear additives that have been drastically reduced by many of the newer SM oil formulations. These additives are crucial to the air cooled Porsche and beneficial to any car....water or air cooled. Swepco's 306 has high levels of Zinc and Phosphorus as well as including over 5 times the amount of the anti-wear additive Boron as the new reformulated SM or CJ-4 oils.

Contains DIMONYL
High VI solvent extracted paraffinic base stocks
Exceeds major engine manufacturers recommendations
Contains detergent/dispersants
Oxidation inhibitors
Rust and corrosion inhibitors
Anti-foam inhibitor
Pour depressant

Anti-wear inhibitors

Blessings,

BKM
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